I've done a lot of searches but I still have some questions about installing my headers and I want to make sure I do it right the first time. Any suggestions are appreciated, so here they are.....

1. Should I buy new gaskets and header bolts? which ones?
2. Where is the safest spot to put the car on stands and how high does it need to be?
3. Do I need to remove the coolant sensor and drain the coolant?
4. My car is a 97 and has 38000 miles. Should I replace plugs and wires?
5. What is the most useful tip you can give me?
6. Do I need any special tools?

Thanks

 

1. yes on the gasket get some felpro's, and the headers should come with new bolts.
2. jack stands can be on the rubber pieces behind the front wheels.
3. i did, im not sure if you really have to but i think the sensor is in the way to put in the drivers side header.
4. the wires arent bad, but its reccomended to get otvc wires from www.thunderracing.com since the route that the older ones go have a big chance getting burnt by these bigger headers.
5. the emissions make it harder to put in the passenger side one, so you might have to bend that small tube, and the passenger side is way harder than the drivers side.
i tried my best, good luck!

 

1) Get new gaskets. I bought some Percy's Dead Soft, they are $40 but worth it. No leaks, no problems. As for bolts, I bought some fancy ARP 3/4" 12 pt bolts. They were a nightmare and not long enough for my tastes. Get the 1" ones that are 6 points to save yourself a headache later. They might be sold under a big block chevy, so they will come with 16.

2) Pretty high from what I understand. I can't answer this since I did it at the shop I work at

3) I didn't but if you do, just remember it is one less thing you can break. It is plastic, and by the engine so it has been heat treated over the years = fragile.

4) I just used zip ties in key locations to keep my wires away. They are close, but like 3/4" at the closest spots on mine.

5) Sorry, can't help since I got the full race version

 

this hear is a mod, to where you cant do stuff the cheap way....buy the percey dead soft gaskets (Autozone sells them) and get some locking header bolts (Breslin, Stage 8) DO NOT USE THE BOLTS THE HEADERS CAME WITH!! you will cause yourself alot of pain. mine have backed out on me so many times until i got locking bolts.

 

I don't mean to Hi-jack your thread, but they make emissions legal LT's?? I thought the only emissions legal headers were shorties & mids? I guess I was wrong! LOL
Mike

 

the longtubes dont carry a CARB number with them, but they do make them to hook up to your EGR and AIR system.

 

Yeah I would DEFINITELY get new header gaskets and bolts. I used Mr Gasket ultra seals with my mac headers and never had a problem, I bought another set for these and hopefully I don't have any problems with this set. I never knew about the percey's gaskets. From what the guys above me said they must work. I used stage 8 locking header bolts. They are 6 point as opposed to 12 point but they were all pretty easy to get in. The only one that is a major pain is the forward most one on the passenger side.
I put the jackstands where the lower A-arms connect to the K-member.
Thats not the coolant sensor, thats the temperature gauge sensor. I removed it. I don't think coolant will come out but im not 100% sure on that since my car didn't have any coolant in it when I did my header swap.
Now would be the time to do it. I bought taylor over the valve cover wires and I really like them.
patience!
You'll probably have to disconnect the steering shaft. its not that hard. just take off the cover, remove the bolt at the bottom and the bolt at the top. I had to tap the bottom part upwards with a hammer to get it off. once its out of the way the header slid right in easily.
You won't be able to reuse the alternator bracket that attaches to the forward most header bolt on the passenger side. I don't think you ABSOLUTELY need this bracket. it seems pretty solid with the other ones.
don't put the emissions stuff on the headers until you get all the bolts, spark plugs, and wires in. I have non-emissions pacesetters but my old mac headers had emissions and reaching some things with the tubes in place can be a pain.
After you get the headers in, work from the bottom. I did an AIR pump delete so theres alot of room on the drivers side to work. You can try to take it off just to install the headers. It is really easy to get to and opens up some space so you can get your arm up in there. On the passenger side working from the top is probably easier. just be prepared to stretch out pretty far.
as for the spark plugs I'm pretty sure I did all of the plugs from under the car except for the #2 and #4.
dont freak out when:
the drivers side collector points at your floor.
the paint on your headers peels off before your eyes after 5 minutes of run time (if you just have the painted ones.)
Angled wrenches work wonders. I didnt use a ratchet anywhere. a spark plug socket with a 6 point end and a wrench works well also.
A friend to help out is nice too.

I got some pictures from my install, but not too many.
http://community.webshots.com/photo/...64521152cRChEv
http://community.webshots.com/photo/...64521152qoLhBS
http://community.webshots.com/photo/...64521152BGIXBl
http://community.webshots.com/photo/...64521152AiwFEB

 

Thanks for the comments guys!

 

They are technically not emissions legal since the move the placment of the catalytic converters, but the Pacesetter long tubes do offer provisions for the AIR and EGR systems.

 

Be prepared to unbolt the passenger side engine mount to lift the engine to get the passenger header in. I didn't remove the coolant sensor on the driver's side, I had plenty of room with the steering shaft disconnected. All I can say is good luck with the passenger side, I had a heck of a time getting my emission's headers in on that side. But all is good now!