okay so i spun a rod bearing and my crank and one rod are shot. so im looking to rebuild my engine on a budget. so i need atleast one rod, and a crank, piston rings, not to mention all the bearings and gaskets. while im replacing the crank id like to just upgrade to a 383 but im not sure on the price difference. where are the best places to get these items on a budget, does anyone have any of this stuff laying around they need to get rid off? help me out this is my only vehicle and i need to get it fixed on a pretty tight budget. thanks for your time, any advice is appreciated.
andrew

 

if you are looking for budget stay with the 3.48" crank

are you wanting to get more power out of it or just rebuild it? Or just fixe the broken parts?

 

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/COMPL...spagenameZWDVW

then look to http://www.eportworks.com for a head and cam package

then find some good 1.6:1 roller rockers

58 mm throttle body

then some larger injectors

then a walboro 255 fuel pump

500-800 in machine work

and a mail order tune from madz28 followed by some time spent tuning on the dyno.

all together around 4700 bucks and you will have a nice 383 but dont boost or spray it tomuch as the pistons in that kit arent forged.

now if you want a setup like i have then plan on spending 11-12k bucks. if you include the procharger

i would say stay stock and add a small sc like a powerdyne and save some $$$ to build the 383 the right way for when it blows.

 

Is it just me, or did someone not get the part where he said he's on a budget.

 

Okay so basically im looking right now at replacing the one rod that spun the bearing, replacing rings and bearings, honing cylinder walls which are only 3 thousandths off factory spec, and replacing gaskets. i have to buy a crankshaft so basically i would like to know if its just plain stupid to go with a 383 crank with my factory pistons and rods? im not planning on spraying or boosting it just need to get it driveable. is this setup a reciepe for another blow up? also which is the weaker link between the factory rods or pistons?

 

Rods will let go first on the right tune (cap/bolts break). If your tune is bad, pinging will destroy the factory piston fast.

Nothing is ever as cheap as you hope. My 2k build has turned into $5500 and I haven't started assymbly yet.

 

383 crank (3.75 stroke) with factory rods will not work. The block has to be clearanced for the additional stroke. That is where the cost start to come in.

If I were you and really wanted to stay on budget, I would put a new crank in it and at least one new rod (rings and bearings obviously) and put it back together.
The word budget and stroker don't really go in the same sentence... As many have said here your budget is really just a guide because when you start to build it you start to put the whole project into perspective...saving $100 on this part then $50 on this part ends up not being a concern when longevity is your ultimate goal.

 

If you really are on a tight budget you could PM me, and ask about my stock crank that's just taking up space. I'm sure we could figure out how to get it to ya.

Mike

 

i was confused about the block maching post. So could someone get by with machining the block for the longer stroke and using the factory rods or will the rods not work at all with a 3.75" stroke. also would different rods allow the block to not have to be machined?

 

Depending on the damage that was done you may have to machine the block even if you want to stay stock.

What are your future plans?

That will determine what you should do. Since its dead now anyways just save up the money and do it right the first time. You will be much happier that you spent 5-8k once rather than rebuild it for like 3k and then rebuild it again because you want to forge the internals and run nos or a power adder.

If you can elaborate on your plans for the car people will have much more useful information. Budget and race car should not be used in the same sentence.