Well tomarrow I plan on changing my plugs (NGK TR55s) and wires (Accel 300+).
I have heard (and know from looking) this is a monster of a job.
So before I get under the car are there any specific tools (like an elbow socket) that I need?

Also rather than waste time trying to figure out what parts I NEED to remove to get to the plugs, I hope some of you might be able to tell me the most efficient way to get at it.

**Problem**
The reason I need to do it tomarrow is because my car has been having a backfire problem lately.
Its fine when it first starts up, and runs great for about 20min. After that it starts to misfire, or backfire under full throttle, and after a few more minutes of driving misfires under partial throttle, and eventually starts poping and lurching at little more than idle.
The problem doesn't seem to be heat related as engine temp is low, and the engine reaches normal temp about 5-10 min before the problem starts.

I changed the coil yesterday, and if anything the problem got worse. So I assume it is most likely after the coil (please let it not be the opti)

Now if the problem continues after changing the plugs and wires, what should I try next? Can just changing the cap and rotor button on the opti be sufficient, or must the whole opti be changed if it is the part that is malfunctioning.

Thanks for any help
Adam

 

I'll give you advice about the spark plug wires.

KEEP THEM AWAY FROM THE MANIFOLDS or headers!!!! I learned the hard way. Just make sure not one wire is touching them. Oh yea, get ready for the blood and pain.

 

Yeah, don't expect to definately finish it in one day. I actually started mine today. I did the driver side, 160 thermostat, and 1le intake. That's all easy, then I took off the alternator for the passenger side and was just like..**** this, I'll do it this weekend.

 

I was planning on putting them in the stock location.....?
I got stock length wires.

Should I buy that wire wrapping stuff, and use it by the ex manifolds, or will that just melt?

 

Wow,that doesn't sound like plugs and wires to me.Do you still have the original water pump?When they start to go,the drip onto the distributor,and cause exactly what you discribed.Also,Might spray some carb cleaner ever so gently on the mass air sensor and see if that helps.I would get the car scoped by a mechanic first.M02.

 

Well I suppose it could be a bad gasket on the water pump, but AFAIK there is no coolant leakage, and the engine stays very cool (at least since I changed the coolant and added the 160 stat).

Initially I thought it was a detonation problem, and my guess was the fuel pump was quitting out when it got hot.
However people here said that it didn't sound like detonation and rather a misfire.

Today I could actually hear the exaust poping every now and then at an idle when it got to its worst.
At that point I was just trying to find a parking lot, and as I accelerated past 1000rpms the car would lurch, and shake horribly.

Anyone else have any ideas?

BTW: I have been planning on changing the plugs and wires for some time, because it needs them simply as a tuneup...I just never got around to it because its so hard to do.

 

My suggestions:
Start Saturday morning
Have the car up on ramps, you will need to work from below
Get a set of quality looms, not the cheap ones that come with the wires
I did mine during a header install which made the passenger side a lot easier since the starfter and y pipe were off
Route them as far away from the manifolds as possible
The stock looms won't fit right with larger diameter wires though you can force them. It's better to enlarge the stock looms with a Dremel if you plan to reuse them.
Take your time and do it right the first time.

 

My only suggestion is to take the altinator off... It makes the job much easier.

 

Oh yeah... I can do it in about a half hour, or less.

 

I can get everyone from the top, except for 7 and 8.

 

Is it at all dangerous to change just a few and drive it?
I know its not a good idea to change half the spark plugs, but for one or two days, will it really hurt?

I am hoping I will find a bad wire or fouled plug today.

Anyone else? So the alternator should come off? Anything else?

 

You have good timing, I did the same thing to mine this week.

Time: 2 1/2 hours for plugs & wires (90 minutes on ONE plug)

Driver side. Get under the car, have all 4 plugs/wires with you. Do one at a time, should be done within 15 minutes. (EASY access on the drivers side from the bottom)

Passenger side, takes a little more work. From the top, take off the alternator AND the black alternator bracket. This spark plug took me 90 minutes to reach, PITA!!! Finally got it, took 5 minutes to put the new plug in. The rest of the plugs can be taken off from the top (except the last one, closest to the firewall). If you have long arms, get to it from the bottom. Then just run all the wires to the distributor and match them up.

BEFORE DOING ANYTHING...disconnect the battery positive AND negative terminals, remove battery from car. Once everything is installed and ready to go, fire it up and pray it runs good.

I personally let me sit there for 3 or 4 minutes and warm up. Then took it on the road for a WOT test. Mine idles better, throttle response is very nice, and so far the gas mileage has gone up a little (15-20 miles on a full tank).

ps-On the coil, clean the tip to make sure it doesn't have any corrosion (white stuff?). I replaced mine awhile back but still clean it every once in awhile. Good luck!

 

If you have headers you can go over the valve cover its a lot easer to do.


http://ken.lowrance.com/Projects/OVC...OVCInstall.htm




lt1coz

 

Dont let em scare you. Wires are NOT that hard to do. Get someone to help you out and it'll take you a few hours at most.

 

Agreed, not hard to do. But, a couple of guys, a few hours to do... not your typical plug wire replacement job either.