Is it ok to re use rings?
Is it ok to re use rings?
I just spun a rod bearing in my brand new 383
. So now I have to replace the crank, get it all rebalanced, etc. I am ordering parts and was wondering if it is ok to re-use the rings. They only have 1028 miles on them and seemed to be seated pretty well (stopped using oil). What are your thoughts on this? I have never thought about it because I have never rebuilt an engine with this few miles on it. In any case, I don't plan on re-honing or any of that, just clean the block real well and slap the new stuff in there.
. So now I have to replace the crank, get it all rebalanced, etc. I am ordering parts and was wondering if it is ok to re-use the rings. They only have 1028 miles on them and seemed to be seated pretty well (stopped using oil). What are your thoughts on this? I have never thought about it because I have never rebuilt an engine with this few miles on it. In any case, I don't plan on re-honing or any of that, just clean the block real well and slap the new stuff in there.
Originally posted by mycarisfasterthanyours
I was planning on keeping them in the same cylinders, but do I also need to note thier location in the cylinders. (Clocking?)
I was planning on keeping them in the same cylinders, but do I also need to note thier location in the cylinders. (Clocking?)
I had the same thing happen on a BB Chevelle I owned. Got coolant in the pan and fried the mains and rod bearings. The cylinders still had the cross hatch pattern in them, so I marked the pistons, noted the position of the rings, then had the crank turned and the rods resized. After reassembly compression was good, and no oil consumption.
Not trying to influence, just passing on my experience.
Not trying to influence, just passing on my experience.
I don't know what caused the bearing to spin. It was the # 8 rod bearing and one side was spun under the other side. I was using brand new crank and rods. I only plastiguaged one rod bearing when assembling because the rods have dowel pins on them and they were a freakin pain to get the caps off once they were tightened. The one bearing that I did guage though was perfect. Anybody have any opinions. I don't want to have to do all this again.
You can reuse rings if they're okay.
Would just install them normally.. all that stuff rotates
I wouldn't rebuild a lawn mower with plastigage & clearances vary... I'd pay someone to do it "right" this time : ).
Would just install them normally.. all that stuff rotates

I wouldn't rebuild a lawn mower with plastigage & clearances vary... I'd pay someone to do it "right" this time : ).
Originally posted by SkarodoM
You can reuse rings if they're okay.
Would just install them normally.. all that stuff rotates
I wouldn't rebuild a lawn mower with plastigage & clearances vary... I'd pay someone to do it "right" this time : ).
You can reuse rings if they're okay.
Would just install them normally.. all that stuff rotates

I wouldn't rebuild a lawn mower with plastigage & clearances vary... I'd pay someone to do it "right" this time : ).
As far as how you would build an engine... I am not so sure I would trust you with a lawn mower engine since you think that rings rotate in the bore
Have you ever built an engine? Installed rings? If so, did you know that you are supposed to index the rings a certain way? Now tell me why that would matter if they all spun around anyway.Again, thanks for the input, but maybe you should stick to the top end.
SkarodoM, the rings don't rotate in the boar. If this was the case then why would an engine builder index the ring gaps so they don't line up? Why wouldn't you use plastigage? How else are you going to know the clearance between the crank and the bearing? I guess you could use a mic. to check the crank, but how would you be able to check the rod with the bearing in it? The rings would probably be ok to use again, but would you want to risk burning oil for the life of the engine over a $100 part? If it was me I would just replace them and be done with it. The bearing probably spun due to the rod being out of tolerance from the manufacture. Just some of my thoughts.
Originally posted by SkarodoM
Retainers, springs, valves, etc. don't rotate either ; )
Good luck guys.
Retainers, springs, valves, etc. don't rotate either ; )
Good luck guys.
Also, Phil, didn't you have a "real" engine builder build you an engine that also spun a bearing. I guess it happens to the best of em eh. Anyway, any contibutions from anyone are still welcome, but please, only if you know what you are talking about. hint, hint
LOL You have to be kidding me.
GM built the engine that lost the bearing
.
This is why people that know what they're talking about rarely help anymore. 'Tards read something, take it to heart, and can't stand the thought of their world crashing down & admitting they don't know something.
Hope it works out LOL, you can spend the $ you saved doing it yourself on a flak jacket ; )
GM built the engine that lost the bearing
.This is why people that know what they're talking about rarely help anymore. 'Tards read something, take it to heart, and can't stand the thought of their world crashing down & admitting they don't know something.
Hope it works out LOL, you can spend the $ you saved doing it yourself on a flak jacket ; )


