Guys I am thinking of getting a powerprogrammer or something similar anything you guys would recommend? If there something that will allow meto reprogram my fans to come on earlier that'd be good, and I don't know if the powerprogrammer allows that or not.

 

You know for the price of PP, you could get TunetCat and learn how to use it. It is MUCH less than PP and you can do MUCH more! Just my opinion.

 

If you're looking to program yourself, another program you could use would be LT1 Edit. This (along with the Tunercat program) require that you have a cable and a laptop, or a computer that you can get close enough to your vehicle. If you're not looking to do the programming, someone like PCMForLess or MadWolf (don't have his link) are good options as well.

 

I need to look into some of these, do they allow you to 1 get more power outta the car and 2 adjust things like the fans?

 

1. if you just want fans, www.pcmforless.com

2. i hope you realize running colder coolant will be detrimental (not benificial) to engine life.

3. you need a "colder" thermostat as well

4. LEAVE IT STOCK

 

Trey thats kinda what I was asking in my last post under my "thermostat???" thread... so I shouldn't care that it runs 230-240* in the summer? It will be 100+ starting in mid june till the end of august here...but I have also heard that if it runs to cold its bad so shed some light on it please...

 

Someone did a test where the wear rate of the metals were 3x as high running a colder themostat. I wish i could find it- it was somewhere in advanced tech i believe.

anyway, the main reason for a 160 stat is colder air in = more air in. thats not so much an issue witht he LT1 because
a. we dont have coolant running through the intake manifold
b. we have reverse flow heads, meaning cold coolant is going through the heads already since thats the first place it goes



The metals have the best (aka Least) wear the temp the car was designed to run at. Saying its too hot is like a penguin telling a tiger hes gonig to over heat . 240* is a lot for us, but for the engine its optimal. If it wasn't, i'm sure GM would use a 180 or a 160 stat. Costs just as much. Would keep the car colder and could reduce the need/use of an EGR which would save them a butt load.

There is really no reason to run a 160 stat

 

Trey you say leave it all stock would something like a powerprogrammer to get another 20hp cause some major problem? or when you say stock do you mean, actually switching, deleting or adding parts? I've also thought about going ram air since that could be considered "stock" gm did it from the factory....but thats why I'm asking questions cause I don't know what may more may not effect reliability.

 

THEIN HOW COME ARE CARS RUN LIKE CRAP WHEN WHEN THEY ARE THAT HOT THOE

 

In my experience they don't run like crap they just loose about 20hp. It is because warmer air is less dense doesn't combust like cooler air...My TA heated up to 230ish last night still ran good just not quite as zippy.

 

and i got **** for my spelling

 

If all you're interested in is lowering the fan kick-on temperature, check out my site. I've got a saver package for $45 that will do just that and a few other things.

I didn't hear about shortening the engine life by running the engine at a lower temperature, but one thing I can tell, my car was getting way more knock retard when it ran with the stock thermostat and stock fan settings than it did with just lowered fan kick-on temperature.

 

less heat in the heads- less dotantion

you shouldn't be close to knocking with stock stat anyway

 

???