Phew! Reading 8 pages of threads with a search result using "cc306" took a while, but I got some great info!

So I have gathered from all the threads that I will get the Crane #10308 spring kit. I will also look for a good timing set & 30-36lb injectors. I also note that many suffer a vacuum loss at idle so I need to look for a vacuum canister (from Summit?) for the brake booster. I will also be going with 1.6rr's.

Now...my questions:

1. What brand of 1.6 NSA rockers would you recommend? Not looking for full race strength, but still one that will be dependable.

2. What length pushrods will I need for the stock LT1 heads & valves?

3. I also read that I can use 3/8" or 7/16" studs. What's recommended?

4. I've also read that I'll need at least a 2800stall TC for the cam to eliminate surging. Easy enough, but this got me to thinking (dangerous!). I've also read that expert tuners (MadZ & PCMforLess) have tuned the PCM's to eliminate the cam surge. So if I got a successful tune and the surge was all but eliminated...AND I waited ($$$) maybe 3-5 months to get a 2800 stall, what effect would I see/feel on a hard launch using my stock stall (1800)?

Thanks for any insight and help in choosing the right parts for the buildup.

 

I ran a stock stall on my car for almost a year. You will get better MPG and might...might fell some cam surge, but nothing that would make the car unstreetable

 

That's reassuring to hear! I know that a higher stall is optimal to get the engine in the cam's powerband for peak perfromance, but I don't think I can budget a torque converter and the cam kit at once. I'll most likely do the TC and a 3.42 rear end conversion together.

 

Your car would be faster with a converter and stock cam than a cc306/stock stall in the 1/4.

 

whats streetable to one guy isnt to the next so what you exactly mean by steetable?

 

I use the comp cams pro mag 1.6 roller rockers non self aligning. Also, for the studs, use 7/16" for the extra strength. I used stock length 7.2" hardened pushrods and trickflow guideplates.

 

I'd have to agree with speed demon. And once you can afford a new converter, don't be afraid to go with one in the 3600 range. Just get a quality one that still has the lock-up.

 

No problem, I run the same cam, and have been down the same road. Only I did the 1.6RR's as my 3rd bolt on after headers, GMMG, CAI, then did gears, stall, cam...4L80..9"..oh jeez...

I like the Isky Guideplates, but thats just me.

Good Luck

-Dustin-

 

why are nonself aligning rockers so important? why not use the crane gold self-aligning roller ones. i never had a problem with those.

 

self aligning are less stable at high rpm.

you do not need a vacuum canister

i would get some pac 1218 springs

i would use a stock timming set and your stock injectors should be fine

and my choice is in sig

 

1) Crane w/ GMPP guideplates, I went with 1.5's, 1.6's were too much lift for me

2) Stock length hardened pushrods

3)7/16" is optimal, 3/8" are stock, I used 3/8" and haven't had a problem yet.

4) Definitely save for a converter, you NEED one for this cam

Thunder Racing sells a cam swap gasket kit with all the gaskets you'll need, and they even sell the stock length hardened pushrods you'll need. Don't need a vac canister, just pump the brakes before you take off in the morning. And buy a stock replacement timing set, no need for a fancy expensive double roller, I don't think anyone has ever broke a stock timing set.

 

Totally agree here, and use the 7/16 studs an rockers. And once more I would like to say, a decent converter is going to be a night and day difference on how that cam preforms.

 

so has anyone had a problem with the cc306 and comp pro mag SA 1.6s ?

 

an lt4 hotcam is pretty much one of the only cams that won't hate you for using a stock convertor, a cc306 on the other hand is on the complete other side of the spectrum as far as off the shelf cams go

save the money you would be using on injectors and invest in a convertor or your car will feel like a dog until you get into your powerband

 

what do you mean less stable? i've never heard of one jumping off a valve or nothing. only way i could see that happening is if too light a spring was used.