Getting some codes in the car and it's causing a very rough start and moreso a no start.

Opti Harness??

The P1371 has always been present and even with clearing it, the code returns. The P0372 is "new" and I don't know what the heck is causing it but possibly a bad harness. I've taken it off two separate occasions and checked for resistance and continuity and it's passed both times so I keep thinking in the back of my mind that perhaps the cam sensor in the opti itself is taking a crap.

One other point, moot at best, is that the Crankshaft Pos Sensor is still original while I've replaced everything else...thoughts??

Follow up from https://www.camaroz28.com/forums/sho...d.php?t=663602.

As always, thanks....

-Ivan

PS-The car's new name is Christine.....like the movie.

 

Have you checked the pins for damage or corrosion? Is the clip still there that holds the harness on the Opti tower? Have you checked the gray connector on the side of the intake manifold?

If the Opti is new and the engine is running, its got to be an intermittent problem.

 

It is very intermittant Fred.

And getting worse.

It was running really good for a solid day...then started here and there. I seriously thought it was my harness pluggin into the ICM. Sent out for a new one. Installed it and it wants to start but when it does, it is rough!! Smoke and all....gotta open the garage to vent out!

The 372 is a new code for me. For this car.

I'll check the carside of the connector when I get home. I'm guessing I should be looking for bad connectors/corrosion since I can't "test it" or anything right??

Clip is still on the long *** plug going into the Opti..yes.

I'll let ya know when I check it tonight.

btw-I was looking at some of my paperwork for the car....I've put a total of 1117 miles on my car in the last 8 months. That's how long this car has been intermittant...lol. SUcks!!!

Thanks Fred,
Ivan

 

The grey connector on the side of the intake manifold, could someone explain why that would click? Have you happen to notice yours doing that while trying to start it? or while starting moved the wire around and heard it click?

 

Just walked in the door from work.....
Tried to start it and it's always made some really wierd noises with KOEO turn.


Almost like a bunch of rocks tumbling inside something. Never really thought about it till you just mentioned noises and clicks.

Mine doesn't come from that side of the engine. I think my AIR pump is just a POS...

Gonna try and see if my connectors are AFU....will LUK.

-Ivan

 

P0372 Distributor Ignition (DI) high resolution circuit

P1371 Distributor Ignition (DI) low resolution circuit

Concentrate on the opti and opti harness.

 

Man, everything looks great as far as the harness and all of the female and male connections. Wonder if they just might not be tight enough. ?? I would think that it would at least fire up and run ugly.... ??

I can't believe, or should I say I don't want to believe, that this new Delphi opti could be F'n up.

Worth pullin it again for a third time or wth should I do??

Car won't even kick to start....straight cranking....dismal like a ****!!

-Ivan

 

IMHO, you should replace the rotating optical sensor part of the opti, but whatever you do, don't replace with anything except the ACDelco part.

I had an Autozone opti that was giving me an intermittent P1371 for about a month. The car would just shut off while driving and would shut off for like a split second consistently at 3000rpm.

I replaced the wiring harness because it was a brand new opti with less than 1000 miles on it, so it couldn't be bad, right? Wrong. It was bad even though it all looked brand new. I was really jacked that I had to tear it all apart again.
Ordered a ACDelco from Summit and everything has been fine since.

If you are getting that code and the harness is new, and connected tight, the optical sensor is probably toast.

Hope this helps

 

AC/Delco = Delphi. He has a brand new factory Opti. If the optical sensor is deceased, it should be covered under warranty.

 

Not trying to hijack post, but, maybe he will be in this boat in the near future........
I bought my opti from Cromer, less then 6 months ago, is that still under warranty?
I am having the same problems as the OP and still believe mine is the opti.

 

I just looked at my receipt and my Delphi has a 2 year warranty so....

Maybe I'm gonna have to pull it and send it in...

Dont know how I can tell this is it for sure..
-Ivan

 

Pull all the plugs so you can turn it over easier with a breaker bar. With KO put a meter lead in the A terminal were the red/black wire is and the other lead on the pink black wire. Both going to the opti. Rotate it slowly and look for a change from 5 to 0 or 0 to 5VDC. If it changes there, do the same thing only this time at the PCM. Black connector pins 2 & 3. Or just start at the PCM and then go to the opti if you don't see it at the PCM.

 

You talking about on the ICM to the Coil?? ...or the OPTI to the PCM??

I guess I could look at the diagram first....then figure out what your talking about.

Just basically checkin it to make sure I got cranking power (1-4vdc)??? LIke on Shoebox's site??

Thanks for the info,
Ivan

 

You could unhook any injector, then use a test light connected from one pin to the other on the injector plug you took off. Now crank the engine. If the test light blinks on and off while cranking, then the opti is atleast sending out the low res pulse to the PCM. If you have between 1-4v on the ICM per SHoebox's site, this also confirms the PCM is getting the low res pulse and is telling the ICM to fire the coil. If this all checks, then see if the coil is firing by unhooking the coil wire from the opti and cranking to see if it sparks using a spark tester, or just grounding it with a screwdriver to see if it sparks. If this checks, then see if the opti is sending the spark back out to the plugs, by unhooking a plug wire and seeing if it sparks while cranking. If all of this is good, then the engine should run. If not, tell us which test failed and we can try to help from there.

 

2 problems with checking the IC signal for 1 to 4 volts. First of all if it's running, you need not bother to check it. Second, it's not a DC signal. So if your meter is set to DC, it won't see it. It's AC.

Do the test I mentioned.