Ok my car has some serious problems
07-19-2003, 09:55 AM
#1
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2000
Location: Atlanta, GA
Posts: 783
Ok my car has some serious problems
Installed a CC306, 1.6 RRs, electric WP, double roller timing chain, new valve springs, new rocekr studs, hardened pushrods, and PCM4Less programming.
Car has now killed 3 coils. one after market, put the stocker in and then installed the program, then a brand new one from auto zone. Car starts right up when I put a new coil in. I checked all connections and they seem fine. Car starts and runs for 2 days then I come out on the third day and it just wont start. It cranks and that is it. Keeping my car running seems most important and then I can figure out the following.
Then I get 9 degrees knock at idle, 6 at WOT. Maybe I need to readjust my RRs? The car doesn't run all that great on the street either. Under WOT from under 50 it doesnt seem to pull hard at all compared to prior to cam install. After 50 seems normal. That is for all rpms. I have a small fuel leak from where my SFCs were welded on too. Don't know what that would cause. I am going to look at it today. Any suggestions on it?
I get 2 codes, 33 (low vacuum) and now 41 (ignition, open) and here are my scanmaster readings which I can make little or sense of even using Fred's explanations. These are at idle, I just grabbed most stuff that I felt could be relevant.
MAF- 9 to 12
SP- 24-26
Lp-3.1 to 3.6
Rp-2.6 to 2.8
lbl-158
rbl-128
cel-16
Lin-128
rin-128
o2l-jumping 800 consistent at semi throttle
02r- same
ats-73
clt-101
tps-.64
tpp-0
iac-132
map-20 to 27
acp-.02
ccp-0
Car has now killed 3 coils. one after market, put the stocker in and then installed the program, then a brand new one from auto zone. Car starts right up when I put a new coil in. I checked all connections and they seem fine. Car starts and runs for 2 days then I come out on the third day and it just wont start. It cranks and that is it. Keeping my car running seems most important and then I can figure out the following.
Then I get 9 degrees knock at idle, 6 at WOT. Maybe I need to readjust my RRs? The car doesn't run all that great on the street either. Under WOT from under 50 it doesnt seem to pull hard at all compared to prior to cam install. After 50 seems normal. That is for all rpms. I have a small fuel leak from where my SFCs were welded on too. Don't know what that would cause. I am going to look at it today. Any suggestions on it?
I get 2 codes, 33 (low vacuum) and now 41 (ignition, open) and here are my scanmaster readings which I can make little or sense of even using Fred's explanations. These are at idle, I just grabbed most stuff that I felt could be relevant.
MAF- 9 to 12
SP- 24-26
Lp-3.1 to 3.6
Rp-2.6 to 2.8
lbl-158
rbl-128
cel-16
Lin-128
rin-128
o2l-jumping 800 consistent at semi throttle
02r- same
ats-73
clt-101
tps-.64
tpp-0
iac-132
map-20 to 27
acp-.02
ccp-0
07-19-2003, 10:00 AM
#3
Registered User
Join Date: Aug 1999
Location: Frederick, MD, USA
Posts: 65
Re: Ok my car has some serious problems
Originally posted by 95_RipperZ
Then I get 9 degrees knock at idle, 6 at WOT. Maybe I need to readjust my RRs? The car doesn't run all that great on the street either.
Then I get 9 degrees knock at idle, 6 at WOT. Maybe I need to readjust my RRs? The car doesn't run all that great on the street either.
When you installed the double roller chain, did you clearance the inside of the timing cover? Are you using an LT4 knock module?
Under WOT from under 50 it doesnt seem to pull hard at all compared to prior to cam install. After 50 seems normal. That is for all rpms.
I'm using a CC306 and it's low end is horrible... it really screams on the top end, though. I'd work on your other issues before worrying about power. That fuel leak is dangerous. Don't drive the car until you fix it.
07-19-2003, 10:06 AM
#5
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2000
Location: Atlanta, GA
Posts: 783
Re: Re: Ok my car has some serious problems
Originally posted by WayneE
When you installed the double roller chain, did you clearance the inside of the timing cover? Are you using an LT4 knock module?
[/b]
I'm using a CC306 and it's low end is horrible... it really screams on the top end, though. I'd work on your other issues before worrying about power. That fuel leak is dangerous. Don't drive the car until you fix it. [/B]
When you installed the double roller chain, did you clearance the inside of the timing cover? Are you using an LT4 knock module?
[/b]
I'm using a CC306 and it's low end is horrible... it really screams on the top end, though. I'd work on your other issues before worrying about power. That fuel leak is dangerous. Don't drive the car until you fix it. [/B]
The car won't be driven again for sure until the fuel leak is fixed.
07-19-2003, 12:44 PM
#6
Registered User
Join Date: Aug 1999
Location: Frederick, MD, USA
Posts: 65
Re: Re: Re: Ok my car has some serious problems
Originally posted by 95_RipperZ
I didn't clearance the timing cover. I was told I would be fine. That might be causing my knock huh.
I didn't clearance the timing cover. I was told I would be fine. That might be causing my knock huh.
If it was rubbing, you should hear it.
I've only installed 2 sets in cars, but both times we had to do a good deal of grinding on the inside of the timing cover.
Would it kill coils though?
No. You have other issues with the coils.
How do I clearance it?
A grinder (faster) or file (slow).
The car won't be driven again for sure until the fuel leak is fixed.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post