overheat, AGAIN!!
well, please shoot me some opinions here. i was cruising down the freeway today, and the temp out side was like 89 degree. my water temp keep rising, even though i was cruising at 65-70MPH, the AC was on. the water temp crawling up until it went just above the half line. then it came back down below the halfline. usually, it stays below the 1/4 mark when i'm running 65-70MPH. what gives? well, i know my heater core is going bad with all this caramel smell inside my car. so do you think it's a malfunction water pump, or just my heater core going bad(goind to bypass it tomorrow)......thanks for reading
Excerpt from my Tech Page:
Check for obstructions/debris in front of the a/c condensor (sometimes even between the condensor and radiator).
Make sure the air dam is on. Cars with low ground effects may need a special air dam to scoop up enough air for cooling.
Check the thermostat for proper operation. It can be tested in a pan of water, heated on a stove. It should open fully at it's rated temperature.
While on the subject of thermostats, the LT1 reverse flow system uses a special, long thermostat that works together with the passages in the water pump to provide proper coolant routing. If you use an old SBC style thermostat, you run the risk of the system not operating with proper efficiency and it may overheat. Escalating temps can be caused by poor air or coolant flow.
Check for obstructions/debris in front of the a/c condensor (sometimes even between the condensor and radiator).
Make sure the air dam is on. Cars with low ground effects may need a special air dam to scoop up enough air for cooling.
Check the thermostat for proper operation. It can be tested in a pan of water, heated on a stove. It should open fully at it's rated temperature.
While on the subject of thermostats, the LT1 reverse flow system uses a special, long thermostat that works together with the passages in the water pump to provide proper coolant routing. If you use an old SBC style thermostat, you run the risk of the system not operating with proper efficiency and it may overheat. Escalating temps can be caused by poor air or coolant flow.
TMD - Didn't we check your coolant system with a pressure tester and found a leak at the water pump? Did you change the pump? If you want, you can get a better view by pulling the air intake tube and pressurizing the cooling system again. I've still got the tester if you'd like to check it out.
Originally posted by Wild1
TMD - Didn't we check your coolant system with a pressure tester and found a leak at the water pump? Did you change the pump? If you want, you can get a better view by pulling the air intake tube and pressurizing the cooling system again. I've still got the tester if you'd like to check it out.
TMD - Didn't we check your coolant system with a pressure tester and found a leak at the water pump? Did you change the pump? If you want, you can get a better view by pulling the air intake tube and pressurizing the cooling system again. I've still got the tester if you'd like to check it out.
i found an electric waterpump on ebay, just wondering if this could fit in my car....thanks
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...category=33604
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...category=33604
The pump on EBay looks good. You may want to verify compatibility with your car.
A water pump that isn't working properly will cause problems. The leak is actually reducing pressure in the system. This causes the boiling point to lower. It will boil much easier which puts your engine in danger.
Also, it will explain why you have that sweet-burning smell. Yep, it's time to replace it. Might as well look into that electric pump and upgrade at this point. Will the guy warranty it?
A water pump that isn't working properly will cause problems. The leak is actually reducing pressure in the system. This causes the boiling point to lower. It will boil much easier which puts your engine in danger.
Also, it will explain why you have that sweet-burning smell. Yep, it's time to replace it. Might as well look into that electric pump and upgrade at this point. Will the guy warranty it?
Originally posted by Wild1
The pump on EBay looks good. You may want to verify compatibility with your car.
A water pump that isn't working properly will cause problems. The leak is actually reducing pressure in the system. This causes the boiling point to lower. It will boil much easier which puts your engine in danger.
Also, it will explain why you have that sweet-burning smell. Yep, it's time to replace it. Might as well look into that electric pump and upgrade at this point. Will the guy warranty it?
The pump on EBay looks good. You may want to verify compatibility with your car.
A water pump that isn't working properly will cause problems. The leak is actually reducing pressure in the system. This causes the boiling point to lower. It will boil much easier which puts your engine in danger.
Also, it will explain why you have that sweet-burning smell. Yep, it's time to replace it. Might as well look into that electric pump and upgrade at this point. Will the guy warranty it?
I just went mechanical with my water pump. Autozone has a lifetime warranty. However, since I'm looking at building the motor soon/later, I'm considering a Double Roller Timing Chain.
The Electric H2O pump will clear the new cover, currently with the mechanical, I'll have to go with the LT4 Extreme Duty or Cloyes for $500.
Electric might be a good choice early in the game.
The Electric H2O pump will clear the new cover, currently with the mechanical, I'll have to go with the LT4 Extreme Duty or Cloyes for $500.
Electric might be a good choice early in the game.
do you have any recommendation on which electric water pump to go? i heard electric WP also increase HP?? is this true? and where can i buy this electric WP? thanks
Last edited by TMDZ28; May 29, 2003 at 12:54 PM.
It does increase horsepower a bit by taking the load off of the pulley to turn the mechanical water pump. However, the electrical load will add a load to the alternator which should be able to handle it. If you've got 20 speakers and 10 amps, I'd be careful thumping in heavy traffic because the alternator can't do everything.
I've got two amps and I can watch the voltmeter go down while sitting in traffic at night. Too much of a load on the alternator. That's why I don't run an electric water pump. However, you have less traffic where your at so you'll probably be fine. If you notice the volts getting low, just raise the RPMs a bit. In an Auto you'll have to go into Neutral.
I don't have a recommendation but I've heard good things about Meziere (sp?). I'd check www.summitracing.com for prices. Also, www.tbyrne.com has some I believe....
The HP gained will not likely be too noticeable... 3-6 maybe
I've got two amps and I can watch the voltmeter go down while sitting in traffic at night. Too much of a load on the alternator. That's why I don't run an electric water pump. However, you have less traffic where your at so you'll probably be fine. If you notice the volts getting low, just raise the RPMs a bit. In an Auto you'll have to go into Neutral.
I don't have a recommendation but I've heard good things about Meziere (sp?). I'd check www.summitracing.com for prices. Also, www.tbyrne.com has some I believe....
The HP gained will not likely be too noticeable... 3-6 maybe
Yep, you can just get a wire wheel or brush and clean off the surface. You can sand or bead blast. Once clean, you spray on the coating (some recommend an air brush used in art class $3 cheap). It will bake on as you heat up the headers. I'd let it idle for a while to get them cured before you run. Check out www.techlinecoatings.com


