Ok, it seems the stockers might not work for me. I have already replaced them twice in 4000 miles, and looks like I need a new set. So, what is the best? I have 10.5:1 compression. With higher compression, do I have to lower the heat range? I took my car to the shop, and they think I may have carbon tracking. So, wouldn't that mean that my plugs have too much resistance, and I need to get lower resistance ones? I used dielectric grease on the boots. I posted a different thread about it, and it is pretty interesting. There is a guy there saying I shouldn't. Check it out
http://web.camaross.com/forums/showthread.php?t=407476
So, I don't know what to do.
I have MSD coil, MSD 8.5 superconductors, and brand new opti last week. Wires and coil are two weeks old.
HELP!
need advice ASAP.
Thanks
Cody

 

Your tech is trying to say that the fire is jumping down the porcelain to the grounded metal part of the plug.
This happens when the fire can't jump the gap or there is a lot on something conductive on the porcelain to let the spark go to ground(the metal part) Narrow up your plug gap to .035 it will go away and take the load off of the opti. It won't hurt a thing. If it keeps doing it the spark will back up in the opti and ruin IT with carbon tracking. The spark has to go somewhere.

 

I could be wrong, but I do believe the book said to gap at .050. Don't jump my shat if i am wrong, but I do believe that is what the LT1 book called for. I read the GM book, not chiltons or some other chinsy book. I work at the chevy dealership, so they are all gung ho about doing it exactly as the book says. So, a little real world experience would help me out tremendously, as I don't want to step on their feet. They have helped me soo much, but I just need a little more real world LT1 experience, much like you suggested. Has anyone else tried this? what gaps is everyone running?
~Cody

 

.050 IS what the book says and that's for a stock engine in good shape. It will give ya a tad smother idle and is good for emissions and selling tune ups.
The .035 makes it easier for the spark to jump the gap instead of trying to go a less resistant path ie. anyplace closer to a ground that it can find a path to. If it can't find a place on the plug or wire end it backs up in the opti and finds a ground there which makes nice little lines that ruin the cap rotor and the opti itself. The juice has to go somewhere and if not across the plug gap then other places in the secondary system.
which cause big problems.

 

I had the same problem with carbon tracking. I set the gaps at .040 and theyve been working great since. The .050 is set for a smooth idle and emmisisons. Some people set em at .042, .035, etc, just play around with em untill you get somthing that works for you.
Youre opti will live a longer life too, remember, electricity is lazy, it will take the shortest, easiest path it can find, weather its the plug gaps, opti itself, or around the coil and bracket.

 

hmm, so should I just buy the stock platniums again, and just gap them a bit smaller? Is that the consensus? That would be easy enough!
~Cody

 

Everyone has their opinion on plugs, but I have heard that a lot of people have problems with platniums. I would use Autolite 106's and skip the dielectric grease on the boots. You can narrow the gap down a little, but if the tracking continues I would say you have a problem that needs to be solved. You really ought to have plenty of juice to jump the stock gap.

 

not trying to be a dick, but I don't really want ford crap on my car if I don't have too... any other plug types that work well in our cars?

 

R U ****TIN me?? 10.5:1 is not an LT1's compression ratio, is it? I thought it was much lower. I will have to look into that. Anywho, autolites are a trusted plug of this board, is that the consensus? I just want to make a very informed decision this time, instead of just running out and buying something praying it will work this time. I am sick of guessing. So, experience talks, bullshat walks. I appreciate all the help I am getting people!

 

If you dont want to use Autolites(I dont have any experience with them so cant say) try the NGK TR5. The ground electrode is shorter so you can gap them at .035 without bowing it.

 

huh, bowing it? I have heard a lot of crap about NGKs sucking on cars, but work great for snowmobiles. But, if people are using them flawlessly, then that is the way I could go. Which number is the best? TR55 or 56 or what? Should I step a bit colder, hotter, or stock heat?

 

Stick with Autolite,Champion,AC Delco.
Autolite ain't Ford-- Motorcraft is.

 

well damnit, which one?? I have been using ac delco, but I don't think it was the plugs fault for failing, as I gooped up the die electric grease. should I give delco another shot or not? I won't buy champion. they are junk. I hate them in my snowmobile and my dirtbike.

 

Well, in my experience, a plug that works well in one application may run like crap in another, not the plugs fault, just the way things work I guess.
Go ahead and give the delcos a try, Ive never had problems with them.
And by bowing I mean causing the electrode to curve when you gap it, this will cause an inconsistent gap across it.

 

On the old setup (ported heads, HOTcam, bolt ons) I tried the AC Delco platinums, Champion coppers, and NGK plugs, all in the stock heat range. I didn't notice any difference at all between the 3. I was at about stock compression though, you may be a few points higher than I was. I always thought the stock compression was 10.1, but just saw on another website that it's 10.4.......