I HAVEN'T WORKED ON THE CAR. I WILL THIS AFTERNOON THOUGH. I'LL POST TOMORROW ON WHAT THE OUTCOME WAS. HEY, IF YOUR CAR TURNED ON--BE HAPPY--MINE DIDN'T.

 

DIDN'T MEAN TO DO ALL CAPS----NOT YELLING--THAT'S NOT ME. BAD HABIT I GUESS-----LATERZ

 

OWWW, my ears (and eyes)

At install, the dots can be together (crank at 12, cam at 6) or they can be both at 12. The reason all the books say to do the first method is that is much easier to see and judge that they are aligned right. What confuses everyone is that they think with the dots together that it is #1 TDC when it is in fact #6.

There are always two pistons at the same position of travel in their respective cylinders at the same time (and opposed in the firing order), but it is the cam/valves that dictates which one is on the power stroke or exhaust stroke.

 

I did the readjustment of the valves yesterday with the #1 piston at TDC. Tried to turn the car on----but, it didn't. I don't know what to look at now------any suggestions out there???????

Still have that thing in the back of my head that probably the cam is wrongly installed----it's making my life miserable.

 

If you think the cam is installed incorrect than check it out.

I just don't see how it can be as long as you did the dot to dot method. The crank is keyed and the cam gear will only go on one way.
Are you positive you got the opti installed correctly? It's easy sometimes not to install it correctly or to fully seat it that is.

What cam are you installing?
Check PCM fuse and other fuses as well.

Keep us updated.

 

Yea, I guess you are right---how could it be wrong if cranck is at 12 and cam at 6. I'll have to check the opti this weekend and try to finally see what is giving me this problem. I checked the fuses and all of them worked. The cam is the original cam that I had on the original motor. I purchased the short block from a friend but he had the LT4 cam in it---so he pulled it out ---and give me the block with no cam--no timing chain. I just need time to review everything carefully----I get home from work and want to fix it in a snap---and that's not giving me the result I need.

Thanks for the suggestions guys.----PLJ.

 

I would be checking for spark and then fuel pressure as my next steps.

 

I checked for spark at the coil---good. I check the injectors with the noid light---good. I ckecked the shraeder valve for pressurized gas----good. I can't figure it out. Maybe this weekend.

 

Check your wires, They might be off. That is why you get a loud backfire.

 

Did you make sure the wires went to the right sockets on the Opti they are not in order they are staggered slightly like the driver side is top 5,3,7,1 bottom, and drivers side is top 4,6,8,2 bottom. That sounds like the reason you have a back fire the cylinder is firing with the intake valve still open. two wires crossed will cause it everytime.

 

I'm not getting any backfire, the car just won't turn on. It turns and turns but doesn't even hesitate---as if wanting to turn on--I put the wires right, I did it with the Chilton manual.

Thanks for the comment though.

 

check spark at a plug could be a bad opti.

 

I'll try that.

 

Boy, I'm glad I ran into this thread before I made the same mistake.

Have you checked all the other connectors on the engine (i.e. crank position sensor)? If everything else is ok It sounds like this is an opti problem.

I really hope my install goes smoother than this ...


--Trax

 

CPS wont cause it to not fire it will just set a code.