Most likely reason is the timing is off.. I'd check the installation of the opti again.. if you look at the picture posted on the first page you'll see 2 other hole's other than the "right" one that look fairly close to each other.. dowel will go into either one w/o any problem's...

 

I ment no disrespect to dave, and did not want to appear " upitty". If i offended Dave let me appolgyse right now. Before installing the Optispark / cam i checked it out of the car and the pin would only fit into one of the holes ( the box- like one) - If it was the Opti would the car idle?

Again I ment no harm in my response and appreciate your continued support.

Now that I am aware the computer is not the problem ( by testing it with a known working computer) - (The Blue module couldent go bad could it - i used my own in his computer)

and I know the fuel system is good by the gauge..

(One thing about the fuel - when idling it will create detonation knock every few seconds - and it doesnt happen all the time - Like the engine is about to die ( it dips to low RPM) while this happens the fuel pressure spikes.


If need be I will check the Optispark Install


Thank you all.

-Brad-

 

At this point I hope that I installed it wrong

Just to be perfectly clear

http://www.pride.hofstra.edu/~bmurph3/opti_back.jpg

The Dowell goes into the #1 slot right as shoebox shows.

Also - does anyone have a length for the dowll pin just to confirm my numbers.

Thank you again.

 

I have a '95 (no way in hell to install the opti incorrectly) and I've installed it incorrectly. It was my first opti install. It would never happen again though. The car ran and idled, but horribly. It also was hard for the starter to turn the motor over. If you've checked everything, it's no big deal to take an extra couple hours and check the opti. Start the car after you pull it off and reinstall it. You can run it for a minute w/out the water pump to make sure it is running correctly.

 

I's going to go and do that now

 

Optispark is out and if the shoebox site is correct (which I am certain it is) then the cam dowel was in the correct location.

Just a qusestion - could the dowell pin be too long- I had to cut it initially (CC305) I was not sure if the pin should bottom out in the opti and i see marks that it has could this be a problem?

http://www.pride.hofstra.edu/~bmurph3/PICT0210.JPG

I know it's not the computer . This leaves a few things left

The Blue Chip inside the computer ( i doubt it)

The Wire harness?

Bad Opti ( brand new from jason cromer)

Bad Valve Adjustment?

As the thread title states I am almost totally out of ideas.

 

well pull a valve cover and check to see how the pushrod's feel.. All them should not have tension on them. if by any chance they do than that's a issue as well.. and you should redo it.. Glad to hear you got one issue out of the way...

 

Yep -

I am going to redo the valves now .

The timing cover is also coming off since im down this far to make CERTAIN everything is OK inside.

Thanks

 

well ok have fun..

 

I assume any of the procedures listed on the Shbox website will be fine... for the adjustment valves that is

 

yes sir!

 

Updates!!!?????

 

Ya ya.. ha ha I have been very busy with school this week.


I am still in the process of removing the timing cover and redoing the valves.

That will be done right after i finish this post.


Also I am going to take off the accessory bracket since the AC compressor is leaking.. grr and then make sure i am not pinching any of the spark plug wires that i routed through the bracket.. that would explain a lot.

I really hope it does not come down to wires - although not being able to communicate with a computer makes me worry.

 

I had a spark plug wire pinched.. but when i run a 12 volt through it its fine is that enough to say that wire is not damaged?

 

Alright

Update:

Valves Have been re adjusted as per the shoe box procedure ( none were off)

Engine is in Perfect time with itself, no skipped teeth, when the #1 piston is at TDC cam pin is right at 9 o clock then one rev of crank moves it to the 3 o lcok position which is correct.

I await your responces on the wire situation ( Accel 8mm)

The only sensors i have not changed on the engine are the water temp sender from the water pump and the MAP sensor ontop of the manifold...


The Map sensor is really intriguing me.. imagine if all of this comes down to the easiest sensor to replace? right ontop of the mani