LT1 Based Engine Tech 1993-1997 LT1/LT4 Engine Related

Opti conversion

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old Apr 6, 2003 | 07:14 PM
  #1  
IgorT.455/406's Avatar
Thread Starter
Registered User
 
Joined: Jan 2000
Posts: 731
From: Calgary, Ab, Canada
Opti conversion

I have done reaserch on this, but I just have a couple of questions.

To convert to a vented Opti from non-vented, I esentially need a timing cover, harness, vac. line, different timing chain and a different cam, right? (diff. opti of course). BUT, do I just need a longer dowel pin on my existing cam OR do I need a new cam altogether? If just the pin, any part numbers? Thanks guys. Anyone know where I can get a cheap timing cover? The price difference of the two optis almost makes sence to do a conversion.

Another thing, is there a catch on removing the balancer hub? I tried to remove it last time I had the stuff off, and I broke 2 balancer pullers trying, but the thing didn't budge. All the bolts were out, yes. Thanks guys.
Old Apr 6, 2003 | 09:03 PM
  #2  
shoebox's Avatar
Registered User
 
Joined: Dec 1969
Posts: 27,725
From: Little Rock, AR
You must have a longer dowel pin and a cam with the larger hole machined in the front of it (either by way of a new cam or having your old one drilled out).

If you are not putting anything into the hole where you removed the hub retaining bolt, you are just trying to pull the hub apart. The result is you will break the puller or a hub ear.

http://web.camaross.com/forums/showt...hreadid=103524
Old Apr 6, 2003 | 09:15 PM
  #3  
IgorT.455/406's Avatar
Thread Starter
Registered User
 
Joined: Jan 2000
Posts: 731
From: Calgary, Ab, Canada
So I have to put the 5/8" bolt back into the hole, then mount the puller onto this bolt? Then get a longer bolt to get it all the way out? Why?

Why can't I just put a larger socket against the front of the crank, and put the puller bolt against this socket and pull the hub this way, like regular sbc. Thanks, I printed those instructions.
Old Apr 6, 2003 | 09:20 PM
  #4  
shoebox's Avatar
Registered User
 
Joined: Dec 1969
Posts: 27,725
From: Little Rock, AR
Originally posted by IgorT.455/406
So I have to put the 5/8" bolt back into the hole, then mount the puller onto this bolt? Then get a longer bolt to get it all the way out? Why?

Why can't I just put a larger socket against the front of the crank, and put the puller bolt against this socket and pull the hub this way, like regular sbc. Thanks, I printed those instructions.
Because you are not pushing on the front of the crank. The design of the hub is different than what you are used to with the old SBC. That is what screws everyone up. To be able to push on the crank, you have to do it through the hole. You will see, once you get it out.
Old Apr 6, 2003 | 09:24 PM
  #5  
IgorT.455/406's Avatar
Thread Starter
Registered User
 
Joined: Jan 2000
Posts: 731
From: Calgary, Ab, Canada
A picture is worth 1000 words. Thanks man, now I get it!
Old Apr 6, 2003 | 10:12 PM
  #6  
Carlos01SS's Avatar
Registered User
 
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 382
From: Cypress, Orange County CA.
If you have any more questions, you can contact Mark @Andy's Auto Performance in Monrovia CA., USA, 626-447-3707, apparently he has done quite a few of them, he will be changing mine over on Monday April 7th.

Website:

http://www.andysautoperformance.com/main.html

Good luck!
Related Topics
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
Formula Steve
LT1 Based Engine Tech
45
Sep 19, 2023 08:31 AM
93 RedBird
Fuel and Ignition
4
Nov 15, 2015 08:24 AM
jayblev95
LT1 Based Engine Tech
11
Sep 26, 2015 09:44 PM
tommalcolm
Computer Diagnostics and Tuning
2
Sep 11, 2015 03:39 PM
tdigger9899
General 1967-2002 F-Body Tech
9
Sep 7, 2015 10:56 AM




All times are GMT -5. The time now is 11:44 AM.