Where should you remove this? From up top and rippnig apart the top of the engine or from the bottom, etc...
Because if my leak is from the Oil Pan Gasket, I am hoping that I can go through the bottom and put my headers on as an excuse. Because if I go through the bottom, wouldn't it be easier while everything is out to throw on the headers and do a tune up?
Because if my leak is from the Oil Pan Gasket, I am hoping that I can go through the bottom and put my headers on as an excuse. Because if I go through the bottom, wouldn't it be easier while everything is out to throw on the headers and do a tune up?
Registered User
I JUST did this to one of my cars the weekend before last.
You can get it out from the bottom of the car. You don't have to completely remove the oil pan, just drop it down far enough to get the old gasket snaked out.
Basically, seeing as how you're a six speed, you will have to raise the motor up some. When I did mine, all I had to undo was the passenger side motor mount. I then lifted the motor using a tranny jack with a 2X6 under the crank hub. It lifted up about 3-4 inches. Then you just drop the pan down (remember to remove the starter and tranny shield), and stretch the old gasket around the perimeter. You'll also have to remove the oil level sending unit. Then just stretch the new gasket into place from directly under the pan. It helps to remove the oil dipstick too. This is also a good timeto put in new motor mounts if you've been thinking of it.
If at all possible DO NOT overtorque the pan bolts or you'll have leaks. Ask me how I know. The four corner bolts need to be torqued to 180 In/Lb and the side perimeter bolts to 108 In/Lb.
You can get it out from the bottom of the car. You don't have to completely remove the oil pan, just drop it down far enough to get the old gasket snaked out.
Basically, seeing as how you're a six speed, you will have to raise the motor up some. When I did mine, all I had to undo was the passenger side motor mount. I then lifted the motor using a tranny jack with a 2X6 under the crank hub. It lifted up about 3-4 inches. Then you just drop the pan down (remember to remove the starter and tranny shield), and stretch the old gasket around the perimeter. You'll also have to remove the oil level sending unit. Then just stretch the new gasket into place from directly under the pan. It helps to remove the oil dipstick too. This is also a good timeto put in new motor mounts if you've been thinking of it.
If at all possible DO NOT overtorque the pan bolts or you'll have leaks. Ask me how I know. The four corner bolts need to be torqued to 180 In/Lb and the side perimeter bolts to 108 In/Lb.
Anything involving an easier install for headers?
Removing the manifolds then installing LT's?
I have to check that out... I read a lot of about the K member and all this crap for the oil pan gasket.
Removing the manifolds then installing LT's?
I have to check that out... I read a lot of about the K member and all this crap for the oil pan gasket.
Registered User
One word SUX all right to remove the pan all the way, pull the motor mount bolts, jack it from the hub, and losen the k member bolts a lil. Drop the Y pipe and starter. Be a excelent time for headers, and to make sure you get a good seal on your pan.
The oil pan gasket is accessed from the bottom.