Currently, im sitting somewhere around 320-330 rwhp i'd estimate. The power is nice, but i certainly want more. I'll be getting my heads/intake ported by lloyd elliot next spring(will be le1 heads), so conservatively ill say that ill have somewhere between 350 rwhp-360 rwhp. I am sure I'll get bored of that rather quickly.

My next step is likely to be a very low boost forced induction setup...as i would not like to change my current cam. I've heard its about the biggest you can go and get away with emissions on an emissions tune. I would like to hit between 410-430 rwhp ultimately..as I think anything more for the street and i'll kill myself. so with a boost setup of lets say 4.5 psi(i wouldnt rule out a small powerdyne blower, as i've heard they are pretty reliable at low boost) - 6psi(vortech), how would my block hold up with that power level? I wont be spinning past 6200 rpms, so rpm wont be an issue..but will the crank, pistons, rods,block, etc have any problem with the power? If so, what is generally the safe horsepower level for the bottom end? As far as the rear end goes, I dont really drag race it, so i would not be launching it hard. However, if the rear breaks, ill stick in a 12 bolt or whatever. same with the tranny. I will also be upgrading the fuel system.

I'd like to avoid getting into the money pit of upgrading the bottom end of the engine, but if it has to be done it has to be done. Thoughts?

 

Results will vary. Do tons of searching.
My stock 120k motor held up fine to 510tq, got bored with the n20 and now on cam is making 350ish. I know people who have made 400+ for years. I know people that throw a rod with 20k and no mods.

For heads, if you keep your cam and don't go huge on the heads it will probably be fine for a while if you don't abuse it. Thats the key, maintenance(sp?) and not beating it all the time.

For FI it will be a time bomb no matter what. You can patch it and bandaid it for quite a while, but expect to at least spend lots on fuel. Thats for another board section all together though.

I wouldn't go any further than were you or I are at without the money to build the bottom end. Theres no magic forumla, just lots of luck.

 

the car isnt my daily driver, and i maybe put 2000-3000 miles on it a year. i will get on the gas every so often, but i really dont beat it. I'll have the $$ for whatever it needs. Perhaps I will be satisfied making 360 rwhp pretty reliably..but i doubt it. ultimately, all our engines, stock or not, are time bombs. every engine eventually needs a rebuild. seeing as you say, that every engine seems to be different with regards to when it goes and at what power level, ill probably just stick the blower on it with minimal boost, and wait till she blows. throw it back together with a budget 355 and forged pistons..and see what happens then . Just wasnt sure if there was a set cut-off power level when everything seems to fail in the engine.

 

Nobody wants to hear this, but you should always start with your block first.

I mean, if you want to go beyond basic bolt-ons.

 

I agree, its better to pay once and do it right the first time..

 

So your saying, even if you just mildly cam your car(+ bolt-ons) and dont spin your rpms ultra high(6700 rpms plus)..you should build the bottom end?

Well, whether your tear it apart after it breaks..or before it breaks..your still tearing it apart the same amount of times. I guess your just saving yourself a break down on the road somewhere.

 

Ehhh, for the cost of a 12 bolt you could put some new bearings in the bottom end, recondition the rods with some new ARP fasteners(or get some Eagle I-beams), get some forged pistons and the needed machine work.

 

Alot depends on how you drive it.

A basic heads/cam engine won,t last long if it sees 7k leaving every stop light.

A wild and wooly FI setup cranking out 600 to 700 horsepower will last a mighty long time if you drive it like a grandma.

Figure out what you want to do with the car and what you want the car to do and build accordingly.

For what its worth my stock LT1 with bolt ons has 160k on it now and it still kicks *** and its very intimate with the rev limiter.

 

hmm, the only reason i made that a point is because ive read time and time again about how people on this board end up dumping thousands into their engine, which they didnt anticipate.

well, if i did the pistons and rods and bearings... what kind of power is the stock crank good up until??? if i got into it, i might as well do it the right way.

 

lol,

well i drive my car maybe once or twice a week in the summer, and ill get on it like once or twice. i dont drive it during the winter, unless i drive it over to the shop for work. so i dont exactly beat on it. i dont race it, i just like to feel the violent power when i floor it.

i want a touch over 400 rwhp...but was unsure as to peoples experience at that level with a stock bottom end(my top end is built) but not revving high(as ive read parts break through rpm, not horsepower, but im sure at some level the power will break it), and also the use of a low boost setup.

But as im seeing now, it seems its just a guessing game. it might be fine, it might not be. so what the hell, im gonna toss some power at it..and see how she does..and then report my findings

 

I'm really not sure what the stock crank is good up to. If you're wanting to do heads/cam and a low boost supercharger I would think the stock crank would be fine. I got an Eagle forged crank for $569 since I intend to rev mine high and spray it, just to give you a comparison of how much a forged crank would cost (plus you have to add in balancing).