Major overheating.........with 5 mins i can reach 260 degrees...any suggestions where do i begin.....radiator is not leaking...... some times after i pull over....1/4 of the times when i get goi again the car radically temp drops but 5 mins later it starts clinbing again

 

waterpump is shot.

 

brand new meziere electric water pump.... i can hear it run....new becool radiator too new hoses....and new thermostat too even though i suspect it...fans do work as well i can hear them come on

 

it could be turning and still be leaking. any way you could jack up your front end to see if you blew one of the WP gaskets?

the only reason I say its the WP is because my car acted the EXACT same way when it was leaking. how is the coolant level in your radiator?

 

i will definetly check again but im not leaking at the block....is it possible that if it was doing this i would have any air entrance to the system causing this? any ideas on the thermo? possible leaking into oil system.....the level is staying about the same its a little higher sometimes after i run it but i can always see it

 

Start with the basics,

Cold Motor:

Open radiator cap & Open Thermostat housing bleeder valve.
Fill radiator till valve seeps. Wait for valve to seep consistant flow of coolant. Close Valve.
Turn on your W/P. You will be able to see the flow right below your radiator fill opening if the wheel on the w/p is rotating. if not w/p is running but blade isnt turning.

Hoping that isnt what is going on:

Fill radiator till fluid reaches brim of filler. Replace cap. (motor still running)
Wait till the thermostat's opening temprature is surpassed. Open your heater inlet hose bleeder screw, aim it away from your alternator wait till consistant flow is escaping from hole. Close valve.

Now that you know no air is in your system. How's that temprature?

 

Make sure you bleed the system. Do a search and it will yield tons of results.

Make sure you have an LT-1 thermo. A regular SBC will NOT work properly.

Make sure you have the WP wired to run the correct way. The polarity on these will allow them to run reverse if you have them swapped around.

-Shannon

 

how many bleed screws are there

 

2, one on your thermostat housing and one on your heater hose.

 

Listen to Bryan Smith.
My friend put in a new thermostat in his LT1 and it ran the same way. He had air in his system. He get all the air out using this smae method from Bryan and it ran fine after that.

 

Yea I remember Sunday when i was trying to look for a opening i had the cap off and the car running and it just kept expanding until it would overflow so the more i think about it sounds like a thermostat.... but i will try this bleeding first....i know that one screw is in the front but arent they both on the heater hoses???

 

Yea I remember Sunday when i was trying to look for a opening i had the cap off and the car running and it just kept expanding until it would overflow so the more i think about it sounds like a thermostat.... but i will try this bleeding first....i know that one screw is in the front but arent they both on the heater hoses???

Wow i cant believe i just typed that

 

http://shbox.com/1/bleeders.jpg

 

Well I bled them just in time before the one on the thermostat housing broke......i am still unsure but i got 30 mins out of the car last night and its not overheating at all

 

Yeah the one on my thermostat housing broke as well. Not a big deal, just remove the whole valve to bleed it now. Sounds good about the temprature.