LT1 Based Engine Tech 1993-1997 LT1/LT4 Engine Related

Power window

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Old Sep 23, 2003 | 06:27 PM
  #1  
ead94z28's Avatar
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Question Power window

My passenger side window goes up very slowly and sometimes doesn't make it to the top. I replaced the motor and I still have the same problem. Any suggestions??
Old Sep 23, 2003 | 07:06 PM
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It's always a good idea to grease the window tracks and guides. You should also make sure the flat wound spring on the regulator is not broken. You will probably need a mirror to see it. Also check for any other broken regulator parts or window misalignment.
Old Sep 23, 2003 | 07:15 PM
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Thanks shoebox, i'll check it out.

Gene
Old Sep 23, 2003 | 10:31 PM
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Will do.
Old Sep 23, 2003 | 10:42 PM
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Mine are slow too. Sometimes, they work fine at other times. But, they work. I'll be looking for your results also.
Old Sep 23, 2003 | 10:52 PM
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How hard is it to do this?
Old Sep 23, 2003 | 11:15 PM
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Originally posted by Maroon93Z28
How hard is it to do this?
Info on replacing the motor and window adjusments are on my Tech Page (link in sig).
Old Sep 23, 2003 | 11:35 PM
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ok..yea my windows are getting slower..specially my passenger side...but sometimes when you go to wash your car..i was mine at the do it your own car wash where u put money it, well when i you use the power blaster sprayer and when i spray my windows a lil bit of water gets in(not alot) but some...even when i take it to the car wash at teh gas station ill sit in my car and when the water shoots in it SCARES the crap out of me...i mean my windows roll all the way up and my window trim or w/e it is (its the rubber piece) n e ways is in good condition!! does that happen to n e of yalls car? i have a 95 maro Z28 a4
Old Sep 24, 2003 | 12:06 AM
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water will spray in on mine at those booths, its funny cause sometimes a heavy storm will let water in, and sometimes not-go figure. The seals are probably not as good as they once were. I read an article about verts that had the worst time sealing out hte water and the corvette came in #1. Granted verts are worse than a hardtop, my point is what is happening will be common on a car that is a few years old, and some that are new like our friend the Corvette. I think you can use dielectric grease on the rubber to keep them happy and preserve their life. Shoebox will know for sure, wait and see what he says before throwing that on there.
Old Sep 24, 2003 | 12:56 AM
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Well i'm in the same boat as you are. My drivers side window goes up real slow then sometimes it won't make it. I then have to wait a few more minutes for it to gain some more power so i can move it a few more inches.

As for the window sealing issue. My windows go all the way up and the window seals are in great condition. But i went through a car wash the other day that had no brushes just a high pressure sprayer. Well lets just say my windows were all the way up and i got soaked. I didn't noticed right away that it did the same thing on my passenger side window. I was sort of pissed off but i'm glad to here that i'm not the only one that has this problem.
Old Sep 24, 2003 | 01:33 AM
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My drivers side window goes up real slow then sometimes it won't make it. I then have to wait a few more minutes for it to gain some more power so i can move it a few more inches.

My driver side window did just that before it crapped out on me.
luckily it crapped out on the up position. I made it go up after several attemps... and never went back down again. Replace the motor and now its faster than the passenger side.


Note: the grease inside the regulador rails was dryed up.. I bet that contributed to the motor going south. It took me some time to free the rollers and clean the rails... GM sure did put some crappy grease there.


Marvin
Old Sep 24, 2003 | 01:57 AM
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Yeah i'm sort of affraid of rolling down my window because i don't want it to get stuck in the down position. That would suck. How long did it take you to replace the motor?
Old Sep 24, 2003 | 02:35 AM
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well I checked in the owners manual and it said you can use dielectric grease on the weatherstriping.

Mine had the same symptoms as your car, it would stop rolling up all the way and I would have to wait, then it would work, other times it did'nt want to roll down, and it did this as soon as I got into the car, so I didn't think it was the motor, since it didn't have time to overheat and cause it to stop. Reguardless of either switch it would do this, so I bought a new motor, and before putting everything back together I hooked in the motor to make sure it worked, and it did the same thing. I messed with the switch wires and cleaned them, and it now works fine with the old motor, it even rolls up faster than it use to. I would check these before tearing into the motor. I also cleaned the connector that plugs into the motor itself, as it was pretty dirty, this may have been my culprit.

As far as time consuming its really not bad, finding the places to drill to access the rivets is the hardest, and its not bad, I see some posts that say it took 2 days when really it should take less than two hours. Look up the guides on doing it and then you will know where the holes must be drilled, oh and if you can get another pair of hands its easier to hold up the motor and put a screw in it. I couldn't use the C-clamp to hold the window up like it said in the guide, cause none of mine (all 5) fit inside, I had to cut a small board that held it up that stood vertically
Old Sep 24, 2003 | 03:13 AM
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Yeah i'm sort of affraid of rolling down my window because i don't want it to get stuck in the down position. That would suck. How long did it take you to replace the motor?

Well it took me a long time cause I did just about everything wrong... except the part where you replace the motor... seems like I am the only one who did it the right way the first time..


The regulator is riveted to the door panel... I thought I could just drill the rivers out right??? Dam dam dam... I could just have punched the center part out... I nearly damage my door panel..

Then I coudlnt remove the regulator... cuase I didnt have removed all the bolts and screws... I was doing it the hard way..
then when I tried to put it back together.. I had no rivets of the right size either... dam dam dam... I ran to Home depot and got me some short screws that were just a bit smaller then the diameter of the rivetts... I bolted all together with screws washers and nuts.. put some pain on the thread to keep em from coming out loose...


Tip: once you remove the regulator.. do not remove the motor just yet... you may loose a finger or two in the process... find a place where two of the regulator arms overlap each other and then drill a hole all the way through them... put a bolt and a nut the there... that will keep em from unloading the spring tension when you remove the motor... then you place the motor and once firmly attachec you can remove that bolt out...


It was time consuming.. I can not explain everything on this post but next time I will know exactly what to do.. I bet I will do it in 1 hr or so... first time... its gonna take time... I promise.

Marvin
Old Sep 24, 2003 | 08:08 AM
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Originally posted by MentalCaseOne
Well it took me a long time cause I did just about everything wrong... except the part where you replace the motor... seems like I am the only one who did it the right way the first time..


The regulator is riveted to the door panel... I thought I could just drill the rivers out right??? Dam dam dam... I could just have punched the center part out... I nearly damage my door panel..

Then I coudlnt remove the regulator... cuase I didnt have removed all the bolts and screws... I was doing it the hard way..
then when I tried to put it back together.. I had no rivets of the right size either... dam dam dam... I ran to Home depot and got me some short screws that were just a bit smaller then the diameter of the rivetts... I bolted all together with screws washers and nuts.. put some pain on the thread to keep em from coming out loose...


Tip: once you remove the regulator.. do not remove the motor just yet... you may loose a finger or two in the process... find a place where two of the regulator arms overlap each other and then drill a hole all the way through them... put a bolt and a nut the there... that will keep em from unloading the spring tension when you remove the motor... then you place the motor and once firmly attachec you can remove that bolt out...


It was time consuming.. I can not explain everything on this post but next time I will know exactly what to do.. I bet I will do it in 1 hr or so... first time... its gonna take time... I promise.

Marvin
My method does not require removing the regulator at all. Easier, safer, faster, IMO. I have gotten emails from people that had never had the door panel off and it only took them a couple hours.



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