LT1 Based Engine Tech 1993-1997 LT1/LT4 Engine Related

pacesetter LTs install... driver side?

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old Apr 29, 2009 | 05:18 PM
  #1  
96LT1TX's Avatar
Thread Starter
Registered User
 
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 1,035
From: Houston, TX
pacesetter LTs install... driver side?

So, I have had shorties for 8 years now... was finally time to upgrade. I got the passenger side in with little work, but the driver site is much tougher it looks.

How far do I have to lift the motor? Do I HAVE to disconnect the steering shaft or can I raise it high enough to not? That bolt is so rusted shut it will probably never come off.

Lucky I didn't reconnect the motor mount bolt nuts, just put the bolts in.

Thanks in advance.
Old Apr 29, 2009 | 05:56 PM
  #2  
Kevin Blown 95 TA's Avatar
Registered User
 
Joined: Oct 2001
Posts: 2,684
I did one of those jobs once and didn't raise the engine, just took the steering linkage off. Maybe soak both bolts with some penetrating oil for a day or so. Worst thing that happened with our install was having one of the bolts not even be able to go through the hole in the header flange cause the primary tube was in the way. We found this out before trying to put the header in there, or we never would have got it in. We had to elongate the hole and installing that side was still a PITA.
Old Apr 29, 2009 | 06:11 PM
  #3  
revolution79z28's Avatar
Registered User
 
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 58
I have pacesetter LT's on my '93 and I did it on the ground but I had the car high enough to move things around a bit. The stearing linkage did have to be disconnected but I didn't have a problem getting it loose. It was truly a PITA but its worth it.
Old Apr 29, 2009 | 07:36 PM
  #4  
96LT1TX's Avatar
Thread Starter
Registered User
 
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 1,035
From: Houston, TX
Hmm ok. Besides WD40 what else is good to soak to get that bolt loose?
Old Apr 29, 2009 | 07:50 PM
  #5  
a4z28's Avatar
Registered User
 
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 515
From: NY
Use pb blaster, that stuff works wonders.
Old Apr 29, 2009 | 10:33 PM
  #6  
onefastmx5's Avatar
Registered User
 
Joined: Dec 2008
Posts: 437
From: ABQ, NM
I used PB blaster as well. And +1 on linkage removal.
Old Apr 29, 2009 | 10:35 PM
  #7  
'94 Bad A Z28's Avatar
Registered User
 
Joined: Jan 2001
Posts: 2,905
From: Orlando,Fl
Just disconnect the steering shaft and you don't have to raise it at all.
Old Apr 29, 2009 | 10:36 PM
  #8  
revolution79z28's Avatar
Registered User
 
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 58
PB Blaster and a good impact works pretty damn good.
Old Apr 29, 2009 | 10:40 PM
  #9  
'94 Bad A Z28's Avatar
Registered User
 
Joined: Jan 2001
Posts: 2,905
From: Orlando,Fl
Originally Posted by '94 Bad A Z28
Just disconnect the steering shaft and you don't have to raise it at all.


Well let me say that I disconnected the steering shaft and that's all I had to do.
Old Apr 29, 2009 | 10:44 PM
  #10  
revolution79z28's Avatar
Registered User
 
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 58
Awesome. Hope you enjoy.
Old Apr 30, 2009 | 03:19 PM
  #11  
Venomous360's Avatar
Registered User
 
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 404
From: Northwest Corner Ohio, Wauseon
Now on to all the annoying rattles and bangs that come with LTS. I didnt have any problems until I pulle the motor and put it all back in. Not the Heat sheild for the Cat Rattles at IDLE. And there is NO CAT, but the Header sits ups against the heat sheild, dont think you could even get a peice of paper in between them. LOL
Old Apr 30, 2009 | 09:00 PM
  #12  
96LT1TX's Avatar
Thread Starter
Registered User
 
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 1,035
From: Houston, TX
I saw that on the passenger side. I have roughly the same clearance there and to the housing of the motor mount. I have no carpet, no exhaust past the headers, so it is going to be loud undoubtedly. I may put a true dual system on it eventually, but I cant wait for LOUD noises.

Going downstairs right now to pull off the steering linkage and hopefully drop this thing right in.
Old Apr 30, 2009 | 09:16 PM
  #13  
bombebomb's Avatar
Registered User
 
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 1,855
From: Ohio
Originally Posted by 96LT1TX
Hmm ok. Besides WD40 what else is good to soak to get that bolt loose?
Originally Posted by a4z28
Use pb blaster, that stuff works wonders.
This, we also have some sort of conklin rust bomb spray we use, works well.
Old Apr 30, 2009 | 09:56 PM
  #14  
96LT1TX's Avatar
Thread Starter
Registered User
 
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 1,035
From: Houston, TX
K, I got the bolt out, but now what? heh thought it would just pull right off. I hit it with a rubber mallet for a while with no luck. How do you pull that out of the slot? Just smack it for a while? I will do a search see what I see.
Old Apr 30, 2009 | 10:47 PM
  #15  
96LT1TX's Avatar
Thread Starter
Registered User
 
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 1,035
From: Houston, TX
MAKING PROGRESS!!

Ok,
The header is SO CLOSE to being in place, I will keep searching for advice. What i am seeing though is that at the last primary on the driver side the lip of the header flange will not go past the lip on top of the head (where the valvecover goes). The last primary is hitting the part of the steering column that goes into the firewall. I think this may be the issue, and have seen people dremel or elongate the holes in the firewall that these sit through... Do I need to do this to get the clearance?

Anyone else run into this? Back to searching.



All times are GMT -5. The time now is 07:47 AM.