The parts list is finished! Check her out and see if I am missing anything.
Thread Starter
Registered User
Joined: Aug 2000
Posts: 3,523
From: TX
The parts list is finished! Check her out and see if I am missing anything.
After 6 months or so the engine I want has finally fell together. The parts list is long but it is definately not over done. I was looking to build a formitable street machine that would be a great daily driver and a terror in a drag race without killing 20 grand in mods. I thought about the LT4 conversion kit and staying the with HOT cam due to previous experience with it in my 97. Now I know that the only cam for me is the 846. 
Read on for the list and tell me what you think.
Car is a 93 Z28.
Motor
Good block work with 4 bolt mains. - Im thinking it will be around 500$
Summit Rebuild kit - Consisting of: - 540$
- Speed Pro Forged Pistons 10.4:1 CR
- Speed Pro Rings
- Main, Cam &, Rod Bearings
- Melling High Volume Oil Pump
- All Needed Gaskets
- Freeze Plugs
Arp Fasteners for the bottom end. - 100$
Crane Roller Lifters - 170$
Comp Cams Hardeded Pushrods - 36$
GM 846 Cam - 230$
1.6 GM Bowtie Roller Rockers (I like the little bowtie on them.) - 300$
Matched Springs - 150$
AFR Hydra Rev Kit - 300$
LT1 Casting heads ported to around 260cfm/190cfm@550. - 250
$ for heads and free port work.
Port matched intake. - Free
Ported TB - Free
Canton 7 quart oil pan. - 200$
Accel 30# Injectors - 250$
Hooker Long Tube Headers (coated) 550$
True 2.5" duals with removable cats and moroso spiral flow mufflers. - 550$
Accel Ignition - 200$
K&N To bolt to TB - 50$
Suspension and Chassis
BMR Tubular K-Member - 350$
BMR Upper and Lower A-Arms - 550$
BMR Subframe Connectors - 120$
BMR Tubular Lower Control Arms - 100$
BMR Strut Tower Brace - 100$
BMR Panhard Rod - 100$
ADDCO Front and rear sway bars (They claim to be 14 lbs lighter than stock each.) - 240$ each
Eibach Drag Launch Kit - 270$
SLP take off front struts - 50$ Pr.
Competition Engineering 3 way adjustable rear shocks - 78$ Pr.
Energy Suspension Motor, Transmission, and Torque Arm bushing. - 75$ total
Extras
VFN 4" Cowl Bolt-On Hood - 375$
Yank 3800 Nitrous Converter - 900$
Sticky Tires and.......
150 HP NX Kit
Add in serious weight loss. ~300lbs.
If you know where I can get any of this stuff cheaper let me know. If you think this car will suck let me know.
Basically if you have any comments on parts I listed like if they suck or personal experience with them please post up and let me know. Thanks and dont be afraid to be harsh. I want to make sure I build this motor right the first time.
Read on for the list and tell me what you think.Car is a 93 Z28.
Motor
Good block work with 4 bolt mains. - Im thinking it will be around 500$
Summit Rebuild kit - Consisting of: - 540$
- Speed Pro Forged Pistons 10.4:1 CR
- Speed Pro Rings
- Main, Cam &, Rod Bearings
- Melling High Volume Oil Pump
- All Needed Gaskets
- Freeze Plugs
Arp Fasteners for the bottom end. - 100$
Crane Roller Lifters - 170$
Comp Cams Hardeded Pushrods - 36$
GM 846 Cam - 230$
1.6 GM Bowtie Roller Rockers (I like the little bowtie on them.) - 300$
Matched Springs - 150$
AFR Hydra Rev Kit - 300$
LT1 Casting heads ported to around 260cfm/190cfm@550. - 250
$ for heads and free port work.
Port matched intake. - Free
Ported TB - Free
Canton 7 quart oil pan. - 200$
Accel 30# Injectors - 250$
Hooker Long Tube Headers (coated) 550$
True 2.5" duals with removable cats and moroso spiral flow mufflers. - 550$
Accel Ignition - 200$
K&N To bolt to TB - 50$
Suspension and Chassis
BMR Tubular K-Member - 350$
BMR Upper and Lower A-Arms - 550$
BMR Subframe Connectors - 120$
BMR Tubular Lower Control Arms - 100$
BMR Strut Tower Brace - 100$
BMR Panhard Rod - 100$
ADDCO Front and rear sway bars (They claim to be 14 lbs lighter than stock each.) - 240$ each
Eibach Drag Launch Kit - 270$
SLP take off front struts - 50$ Pr.
Competition Engineering 3 way adjustable rear shocks - 78$ Pr.
Energy Suspension Motor, Transmission, and Torque Arm bushing. - 75$ total
Extras
VFN 4" Cowl Bolt-On Hood - 375$
Yank 3800 Nitrous Converter - 900$
Sticky Tires and.......
150 HP NX Kit
Add in serious weight loss. ~300lbs.
If you know where I can get any of this stuff cheaper let me know. If you think this car will suck let me know.
Basically if you have any comments on parts I listed like if they suck or personal experience with them please post up and let me know. Thanks and dont be afraid to be harsh. I want to make sure I build this motor right the first time.
Registered User
Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 870
From: Cuyahoga Falls, OHIO
Don't forget to total in tax and shipping, alot of people overlook that. As for the ADDCO sway bars being 14lbs lighter than stock, each, I don't think the stock swaybars weigh 14lbs to begin with. My front one was somewhere around 11 lbs.
Thread Starter
Registered User
Joined: Aug 2000
Posts: 3,523
From: TX
Im doing most of the port work myself. Of course with a little help from some friends that have been doing this stuff for years.
I didn't forget tax and shipping. Im going to pick the stuff up. We have like 10 speed shops in the Dallas area. Tax shouldn't kill me too bad... I hope some of these places have military discounts.
I didn't forget tax and shipping. Im going to pick the stuff up. We have like 10 speed shops in the Dallas area. Tax shouldn't kill me too bad... I hope some of these places have military discounts.
Registered User
Joined: Jul 2002
Posts: 19
From: Alexandria, VA, USA
Why not go with a 355 setup? It would only run ya an additional 8-20 per cyl while it is at the shop. What size TB? You should also factor in a couple of flow test sessions for your heads. If you don't go with a new rear I would strongly suggest a TA girdle even if you stick with the stock gears. Hope this helps....
Thread Starter
Registered User
Joined: Aug 2000
Posts: 3,523
From: TX
Its a street car I dont plan on a 12 bolt for a long time. I think the stock rear can hold together in an auto on the street. I did it in my 97 for 2 years.
It will be a 355. Stock TB with machine work. I plan on flowing the heads.
I think the stock rear can hold together in an auto on the street. I did it in my 97 for 2 years.It will be a 355. Stock TB with machine work. I plan on flowing the heads.
