First let me say ...

Great Welds
Great Coating
Overall Nice Design.

Id give them a 8.5/10 because the AIR and EGR fittings SUCKED.

For the air fittings, I had to go buy two fittings ( One for each AIR adapter) Size was 5/8 X 1/2 Male Flare ( Hard to find actually ) Then you need to bend the metal AIR tubes like a mother to get it on on the passenger side. Driver side, take the rubber 90* off with the end fittings on it, thread it into the headers, THEN hook the rubber 90 up to the metal tube ( which needs to be bent OUT some ) and clamp that bitch down tight. The Gaskets arent as bad as everyone made them out to be. I think they seem OK. No leaks.

To do passanger side:
Remove STARTER
Remove ALT
Remove the manifold ( Duh )
Bend the metal AIR lines
Tie up ONE plug wire that gets too close with a zip tie.
Get the car WAY up off the ground ( Jackstands arent high enough, them on a 4 inch conrete slab worked though.)
Make sure you have someone to hold the header from underneath while you put the first bolt in, and dont forget to use like Mega Copper silicone on the gasket as well. Header goes in from bottom. EGR is kind of a bitch, gotta bend the pipe a little and stuff, its hard to do with one person, and not enough room for two anyways ...

Driver Side:
Disconnect steering linkage ( Take the bolt out, then fold it up, put headers in part way, slip it past and push em in the rest of the way ... from the bottom )
Disconnect the old AIR line and bend it like I said above ...
Remove the back 3 plugs ...
Remove the Temperature sensor in the head ... ( Watch out for Antifreeze )
Remove the Oil filter.
Slip it up in from the bottom also ... Needs to be hella-high.

I really like my headers, if you have a convertible though watch out tryin to a get the Y pipe hooked up ... Im lost and confused now and cant keep driving with open headers cause i live rite by the cop station ... Nor do I want to burn up my valves ... and I like having tourque below 1500RPM's lol

 

Thanks for the info. So howz the overall performance? Can you feel anything and if so in what rpm range.

 

Less tourque from Idle to about 1500 ( But rite now im open headers, that may change once i have a little thing called backpressure again lol ) Not too much of a difference from 1500 to 2500. But around 3000 theres a HUGE difference, and the top end pulls HARD. I love it. A bigger power gain thatn I thought. My ***-O-Meter tells me its definatly way faster, I think with a good launch I could pick on a stock vert LS1

 

I'm in the middle of installing my Pacesetter headers. I was very displeased when they arrived because there were 3 holes in the welds on the flange and I had to call and get a replacement. Anyways, I spent the downtime installing the passenger side one. Had to jack up the motor waay up on that side. It was a bitch to get in, but it is now in and everything on that side is all good.. The second to furthest rear plug wire on that side touches the header, so I'll have to zip-tie it to the other wires. Now I just have to take the steering linkage off so I can get the manifold out of there, but I don't really know how to take the linkage out.. I'm going to go mess around with it in a few minutes and hope I find the two 11mm nuts I keep reading about.. Are the nuts the ones right on the u-joint? I really want to get this finished today, the downtime from the replacement header has put my car down for almost a week!

 

Here's a few things that will make it easier ...

With the steering, have the tires pointing straight, Then you should have decent access at ONE bolt in the middle of the steering shaft thingy rite above ( Between firewall and u-joints) the ujoints. Unbolt that, then take a mallet and tap the shaft towards the front of the car ...

Once it is disconnected, you'll need to get someone who is somehwat mechanically inclined, to get under the car and feed the header up, once it is up in about half way, you can push the linkage DOWN towards the bottom of the car ( Tight fit, it WILL touch the headers but ifg you push itll go past them)

Once its past, pull the headers up in, and have someone hold them from underneath while you get the first bolt started ( First one sure is a mother ****er ) To get the driver side in, you need to take the temp sending unit out of the head, and remove 3 plugs I think, the 3 rearmost on that side, oil filter as well.

On the passanger side, I didnt have to take any plugs out, nor did I jack the motor up.

I didnt have to jack it up though for EITHER header ... I dont see why anyone would have too assuming they get the car high enough. I had my car to the point that it was basically dangerously high on jackstands ... Its the only way to get them in without jacking the engine up ... I out the jackstands on 4" SOLID CONCRETE blocks ... And I had the stands as high as they would go ... I couldnt get it any higher without a lift, it was as high as the floor jack would lift it Hence the reason I needed the blocks. BE CAREFUL if you do this. And DONT lean on the car too much dont want it to shift off the stands ... But ... Like this, once I removed the plugs, temp sensor, and filter, and the thing wuith sliding it over the steering linkage, they went rite in, never touched a motor mount...

I did have a wire on the passanger side about 1/8th of an inch from touching the header primary tube. I think it was the 2nd closest to the back of the engine. So i wrapped it with electircal tape ( heat resistant ) then ziptied it to another wire to hold it in tighter.

Good luck and sorry to hear about your headers being F'ed. Mine came with awesome welds, great coating, no problems at all with them, aside from the fact that the AIR fittings didnt match and I had to go out and by 5/8"flareX1/2Male fittings for each side.

They did kinda dick me though and sent me the wrong O2 connecters ... Overall though theyre service was great, they sent me out the new ones they were to my door step in 2 days ... and they sent me the thing so i dont have to pay shippin sending the wrong ones back ... Maybe you'll luck out with the headers ...

Goodluck with your install. Dont try getting them in by yourself ( Need someone underneath to hold while you start bolts ... ) and use a good silicone sealant on the gaskets as well ... I used Mega Copper, No leaks ...

 

my friend went with the pacesetters and they are awesome great quality and awesome price i would highly recommend them.

 

I think youve been hyped up on this no backpressure burn a valve and loose low end bs enough to think you feel slower at low rpm I had stock manifolds with a dump then put OPEN jethots on and it was not slower anywhere, hell I had as much torque at 2k rpm as I had at peak before the headers. I have run the car with open longtubes for nearly a year and havent had anything bad happen motor wise, there are also cops everywhere and hell I drove next to one for a few miles so I really dont think they will care as long as your not romping on it trying to be loud. It only seems utterly rediculous right now but you get used to it and realize its not terrible enough to get you pulled over in MOST cases not all, like I said try to be nice to the right pedal at night and stuff. ALSO VERY IMPORTANT, or so Ive been told, that if there isnt atleast 8" of collector pipe after the o2 sensors you need to add some pipe or it will read outside air through reversion and make the motor run terribly rich and ruin plugs etc... I went to pronto muffler and had 12" of 3" pipe with a flange made.... sounds badass with open headers doesnt it!?

 

Got the headers in today! All finished up!! I just took the steering linkage all the way out, I had my car on the jack stands as high as they would go plus a 2x4 sitting on them, jacked up the motor on the driver's side.. Had it all prepped, and header just went right in! Didn't even have to take out the plugs!

Same with mine, just ziptied it to the other wire.

Man, I know exactly what you mean. I thought my cutout was SOO loud when I first installed it, but now I know it's not enough to draw too much attention.. But seriously, I don't think I'm going to get used to the open headers, HOLY CRAP! lol

Anyways, this is awesome!!

 

Poik, my car and yours basically have the same mods rite now... What cat back do you have ? Did you hook up to an ORY ?

We both got LPE CAI ( I like it better then the KN one ... Actually someone told me it has a bigger K&N Filter then the K&N FIPK does ) and Pacesetter long tubes, bother are sticks ... If you run it at the track Id like to hear how you do ... I wont be gettin the chance to go anytime soon so ... Just want a rough idea of what the gains are like at the track.


O and Open Headers is insanely loud. I live rite by a borough building though so I really cant get away with being loud when all the cops know me and are already sick of me ( Mysterios tire marks all over the community )


Ok so im not THAT wreckles, but still, I think id get busted for open headers pretty fast. EVERYONE looks when you go past with open headers.

 

I have the stock exhaust system from the cat-back, but I have a DMH electronic cutout. On Friday I have an appointment at an exhaust shop to get a 3" ORY fabbed up and installed. Hopefully Ion will send me my tune in the next few days also..

Last time I was at the track was my first time ever: 14.181 @ 100.15mph, 2.230 60ft
That was on the original street tires, 245mm.. Since then I have installed everything in my signature past !Wipers.. Hmm, I fixed my wiper motor, I guess I can take that out of my signature now, lol. Meh. Anyways, this guy said I could borrow his 255mm BFG DRs to go to the track.. If I get anything under 13.6 I will be really happy! I'm mainly worried about my 60ft, because I really want to get it down to 2.0 or less. We'll see, I'll try to remember to PM you when I end up going, definately before the month is over, but not within the next week!

Edit: And tomorrow I am picking up an aluminum LS1 driveshaft for $45!