Because it wasn't over heating prior to my changing the Opti and waterpump, I'm assuming it has to be something I've done. I just pulled the pump off and put it back on. It still over heats in a matter of minutes. I think I'm bleeding it right. I'm sure I have connected everything properly. Is it possible the shaft isn't turning at all? It's a mechanical pump, it's not cirulating, could the new WP seal I put in somehow cause the shaft not to turn? Strange thing is, it ran fine for a day. One stinking day then it over heats. As for the radiator and lines, it just doesn't seem right to me they'd fail or plug out of the blue. btw, this is my son's car. I own a Del Sol VTEC....guess I'm over matched with this muscle car....lol $$$$$$$

 

Well, I pulled the stat and she still over heated. The heater still blows cold and the SES light still shines bright. What do they do with a horse that has broken its leg, that's right. They take her out and shoot her....damn car I still think the pump isn't turn. After I pulled it today, I did spin the wheel. It spun fine. Can't help but thing the coupler isn't spinning once the pump is installed. Is that possible? Could it be the cam coming out of the head that's not spinning?

 

With the car cool, remove the main hose necks (where the T-Stat is) drain the water off the block, (just enough so that there will not be any in the waterpump) and turn on the engine. You should immediately see if the impeller is turning. Shut if off quickly.

Make sure there is no water in the waterpump housing, because it might splash all over if there is some there when you turn it over.

 

You should be able to observe if the pump is working by taking the radiator cap off and watching the coolant as it warms up. When the thermostat opens, you should see coolant start to flow and if you give the throttle a blip, the flow should increase accordingly.

 

I thought AZ could only scan OBDII cars? Regardless AZ can only pull a certain number of codes, they won't be able to pull any manufacturer specific ones. Take the car to someplace with the proper equipment to dscan the car (even a dealership, but find one that won't cost you $100), or get a scanner and do it yourself. Right now your grasping at straws until you get that code out.

BTW if you have an SES, you have a code.

 

Turns out the brand new water pump I bought from Auto Zone was fragged. I took it back and got a new one. You'd think for $134 you'd get a pump that works. Anyway, while putting the car back together I noticed one of the pins in the MAF plug was bent down (SES problem fixed!!!!!!). So, my son's happy and I'm going fishing.

Thanks a lot for all of the great suggestions. This is a wonderful resource....you guys are great! Hey, if you're under 27, love mechanics, and need a job, check out the Air Force! ya, I'm in a recruiting squadron...lol