Even if it isnt off a tooth, still take it off the retarded setting for the crank keyway [Square key] and put it in straight up [Circle keyway]. That alone should be worth some power Anyways, no problem and keep in touch with how she runs.

 

You can do it at 12 and 12, but it is just harder to tell if you are off than doing it at 12 and 6. Either way is acceptable and correct. There is no real reason not to do it at 12 and 6, since it is easier.

 

This may be the cause of my cam problems. Thanks guys for all the info. I know it wasnt to help me directly, but I think you just did anyways. I have all the same symptoms listed above with the loss in power and backfires and all. I know what I will be looking at very soon.

 

i started taking mine apart today, i know i used the rectangle keyhole and it put the crank dot at the 1100 o'clock position, when i know the #1 piston was TDC (heads were off), i did my best to make sure the cam dot was at the 12 oclock position (for #1 TDC) but i could not recheck myself because the dots will never line up (dot to dot) because thats the way i put it together. tommorow i will put it back together the way i should have.
thanks for the help.

btw: i broke a waterpump bolt today but it has 1/4" outside the block to help me get it out.

Jesse

 

Hey better a waterpump bolt which you can reach and remove than a hub bolt that you cant, like i did second time around

 

So.... was that the cause of your problem??? Im tearing mine down Saturday to look at it.

 

Whats the best way to check for vacuum and how do you measure it?

 

You need a vaccuum gauge, they are fairly cheap and all parts stores should carry them.

Then you need to hook the gauge up to the intake some how with the car at idle. I used the opti vent port.

 

I just sent you another email!

Heres my symptoms.

Ocassional starting problems, ocassional idle problems and rough idle, back firing at high rpms, some missing feelings but could be cam surge, shakeyness in 6th gear only, and huge power loss.

The plugs n wires have been changed. The motor was scoped and only miss I had was on clyinder #1 due to 0 compression. That was a rr set to tight keeping the valve open. That is fixed now and I have compression on that cylinder.

 

Same as the email i sent....

First of all get a vaccuum gauge on it, thats a start. If it reads low you either have a bad intake manifold seal, or the cam is wrong.

Reason i say it sounds ignition related, is because all the symptoms you listed are "under load", or when the engine is working its hardest (upper rpms miss, 6th gear etc) That normally is an igniton problem. I never had any hard starts either, which also makes me wonder

Cam surge is somewhat hard to explain, but its almost like a bucking of the car. It will jump really hard forward on you, then stop, then do it again rapidly. You shouldnt have any issues with your cam doing that.

Anyone tuned the computer yet? If its backfiring out the exhaust, could be a tuning issues. Mine was backfiring though the intake.

Anyways, i would start by hooking up the gauge and go from there. If that looks ok, pull the plugs/wires/coil and give them the once over. Could have easily fouled a plug or burnt a wire even if they are new.

EDIT: just saw in sig about tuning, mail order or local with logging???

 

I have pcmforless tuning and then my buddy went in and got rid of some knock I had. The plugs n wires have been replaced. Can timing not cause my starting problems, idle problems and the loss in power?

 

i tore down the front of my motor, and sure enough i installed my cloyes timing set on the rectangle (2 degree retard).....the car starts like it did stock and my cam surge is gone totally (pcmforless tune) it seems stronger on the mid and top end....but i have the worst buttometer....im going to the track on the 9th or the 17th. and ill post my results.
THANK YOU ATLJAR!

btw im retarded

jesse