What sucks is I tested the ICM, AND replaced the coil. I even verified that spark was making it to the Optispark, but no spark was going the the plug wires to the spark plugs. I check both the #1 and #7 plug wires, and no spark was going to the plugs. I figured I had done all that I could do to verify it was the Opti. I didn't consider the plug wires because I didn't believe that a car would just all of a sudden die if some wires went bad. I figured it would run very poorly, but not die.
What else can I possibly check??? Now, I'm going to try changing the wires, since there isn't anything else I can think of. Oh yeah, I already checked the fuses.:^)

 

is it just cranking over? are you getting fuel?eliminate that first

 

or is there absolutely no spark at all going to it?

 

It's just cranking, and I hear the fuel pump working (although I havn't chekd toschrader valve yet to confirm).
I chaged out the ICM and the coil, and verified that spark was making it to the Opti from the coil by pulling the coil wire on the Opti side, and physically observing the spark. That eliminated the ICM and coil. I then pulled the #1 and #7 spark plug wires, and no spark was coming from them. So I replaced the Opti, and the same thing is still happening.

 

I just want to confirm... spark is getting to the Opti, but no spark is reaching the plugs. Is there spark at any of the other plugs or just no spark at 1 & 7?

Did you check for fuel pressure yet?

 

Visually verifying the spark isn't always accurate, use a spark gap tester...weak spark will just crank, but "look" ok. Try the coil wire too.

 

This might help...
http://csce.uark.edu/~jgbertr/rb/95_..._schematic.jpg

 

How would I use the ohm meter that was mentioned before?

 

Depends on the meter, but typically you just set it to OHMS, connect the red lead to one end of the wire to be measured, the black to the other end and it should read something low, near zero...if the path is open it'll read infinite, OPEN, or Overload...depends on the brand. If you touch the leads of the meter together, you'll see what it's doing...you're just "extending" the leads and adding something else to the path to be measured. It's very simple...if you go to Radio Shack or an autoparts store to pick one up, they can show you real quick how to use it.

 

I think I know someone who has one, so I'll see if I can check that.

 

Remember, don't test the spark with the Ohm Meter, just the wires. Otherwise you'll fry a meter by sending 30,000 volts to it.

 

Absolutely...good advice, I should have clarified that my description above was just general meter operation to check a wire/connection....NEVER use an ohmmeter with power applied.

Also, plug wires will have some resistance, but you can still use the meter to compare one wire to another, and if they're different then you've found a problem.

 

Here is one that is very very unlikely but It can happen...

With engine cold.. at outside temp.... if the Coolant Temp sensor shorts out the PCM will pull out all the timing advance at crank up and you may be getting fuel plus sparks but the darn thing wont start...


So find a way to check your timing at crancking speeds... if its near zero or at zero... Buy a Coolant temp sensor (the one at the water pump) it should be no more than 9 Dollars US.


By the way this is one of the last things you wanna check for... it is very very unlike a Thermistor will short out anyway.


Marvin

 

Thanks. I'm coming to the end of options, so you never know...

 

Hey partner...well seems your not the only one having this EXACT same problem...
Let me see if this sounds familiar. Once day I was driving to work and the car just died (Seemed to happen the moment I lefted my foot off the gas - but not evertime) so I pulled over to the side of the road pumped the gas a bit then it finally started again...got a little further down the road and it happened again...Finally got all the way to work, parked it and could never get it started again. So I had it towed to the house. Tested the spark coming from the coil (Zapped me good so I know that was working also tested it with spark tester- also have MSD ignition and coil) then proceeded to test the spark coming from the spark plug wires...got nothing!

So I figured I narrowed it down to the Opti must be bad. Well as a matter of fact I just got finished replacing the opti about 30min ago. Darn car is doing the same thing...so I had my brother tap the PCM a little (just out of desperation) and I'll be damn if it didn't crank for a bit as soon as he stopped tapping it would stop running. So we took out the PCM, took it apart, blew out the inside with compressed air then put it back together and re-installed it. This time the car started and ran for like 10min. then just when I thought my problems were over it dies again. While it was ruinning it idled and responded to gas great...

So does anyone have any clues as to what to do next? I noticed the check engine and check gauges like comes on when in the start position (like when the car dings but is not trying to start) and stays on. I can't remember if that normal or if they should go off. Also, it threw no check anything lights whille it was running.

I really don't wanna spend more money on a new PCM just to find out that it may not be tht either. What should I do next?