Parts-crazy
Thread Starter
Banned
Joined: Nov 1999
Posts: 273
From: Frederick, Maryland USA
Parts-crazy
Ok, I got an awesome tax check and I'm looking to spend it. I KNOW I came to the right place. Help me spend it on parts (and labor)! I've got $3700 to play with (That I'm WILLING to spend- got more, just don't want to on car). Send some ideas for your choices!
So far, I've got LT4 production cam, but I'm returning it. I think I may skip the cam altogether and go with bolt-ons. I keep getting tons of contradicting stories regarding cams, and I guess maybe it's not a chance I'm willing to make.
Here's what I'll be using that I currently own:
1. Moroso CAI
2. Airfoil
Here's what I plan on purchasing:
1. Full catback exhaust (any suggestions, and NOT Borla/ preferably stainless steel or aluminum and light)
2. 1.6 roller rockers (is this mod alone worth it?)
3. 52mm throttlebody
4. 3.42s or 3.73s
5. Vigilante 2200-2400rpm stall (and trans cooler)
6. Shift kit (once a competent shop fixes the leak and digs around to see what's wrong with it)
7. Headers (who's the best, guys/ladies?)
So far, I've got LT4 production cam, but I'm returning it. I think I may skip the cam altogether and go with bolt-ons. I keep getting tons of contradicting stories regarding cams, and I guess maybe it's not a chance I'm willing to make.
Here's what I'll be using that I currently own:
1. Moroso CAI
2. Airfoil
Here's what I plan on purchasing:
1. Full catback exhaust (any suggestions, and NOT Borla/ preferably stainless steel or aluminum and light)
2. 1.6 roller rockers (is this mod alone worth it?)
3. 52mm throttlebody
4. 3.42s or 3.73s
5. Vigilante 2200-2400rpm stall (and trans cooler)
6. Shift kit (once a competent shop fixes the leak and digs around to see what's wrong with it)
7. Headers (who's the best, guys/ladies?)
Registered User
Joined: Jun 2002
Posts: 1,123
Re: Parts-crazy
Originally posted by Dan Oldham
Here's what I plan on purchasing:
1. Full catback exhaust (any suggestions, and NOT Borla/ preferably stainless steel or aluminum and light)
2. 1.6 roller rockers (is this mod alone worth it?)
3. 52mm throttlebody
4. 3.42s or 3.73s
5. Vigilante 2200-2400rpm stall (and trans cooler)
6. Shift kit (once a competent shop fixes the leak and digs around to see what's wrong with it)
7. Headers (who's the best, guys/ladies?)
Here's what I plan on purchasing:
1. Full catback exhaust (any suggestions, and NOT Borla/ preferably stainless steel or aluminum and light)
2. 1.6 roller rockers (is this mod alone worth it?)
3. 52mm throttlebody
4. 3.42s or 3.73s
5. Vigilante 2200-2400rpm stall (and trans cooler)
6. Shift kit (once a competent shop fixes the leak and digs around to see what's wrong with it)
7. Headers (who's the best, guys/ladies?)
Ditch the TB, you won't gain anything (or not $300 worth).
For headers, do a search. It depends on emissions. If emissions (and $) isn't an issue, get hooker LTs ceramic coated. If emissions is an issue, MACs, SLP and AS&Ms are good mid length headers and I believe all are emissions OK. I have AS&Ms and love them.
Registered User
Joined: Sep 2000
Posts: 587
From: Orlando, FL, USA
As for the cam idea, there's no contradiction. A good cam choice with the proper mods and programming to back it up will not only make more horsepower, but will respond to future 'breathing' mods as well.
Cut-outs are great when you're on a limited budget, but they lead to other problems such as a rattley interior. If you choose to go with one, I recommend adding an electric cut-out. As for your choice of cat-backs, it's all a matter of preference. It sounds like you aren't too keen on the noise from the borlas (yet another reason for you to avoid a cutout), so you might be more interested in the clean crisp (not raunchy) sound of a Corsa cat-back. They're guaranteed for life, light-weight, sound great, and look good. You're lookin to spend around $700 though.
1.6 roller rockers can be beneficial on their own. Most people w/ over 70K miles really notice a difference because you're putting fresh springs in that don't float as easily towards redline. The actual stamped rockers you're replacing are supposed to be 1.5:1 but they're mass produced and usually come up in the 1.45-1.47:1 range, so you are gaining some much needed lift and duration.
On the issue of a 52mm throttle body, I would agree that without a cam or supercharger your $$ is better spent elsewhere. If you do choose to get one, I recommend reprogramming the computer to compensate for the difference of flow @ any given throttle position. It will make drivability much better.
I love my 3.73s in my automatic, but they're a bit much for some people. Figure on a 3-400 rpm increase in 4th gear over 45mph compared to 2.73s, a 250 rpm gain over 3.23s, and a 100ish rpm gain over 3.42s.
Vigilante is my brand preference for torque converters as well. A lot of people go small and regret it later on the stall. I was told repeatedly back when I got mine that I was nuts to go with a 2800 stall. I actually thought it was perfect and now, wish I had even more. From what I gather, I'd recommend at least a 2600 to you and remind you that you can choose to go up or down later (Vigilante offers one free restalling).
Definitely want a shift kit w/ a higher stall. The stall makes your shifts feel much softer.
Headers,...definitely go w/ a 3/4 inch setup and avoid the BBK/Edelbrocks at all cost. There are too many variables to mention on these, so give me a call or email me to chat more about your choices here. (352)223-2771
Cut-outs are great when you're on a limited budget, but they lead to other problems such as a rattley interior. If you choose to go with one, I recommend adding an electric cut-out. As for your choice of cat-backs, it's all a matter of preference. It sounds like you aren't too keen on the noise from the borlas (yet another reason for you to avoid a cutout), so you might be more interested in the clean crisp (not raunchy) sound of a Corsa cat-back. They're guaranteed for life, light-weight, sound great, and look good. You're lookin to spend around $700 though.
1.6 roller rockers can be beneficial on their own. Most people w/ over 70K miles really notice a difference because you're putting fresh springs in that don't float as easily towards redline. The actual stamped rockers you're replacing are supposed to be 1.5:1 but they're mass produced and usually come up in the 1.45-1.47:1 range, so you are gaining some much needed lift and duration.
On the issue of a 52mm throttle body, I would agree that without a cam or supercharger your $$ is better spent elsewhere. If you do choose to get one, I recommend reprogramming the computer to compensate for the difference of flow @ any given throttle position. It will make drivability much better.
I love my 3.73s in my automatic, but they're a bit much for some people. Figure on a 3-400 rpm increase in 4th gear over 45mph compared to 2.73s, a 250 rpm gain over 3.23s, and a 100ish rpm gain over 3.42s.
Vigilante is my brand preference for torque converters as well. A lot of people go small and regret it later on the stall. I was told repeatedly back when I got mine that I was nuts to go with a 2800 stall. I actually thought it was perfect and now, wish I had even more. From what I gather, I'd recommend at least a 2600 to you and remind you that you can choose to go up or down later (Vigilante offers one free restalling).
Definitely want a shift kit w/ a higher stall. The stall makes your shifts feel much softer.
Headers,...definitely go w/ a 3/4 inch setup and avoid the BBK/Edelbrocks at all cost. There are too many variables to mention on these, so give me a call or email me to chat more about your choices here. (352)223-2771
Thread Starter
Banned
Joined: Nov 1999
Posts: 273
From: Frederick, Maryland USA
Originally posted by LT1Brutus
As for the cam idea, there's no contradiction. A good cam choice with the proper mods and programming to back it up will not only make more horsepower, but will respond to future 'breathing' mods as well.
Cut-outs are great when you're on a limited budget, but they lead to other problems such as a rattley interior. If you choose to go with one, I recommend adding an electric cut-out. As for your choice of cat-backs, it's all a matter of preference. It sounds like you aren't too keen on the noise from the borlas (yet another reason for you to avoid a cutout), so you might be more interested in the clean crisp (not raunchy) sound of a Corsa cat-back. They're guaranteed for life, light-weight, sound great, and look good. You're lookin to spend around $700 though.
1.6 roller rockers can be beneficial on their own. Most people w/ over 70K miles really notice a difference because you're putting fresh springs in that don't float as easily towards redline. The actual stamped rockers you're replacing are supposed to be 1.5:1 but they're mass produced and usually come up in the 1.45-1.47:1 range, so you are gaining some much needed lift and duration.
On the issue of a 52mm throttle body, I would agree that without a cam or supercharger your $$ is better spent elsewhere. If you do choose to get one, I recommend reprogramming the computer to compensate for the difference of flow @ any given throttle position. It will make drivability much better.
I love my 3.73s in my automatic, but they're a bit much for some people. Figure on a 3-400 rpm increase in 4th gear over 45mph compared to 2.73s, a 250 rpm gain over 3.23s, and a 100ish rpm gain over 3.42s.
Vigilante is my brand preference for torque converters as well. A lot of people go small and regret it later on the stall. I was told repeatedly back when I got mine that I was nuts to go with a 2800 stall. I actually thought it was perfect and now, wish I had even more. From what I gather, I'd recommend at least a 2600 to you and remind you that you can choose to go up or down later (Vigilante offers one free restalling).
Definitely want a shift kit w/ a higher stall. The stall makes your shifts feel much softer.
Headers,...definitely go w/ a 3/4 inch setup and avoid the BBK/Edelbrocks at all cost. There are too many variables to mention on these, so give me a call or email me to chat more about your choices here. (352)223-2771
As for the cam idea, there's no contradiction. A good cam choice with the proper mods and programming to back it up will not only make more horsepower, but will respond to future 'breathing' mods as well.
Cut-outs are great when you're on a limited budget, but they lead to other problems such as a rattley interior. If you choose to go with one, I recommend adding an electric cut-out. As for your choice of cat-backs, it's all a matter of preference. It sounds like you aren't too keen on the noise from the borlas (yet another reason for you to avoid a cutout), so you might be more interested in the clean crisp (not raunchy) sound of a Corsa cat-back. They're guaranteed for life, light-weight, sound great, and look good. You're lookin to spend around $700 though.
1.6 roller rockers can be beneficial on their own. Most people w/ over 70K miles really notice a difference because you're putting fresh springs in that don't float as easily towards redline. The actual stamped rockers you're replacing are supposed to be 1.5:1 but they're mass produced and usually come up in the 1.45-1.47:1 range, so you are gaining some much needed lift and duration.
On the issue of a 52mm throttle body, I would agree that without a cam or supercharger your $$ is better spent elsewhere. If you do choose to get one, I recommend reprogramming the computer to compensate for the difference of flow @ any given throttle position. It will make drivability much better.
I love my 3.73s in my automatic, but they're a bit much for some people. Figure on a 3-400 rpm increase in 4th gear over 45mph compared to 2.73s, a 250 rpm gain over 3.23s, and a 100ish rpm gain over 3.42s.
Vigilante is my brand preference for torque converters as well. A lot of people go small and regret it later on the stall. I was told repeatedly back when I got mine that I was nuts to go with a 2800 stall. I actually thought it was perfect and now, wish I had even more. From what I gather, I'd recommend at least a 2600 to you and remind you that you can choose to go up or down later (Vigilante offers one free restalling).
Definitely want a shift kit w/ a higher stall. The stall makes your shifts feel much softer.
Headers,...definitely go w/ a 3/4 inch setup and avoid the BBK/Edelbrocks at all cost. There are too many variables to mention on these, so give me a call or email me to chat more about your choices here. (352)223-2771
The more I think about it, why the hell would someone recommend a production cam?
Registered User
Joined: Sep 2000
Posts: 587
From: Orlando, FL, USA
Dealership policy varies widely since there's no "central command" of them. It depends on the dealership policy, the manager of the parts department, and the guy that's helping you. If I were you I'd try to find someone on the for sale board there that is looking for a mild cam for a blower car or something to that nature. The added numbers on that cam are very minimal but would be most noticed by someone pushing boost. Also, perhaps someone that's rather shy about the idea of cams, or concerned about other issues might be interested in something a tad bit larger than stock, but still offering factory-like drivability. I really wish they'd named that LT4 Hotcam something different since I've seen multiple people accidentally end up w/ the LT4 production cam.
Thread Starter
Banned
Joined: Nov 1999
Posts: 273
From: Frederick, Maryland USA
Originally posted by LT1Brutus
Dealership policy varies widely since there's no "central command" of them. It depends on the dealership policy, the manager of the parts department, and the guy that's helping you. If I were you I'd try to find someone on the for sale board there that is looking for a mild cam for a blower car or something to that nature. The added numbers on that cam are very minimal but would be most noticed by someone pushing boost. Also, perhaps someone that's rather shy about the idea of cams, or concerned about other issues might be interested in something a tad bit larger than stock, but still offering factory-like drivability. I really wish they'd named that LT4 Hotcam something different since I've seen multiple people accidentally end up w/ the LT4 production cam.
Dealership policy varies widely since there's no "central command" of them. It depends on the dealership policy, the manager of the parts department, and the guy that's helping you. If I were you I'd try to find someone on the for sale board there that is looking for a mild cam for a blower car or something to that nature. The added numbers on that cam are very minimal but would be most noticed by someone pushing boost. Also, perhaps someone that's rather shy about the idea of cams, or concerned about other issues might be interested in something a tad bit larger than stock, but still offering factory-like drivability. I really wish they'd named that LT4 Hotcam something different since I've seen multiple people accidentally end up w/ the LT4 production cam.
Registered User
Joined: May 2001
Posts: 415
From: Raleigh, NC
Dan, the Hotcam will probably suit you well. The car will drive more or less like stock with a good tune, all you will notice is the loping idle. Team it with a set of emission legal headers and a good catback and it will pass emissions.
Registered User
Joined: May 2001
Posts: 156
From: Macon Ga / Shaw AFB, SC
Originally posted by 96-speed
hotcam kit, Jethot LTs with emission stuff, cutout, stall/shiftkit, drag radials.
You'll gain ~50 rwhp and probably lose over a second in the quarter mile.
Ryan
hotcam kit, Jethot LTs with emission stuff, cutout, stall/shiftkit, drag radials.
You'll gain ~50 rwhp and probably lose over a second in the quarter mile.
Ryan
Registered User
Joined: Sep 2000
Posts: 587
From: Orlando, FL, USA
The concept of drivablility is on of those "in the eye of the beholder" things. My Dad refuses to drive my car. Says its touchy, moody, idles rough, etc. My mom on the other hand just thinks its too loud. There are people that ride in my car and find it ridiculous that its a daily driver, and others (most) who wouldn't know the difference between a heads & cam car like mine, or a cat-back exhaust. With good tuning, you eliminate off idle stumbling, "lopyness" won't cause a problem unless your idles to low, and a good torque converter to match the idle and cam will eliminate you riding on the brakes in traffic. On the other hand, there are the people out there who wouldn't accept my 925-975 rpm idle as streetable. What's the definition of acceptable though? I've got a buddy back home w/ a Pro-street style Blazer w/ a blown 383 in it and a solid roller. His idle is 2,300Rpms! That to me is unstreetable, yet he puts around town in it EVERYDAY since its his only car.......streetableness is a tricky subject. W/ the LT4 prodo cam, you'd hardly notice a difference, in fact, with tuning it might even become more streetable; yet mod for mod you're talking about a cam that is worth 10-15 hp over the stock LT1 and maybe makes power for another 400 rpms. With the LT4 cam and the right combo to back it up, your peak hp will jump from the 5700 area up to 6300 or even 6400. In fact, the whole power band will move up leaving less power in the creeping around town rpm band. Personally I could care less. When I romp on it whether it be from a roll or from a stop my car never goes below 3,600 rpms because of the gearing and the relatively loose converter, so I don't need power below that number. Above that number the power gain from the heads and cam is amazing and honestly probably would keep making power for another 200 rpms after I shift if I had the right springs, retainers, and lifters coupled w/ a larger throttle body and some long tubes; whereas with the stock setup the fun was over anywhere past 5900 rpms and programming for higher shifts actually was detrimental. All this goes back to say, it's all a matter of opinion. Kinda like economics really: for everything you do, you choose not to do something else, EVEN if you choose to do nothing.
I guess I should've just said, "Yeah man, the LT4 HC rocks!", but then some meat head would say, "NO, you'll regret getting that tiny little cam, get a CC306." Man, here comes a size matters argument!
I guess I should've just said, "Yeah man, the LT4 HC rocks!", but then some meat head would say, "NO, you'll regret getting that tiny little cam, get a CC306." Man, here comes a size matters argument!
Registered User
Joined: Apr 1999
Posts: 514
From: Boulder, CO USA
I love my LT1, but since you're at the beginning of the curve, you could think about selling the '94 and upgrading to a '98 or '99 with the extra money. You'll gain as much HP as you will with the bolt-ons you're thinking about and you'll have a good base to build from. The LS1s I'm seeing at the dyno are pulling 325 at the wheels with just a lid and headers... Just a lid and catback will get you about 300 at the wheels. If you hate the look of the new ones and love the old ones, then by all means build what you've got. It'll just cost more to get there in the long run.
Just something to consider, since you're considering...
Just something to consider, since you're considering...
Registered User
Joined: May 2000
Posts: 1,327
From: Under my Car as usual :)
Go with bolt ons. Get a stall and a trans cooler. Get suspension stuff. Make it hook !!!! I spin through the first 60', the second 60', then start spinning again after the 1/8th and i'm netting low 15's 
. You can get 12's with bolt ons and suspension work and a nice stall, and not kill your drivablility or emissions.
Another idea is a Supercharger with some reasonable boost. Shop smart and you can get a helluva deal
If ya want a TB, let me know. I'm starting production again soon
-Shannon
. You can get 12's with bolt ons and suspension work and a nice stall, and not kill your drivablility or emissions.Another idea is a Supercharger with some reasonable boost. Shop smart and you can get a helluva deal
If ya want a TB, let me know. I'm starting production again soon
-Shannon
Thread Starter
Banned
Joined: Nov 1999
Posts: 273
From: Frederick, Maryland USA
Originally posted by TonyJ
I love my LT1, but since you're at the beginning of the curve, you could think about selling the '94 and upgrading to a '98 or '99 with the extra money. You'll gain as much HP as you will with the bolt-ons you're thinking about and you'll have a good base to build from. The LS1s I'm seeing at the dyno are pulling 325 at the wheels with just a lid and headers... Just a lid and catback will get you about 300 at the wheels. If you hate the look of the new ones and love the old ones, then by all means build what you've got. It'll just cost more to get there in the long run.
Just something to consider, since you're considering...
I love my LT1, but since you're at the beginning of the curve, you could think about selling the '94 and upgrading to a '98 or '99 with the extra money. You'll gain as much HP as you will with the bolt-ons you're thinking about and you'll have a good base to build from. The LS1s I'm seeing at the dyno are pulling 325 at the wheels with just a lid and headers... Just a lid and catback will get you about 300 at the wheels. If you hate the look of the new ones and love the old ones, then by all means build what you've got. It'll just cost more to get there in the long run.
Just something to consider, since you're considering...
I think I've made it clear on this site what I REALLY think of LS1s.As far as I'm concerned, LS1s can kiss my B4C's ***......and plenty of them have......until I let some incompetent jackasses rebuild my transmission, and now I've lost a good 4-5mph in the 1/4. I KNEW something was "off" when I got that car back. I just didn't know how bad it was off. Stupid me for bringing it to the track Saturday. Now I'm on a "parts-buying spree." I wouldn't even mess with a 1995 Mustang GT now.
Freakin' go from 13.60s at around 103mph to 14.1s at 98.8. WTF!.....but that's fine. I'm calling my mechanic this week and getting it into him to do the trans job right.
No LS1 for me. If it ain't iron block/aluminum head, I don't want anything to do with it.....except for I WILL make an exception for a 1969 ZL1 Camaro.
