LT1 Based Engine Tech 1993-1997 LT1/LT4 Engine Related

Project 383 Updates from Saturday

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Old Apr 13, 2008 | 10:20 AM
  #1  
irocbsa's Avatar
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From: Ann Arbor, MI
Project 383 Updates from Saturday

Here's an update on my 383LT1 project for anyone who is interested. I dropped the K-member for the first time. It was surprisingly easy. I'll be sticking with this method in the future. Many thanks for Eric from Victory Racing for all the support on this project!

The patient: A worn down and high mileage 94 LT1 car.


Dropping the cradle:


Old powertrain on the ground:


New engine:




Hopefully this week I will be able to get the trans separated and the flywheel turned to get it ready for a Spec 3 clutch. I'm going to have all the brackets powder coated as well and paint the engine bay black. I'll update more as I complete things.
Old Apr 13, 2008 | 12:59 PM
  #2  
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From: Cypress, TX
Originally Posted by irocbsa
Here's an update on my 383LT1 project for anyone who is interested. [snipped] I'm going to have all the brackets powder coated as well and paint the engine bay black. I'll update more as I complete things.
Help me understand - you've yanked the engine/tranny in the last
couple of days, right? And you're showing a newly built unit - I am
going to assume you've built a second engine? Can we get the specs
or a URL to a previous post that describes the specs? Thanks!

Last edited by caldercay; Apr 13, 2008 at 01:01 PM.
Old Apr 13, 2008 | 01:08 PM
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Yeah, the engine on the stand is new and waiting to go in. Specs are as follows:

383 short block, forged Eagle crank and rods
Bret Bauer Cam, high 500s lift on intake and exhaust.
Ported TFS heads, flow around 300cfm @ 0.600"
Ported LT1 intake
Holley 58mm TB
Pacesetter LTs
Scorpion 1.6 rockers

Should make good power. The only concern I have is the narrow LSA on the cam. Might have a hard time getting this thing to idle below 1000 RPM.
Old Apr 13, 2008 | 01:12 PM
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Nice VC. You may have to mill the inside lip down. You'll know for sure if you start to smell burnt oil on your headers. Most likely they'll leak from the back vs the front, why I don't know but mine did. Make sure you tighten them down good too 1st then see if you get any leaks before milling the inside lip.

Nice engine!
Old Apr 13, 2008 | 07:42 PM
  #5  
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From: Aurora, IL
Thats a good way of doing it, building up a second engine to eliminate downtime. Everything looks good, post up the results once it is up and running.
Old Apr 13, 2008 | 09:00 PM
  #6  
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Originally Posted by 2000GTP
Thats a good way of doing it, building up a second engine to eliminate downtime. Everything looks good, post up the results once it is up and running.
That's how I am doing mine.

Any tricks you learned that you'd like to share on pulling the old motor out?
Old Apr 13, 2008 | 10:14 PM
  #7  
96' Formula WS6's Avatar
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That nice shiny motor i going to look great in the car. Also that looks just like one of the pictures on Golen's website. Is that one of there's?

Edit: NVM your VC's are chrome there's are black. Sorry.

Last edited by 96' Formula WS6; Apr 13, 2008 at 10:17 PM.
Old Apr 14, 2008 | 07:15 AM
  #8  
irocbsa's Avatar
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Tips on dropping the engine? Follow this link:

http://www.michiganspeed.com/enginepull/index.html

Its the best write up I've seen on the topic. Instead of his homemade jackstand stools, I used 8" cinderblocks. They're more than capable of handling the weight of the car once the powertrain is out. I got 4 of them from a building supply store for $7. Also, instead of his steel dolly I used two furniture dollies from Tractor Supply. They're rated at 1000 lbs and only cost $21 each. They worked like a charm. Just take your time and be safe. This is a much better way vs. pulling it out the top. I spent very little time laying on my back in pools of coolant and oil like you do when you're trying to detach the trans while its still in the vehicle.
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