I cant get any of the 6 torx head bolts to break loose at all . Ive broken 4 hardened torx bits and am getting nowhere . I sprayed it down PB blaster and let it sit pretty much all day , and that didnt help at all . I wanted to avoid pulling the hub , because from past expiriences that can be a nightmare all in itself . The calies crank is keyed , but Im pretty sure HPE didnt hone the new ATI hub . Any suggestions on what to do to get the 6 torxs bolts off . What a pita for just a simple opti swap

 

Don't know how to help you out here. The ATI perimeter bolts are only supposed to be torqued to 16lb/ft and the 3 accessory bolts to 30lb/ft. It's odd that you can't break 'em loose.

My ATI damper hub was a pretty smooth fit on a Callies Compstar crank. I don't feel like it would be very tough to pull. I hope you don't have to go this route but sometimes you just kinda take it in the rear.

 

Recently ATI has been shipping the damper/hub units already bolted together and they use locktite on the 6 torx head bolts. Yes it's a PITA to break loose those bolts now.

I'd go ahead and bite the bullet and pull the hub/damper assembly. It should come off easier than a stock hub.

Karl Ellwein

 

Well , I just came to the conclusion those torx screws arent ever coming out ...I broke multiple hardend bits and never even broke 1 loose . So I used a balancer tool and pulled the whole hub off .

 

Did you use a MAC or a Snap On torx bit?

Get one of those, put it in the bolt head with a short extension, with a hammer knock the crap out of the back of the extension a few times driving it into the bolt head...this will help jar it loose.



David

 

thread locker melts at about 300 degrees F.

Get an impact driver....looks like a screwdriver you hit with a hammer, has a 3/8 drive on the end to put your socket on. You set it to eother right or left and hit it, That will get them out. You will have to do it on a bench. Threadlocker is basicly plastic that hardens, you can melt it or try to see if a solvent will get in there(laquer thinner)

 

the screws should be o.k.

Call ATI monday morning......they are good to deal with, heating it would call for a rebuild

 

You dont need to remove the balancer from the hub to get it off . Just pull balancer attached to the hub with a balancer remover . I was not wanting to pull the hub initially because I had 2 instances before where they were extremely ....almost next to impossible to get off and back on . This Z came off and installed easily .

 

I guess you could try drilling out the center of the torx bits and using a bolt remover to remove the bolt.

-B

 

I think we all need to call ATI and tell them to stop with the thread locker already. I retail their dampers and now I put them in a vice and unbolt the torx bolts for the customer prior to shipping. What a pain!

Karl

 

....how on earth Im not a dumbass and Im pretty resourceful and I couldnt even get one to budge .

 

Trying to remove the ATI super damper but having a heck of a time, I'm trying to remove it as a whole, do you just push against the center stud? I never was the one to put it on so I'm not certain, but I gather I need to push against the center bolt with a balancer remover to get it off. I tried this with a KD tools balancer remover and the remover started bending, I have a nicer balancer puller but don't want to damager anything, what exactly do you guys push against when pulling the balancer, the center bolt or an adapter piece to go over the center bolt?

Thanks.

 

My ATI Super Damper calls for a special torx bit: A T-40 PLUS. I tried to find it at about every store I could think of - No Good. Then I found that Summit sells it.

Wonder if that bit will make a difference.

Jake

 

So push against the original stud? Wondering if I can put something over it and push against the crank, cuz it won't budge.

 

Yeah I took the washer off, basically there is the stud thats in there and I can't get it out with the balancer on, than there is the washer which came off, and the nut which ofcoarse came off. I take the washer off now maybe slide a socket of the stud since I broke one of my pullers pushing up against the stud, I'll try again, thanks bro, this is scarry cuz I have an expensive crank, don't want to ruin this engine The car I'm working on is a 383 fully built, don't wanna ruin anything.