Price help on 383 build...
Price help on 383 build...
I'm lookin' to rebuild my 97 LT1 into a 383 next year. I need to start saving now. I have been lookin' around for stroker kits, and I think I want to go with this one. 383 kit
I'll probably get the custom balancing, and up grade to Eagle H-Beam rods. Don't know if I can afford the Eagle 4340 crank. So that should put me at $1525 for the kit. Around how much will I be looking at to get my engine rebuilt with this 383 kit? Thanks guys.
I'll probably get the custom balancing, and up grade to Eagle H-Beam rods. Don't know if I can afford the Eagle 4340 crank. So that should put me at $1525 for the kit. Around how much will I be looking at to get my engine rebuilt with this 383 kit? Thanks guys.
Check out the GP section and see when cmotorsports is going to do another stroker GP.
Or give them a shout. www.cmotorsports.com
Or give them a shout. www.cmotorsports.com
I just built about the same kit. I did go with the 4340 and h beam rods. The machine work was 500.00. the balancing was like 125. beacause i went with the 4340. I built the engine myself. Saved money there.
I will send you a PM on www.scfyb.com
Hey Axe......just save as much as you can dude. There is way more to it then just the motor. I got my 383 sitting right here. We were putting it together on sat. and realized that with the Eagle Rods.....the oil pan doesn't clear. Also the windage tray needed to go. I just got off the phone with Nu-Tek and had to order a Canton Pan. $400.00 shipped w/oil pump and pick-up.
Not to mention bigger Tb...bigger injectors...comp reprogramming....gotta do head work (a must). I'm about 3 g's over budget.
But what the hell you only live once and might as well do it right when your in there. I don't believe in skimping around on such a project.
Not to mention bigger Tb...bigger injectors...comp reprogramming....gotta do head work (a must). I'm about 3 g's over budget.
But what the hell you only live once and might as well do it right when your in there. I don't believe in skimping around on such a project.
Originally posted by S.J.S.
Hey Axe......just save as much as you can dude. There is way more to it then just the motor. I got my 383 sitting right here. We were putting it together on sat. and realized that with the Eagle Rods.....the oil pan doesn't clear. Also the windage tray needed to go. I just got off the phone with Nu-Tek and had to order a Canton Pan. $400.00 shipped w/oil pump and pick-up.
Not to mention bigger Tb...bigger injectors...comp reprogramming....gotta do head work (a must). I'm about 3 g's over budget.
But what the hell you only live once and might as well do it right when your in there. I don't believe in skimping around on such a project.
Hey Axe......just save as much as you can dude. There is way more to it then just the motor. I got my 383 sitting right here. We were putting it together on sat. and realized that with the Eagle Rods.....the oil pan doesn't clear. Also the windage tray needed to go. I just got off the phone with Nu-Tek and had to order a Canton Pan. $400.00 shipped w/oil pump and pick-up.
Not to mention bigger Tb...bigger injectors...comp reprogramming....gotta do head work (a must). I'm about 3 g's over budget.
But what the hell you only live once and might as well do it right when your in there. I don't believe in skimping around on such a project.
Originally posted by jonaddis84
Why did you have to buy a canton pan, people do 383s, even 396s all the time with stock pans and windage trays, just takes a little bending.?
Why did you have to buy a canton pan, people do 383s, even 396s all the time with stock pans and windage trays, just takes a little bending.?
Originally posted by S.J.S.
Well...did a lot of research and only 1 guy bended his windage tray. Still can't figure how he did that. Most people with the stock pan don't even run the windage tray and either grinded or bent the pans with a hammer. Not saying that aint good...I'm sure its fine but just for me I decided not to. Without the windage tray you'll lose some HP in the higher RPM's andyour oil pump could cavitate if your running a high volume. Rather just do it right. I figure I'm spending all this money ..."just do it!"
Well...did a lot of research and only 1 guy bended his windage tray. Still can't figure how he did that. Most people with the stock pan don't even run the windage tray and either grinded or bent the pans with a hammer. Not saying that aint good...I'm sure its fine but just for me I decided not to. Without the windage tray you'll lose some HP in the higher RPM's andyour oil pump could cavitate if your running a high volume. Rather just do it right. I figure I'm spending all this money ..."just do it!"
Originally posted by Dave88LX
What do you want the car to do HP wise etc? If nothing outrageous you can do a Scat9000 type crank and some 4340 forged I-beams, and spend the money elsewhere...
What do you want the car to do HP wise etc? If nothing outrageous you can do a Scat9000 type crank and some 4340 forged I-beams, and spend the money elsewhere...
Originally posted by jonaddis84
Gotchya, I didnt realise people with stock pans were not running windage trays, is it possible to run an aftermarket windage tray in a stock pan, like a milodon?
Gotchya, I didnt realise people with stock pans were not running windage trays, is it possible to run an aftermarket windage tray in a stock pan, like a milodon?
Here's a pic of fastblacks one.
http://fastblackz28.cz28.com/images/engine_2.jpg


