Ok, this is day 2 on the big opti swap. bought one form thepartsladi on ebay. I know a few people that have used her and have also seen people here that have used her and all give good responses. This was a new part or remanufactured, not sure which.

In any case...I swapped it out and the car wouldnt run. It was acting like the opti was put in at the wrong position. Can only go in in 1 of 3 positions right? And further more only one of them has the groove for the cam dowel correct?

Before I tore everything back down, I tripple checked the firing order and its all on correct "clicked" in on each part of the opti and on each plug. Still no luck.

So I set TDC using the McD's straw method. The reset the opti making sure the groove was in correctly. Double checked fireing order again, reinstalled (left everyhting off liek the alt, WP, crank etc incase I would have to tear it down again, didnt wanna make that mistake, I did connect the elbow and MAF). Attempted to crank it and no luck.

I hear the Fuel pump prime, push on the fuel pressure check valve and fuel SQUARTS out, fuel filter has less than 6k miles, motor has less than 10k, before tearing down all sensors checked out using a snapon solus scanner.

So I am at an end here. Anyone have any advise on what to look for? I cant seem to figure this out. The car turns over but wont start. When I stop trying to start it it "diesals" really roughly for >1 to 5secs and then cuts off.

 

oh, plugs and wires also have about 5k miles on them.

 

So does it have spark at all?

 

i haven't pulled a plug or anything to verify the spark on each plug but, after i try starting it the car diesels for a few moments meaning its getting just enough spark to ALMOST do something but not quite. Thank you 96ZCamaro

 

What you just typed doesn't make any sense. lol

It sounds like you may have a plug wire crossed either at the opti or at the plugs. As far as I know it's physically impossible to put the opti on wrong without breaking it.

It is also possible that maybe the rotor inside the opti is loose. They are occasionally shipped with loose rotor screws straight from GM

 

hah think i fixed it.....ill check out the rotor, but it also didn't work when i replaced it with the old unit. Thanks Nov194

On the wires, I dont think this is the case AT ALL because I traced wire by wire form the cap to each plug. removed the AC Compressor to be sure I got the ones on the passenger side right. This was my 1st assumption last night when it wouldn't run.

 

I would pull the opti, it can be installed wrong.

The pin goes in the hole at 4 0'clock.

 

Using excessive force it can be installed wrong. There are three holes it looks like the dowel pin can possibly fit into. One is rectangular and two are more hour glass shaped. Use a little force and it can go into the hour glass shaped ones and the car would spit and sputter and maybe even diesel like you are saying.

No need to be at TDC if you just line up the right hole with the dowel pin.

 

i am pretty sure that is the one i put it in. I will double check this tomorrow. Anyone have any other ideas?

 

Is the check engine light on?

Couple things to look for:
1) Make sure MAF is plugged in
2) Make sure the coil to opti wire is on
3) check to make sure the ignition module connector is on (this is just below the coil)
4) make sure opti connector is on
5)Check to make sure the ignition test connector is connected to your opti connector (this is on the passenger side of the intake manifold below the CCP solenoid).
6)Connect the IAT and the Water pump temp connectors just for $h!t$ and giggles.

Here's how to test the low res signal from the opti. It's about a 3 minute test using a voltmeter (VM)
1) disconnect the test connector at the manifold.
2) turn ignition on and use a voltmeter to check the voltage on the red/black wire on the PCM (firewall side) side of the connector
3) less than .5 volts - faulty PCM or shorted PCM connection to test connector
4) 4-6 volts - turn off ignition and go to step 6
5) over 6 volts - short to voltage on low res signal circuit from pcm to test connector
6) reconnect test connector and remove connector at opti
7) turn ignition on and probe the red/black wire connector with the VM
8) less than .5 volts - short in harness between test connector and opti connector
9) 4-6 volts - faulty opti connection or faulty opti
10) over 6 volts - short to voltage on low res signal circuit from test connector to opti

Happy hunting.

 

is it possible the rotor was installed incorrectly form the factory?

 

thanks man ill run the ref test and check out #'s 5 and 6.

 

As for the check engine light.

If it is not on, then there aren't any codes thrown. This test is for when the MIL is on and the code is a DTC 16.

 

Not the dowel type unless you jackhammer it on or bolt it up to where it's not sitting flush with the timing cover and perhaps draw it on. The dowel pin out of the camshaft will not fit into the other slots- at least very easily.
I can't imagine just how much force one would apply to do such a thing.

 

You'de be surprised how many times I've read about someone installing the Gen II opti wrong, and yes it would have to be forced on. If it doesn't easily seat against the timing cover, it is wrong. Don't use the bolts to seat it.