So I had leaking headstuds and opted to seal them all and had to pull some of the roller rockers. After I pulled the first one and moved the lock screw I realized if I didnt move it they went back to original location as they had paint on a specific spot. My question is since I cant get ahold of the engine builder( assuming he is ducking my calls and emails because not happy so many studs were leaking with no pressure in coolant system). Should I trust the ones that returned to original location and try and set the other one when running or try a safe preload and what would be a safe preload. The roller rockers apear to be proform if that helps any. Kinda lost without knowing what preload to use and would like to adjust them while motor is still out of car. Any ideas thoughts or suggestions would be much appreciated. Is there any way to identify what my preload may need to be off another one or off a part size or shape or identifying mark. I dont want to wait too long for engine builder to respond so any ideas. Thanks in advance.

 

I sincerely doubt you can return them to the same position. The best way to do this is to set all the valves. Go to Shoebox's website, shbox.com , and follow the directions there. It is quite simple to do this correctly. One note: make sure the flat part of the trunnion in the roller rocker is facing the locknut. If you don't you'll run into problems holding adjustment....

 

I do prefer to adjust them all I just dont know what to do about preload by not knowing what I have for sure.

 

The adjustment procedure is really the same regardless of what rockers you use. I prefer zero lash + 1/2 turn. Other use more or less preload....but not by much. I think if you go with zero lash plus 1/2 to 3/4 turn you'll be fine....

 

Thats why I am asking cuz on shoebox site it said the preload varies and the comp ones required very little. I am assuming what I have are a bugdet minded style with decent reputation based on the parts that I know I have. I dont think the builder is happy that I called him on not going with what ARP specs on their head studs. Ive learned alot so far and with hindsight being 20 20 I would have done things different. One of my best moves was joining this sight and reading the boards and asking questions. Just gotta say thanks to everyone and thanks bw hunter I was thinking I would go on the low side and do a half turn if I dont get ahold of builder before I cant handle waiting any longer.

 

0 lash + 1/2 turn or 0 lash + 1/4 turn for Comp R's is what I have done and haven't had any problems.

 

So finally had time to mess around with car a little while last night. I got the #1 at tdc and the arrow pointed up as per shoebox intructions and backed off the nut without moving the allen head locks and the adjustment was repeatable with each one I played with. The preload was one turn from zero lash or slightly less as I found a small diference in feel between lifting and spinning for the zero lash. Should I keep this with the one turn of preload or back it off a bit? Still no word from engine builder. Please share your thoughts. Thanks.

 

I wouldn't recommend spinning the pushrods during this procedure. Removing all the vertical movement of the pushrod is zero lash. You can go beyond zero lash by spinning the pushrods...

The idea of the preload is two-fold. 1 is to make sure that there is constant contact between the lifter and rockers and the pushrod and 2 is to put the plunger near the center of its' travel. You don't need a full turn on the polylock to get to the center of travel.....

 

Hey thanks bw hunter. I noticed about an 1/8 of a turn difference between spinning and the up down motion and seemed I was a little more consistant with the up down. I think ill go with less preload than the full turn and shoot for 5/8-3/4 of a turn. Appreciate the help. Its nice to learn as much as I have but unfortunately it shows me areas I would have done better with my build had I the knowledge before I placed my order. Definately wouldnt have gotten a longblock