Hi,

Has anyone had experience in replacing the low oil level sensor on a 1995 Camaro Z28? As simple as it sounds, I am having the hardest time installing it.

Here is what's wrong, The sensor is about 3 to 4" in length, there is no way that one can just pull it straight out of the oil pan hole, it has to come out and go in at an angle; this is because the driver side catalytic converter is in the way. I pulled the old one out by pulling on it and it eventually came out. However trying to put the new on in was a pain in the arsenal, it will just not go in because of the catalytic converter is in the way, I tried tapping it in but it will not go in, I am afraid to hit it a bit harder and have broken pieces inside the oil pan. It seems like the catalytic converter has to be removed, which will not be fun at all. ( I tried and ended up breaking a stud bolt due to severe rust, also the location of the third bolt is incredibly hard to get to). Can someone advice on this? Is there a way to do all this?? I'm beat. Any help would be deeply appriciated!.


Thank you!

- Johnny

 

You must have a dual cat 1995. The only way to get room is to remove the pipe. Use PB Blaster on the bolts, first.

 

^+1 and if you already broke a bolt off you might as well take it all apart so you can get the broken stud out. If you don't you may end up with an exhaust leak

 

Any suggestions on as how to get the broken bolt on the catalytic converter fixed?? It seems impossible to use a drill and tap due to the lack of space. (I had no idea Camaros were so hard to work on). Anyways, thank you to those who replied, VERY VERY useful information.

Also any suggestions on fixing that broken catalytic converter bolt would be great.

Thank you in advance

- Johnny

 

I don't have a 'F' body, I've got a "Y" body, so I don't know if your setup is the same.

Does your converter have bolts or studs?

Mine has studs and I broke a couple recently while doing an engine swap. Even after I PB Blasted them a few of them still snapped.

I replaced the broken studs with metric bolts I found at my local ACE.

To get the broken pieces out, I removed the exhaust manifold (which is where most of them broke) and clamped the broken piece, still in the manifold, in my work bench vise. I REALLY clamped the vice jaws to the broken stud, I mean TIGHT! I even used a long rod to get more leverage on the vice.

I then just turned the manifold, while the vice was holding the broken stud, and I was able to unscrew the broken pieces. Once the initial clamping was overcome, they unscrewed easily.

You could try heat from a hand held torch too.

I used Anti-Seize on all the studs and bolts that I used to re-connect the exhaust.

Hope this helps.

Jake

 

Yes, I do have studs holding the catalytic conv. I broke one of 3 on the driver side. I feared having to remove the exhaust manifold for the reason that it looks hard to remove. But I guess I will have to in order to replace the oil level sensor and might as well get new studs in there too.

p.s. Question. After breaking that stud bold my car is smelling like gasoline as I drive, I have checked all over the place to see if there is any fuel leaks but I see nor smell none while inspecting under the hood. Do you think it could have already started an exhaust leak? I don't think it's the exhaust because the smell is raw gasoline, does not smell like burnt fumes. Any suggestions on what could it be? I checked the fuel pressure reg. and fuel rails, no leaks, looked under the car, no leaks. Any clue ?

 

Jake, quick question. How hard is it to remove an engine form a Camaro (95 z28) Is it as hard as people make it seem? Or is it all just Patience?

 

It's not that hard - it is most definately a test of patience....

Most people will drop per Chevy's instructions - out the bottom and you will have to remove the exhaust (which is your problem in the first place).

 

I've never done it on a 'F' body, I have 2 Vettes. TPIS has information on how to pull it from the top and they claim doing it that way saves hours of work.

The info may be on their website. If I come across any more info on it I'll drop you a line.

Jake

 

The fuel lines run along the side of the chassis and one of them may have been nicked by the floor jack. Could be the fuel filter too.

I'd jack up the car and put it on four stands, then start the engine and crawl under while it's idling.

This is kind of tricky because of the hot spots, etc., so if you do it BE CAREFUL. I've had to do it before, but wasn't a pleasant deal at all.

Jake

 

Sh*t! That's it! that's the problem, I remember lifting the car from one of the pads that says "Don't jack here" (didn't read that till after lol). Man I'm an idiot, oh well I learned something else now, now just gotta deal with it and fix it.


Thanks

 

If it does turn out to be a metal fuel line you can buy some very inexpensive compression fittings at your local ACE hardware to repair it. Easy to fix.

No need to buy an entire fuel line.

Jake

 

Good to see that you are getting everything figured out, but it sucks that you had to learn by messing things up. But I'll offer some more help as far as getting broken studs out. When I had my 1/2 ton truck I redid the exhaust and broke the studs off of the mainfold so I removed the complete manifold from the truck and used the torch to head the bolt until it was red hot then clamped on to it with a pair of vise grips and it came right out. Just be careful with the bolts that go into the head, you don't want to break those. Oh, if you don't have a torch or no anyone that has one my brother found this stuff called "Freeze Off" that you spray on the bolt and it cools it down quick and helps you break them loose. You can get it at autozone, but I'm not sure where else.

Good luck man and let us know when you get it fixed

 

I probably spent too many years around a muffler shop but the only way I can ever get the nuts on the manifold studs out without breaking them is to heat them red how with an acetylene torch. They squeak but they always come out. I have a buddy that says always use a brass nut when you put them back together and that way they will never seize. I gotta try that.

 

Thanks guys for all your help, all very very useful. However the problem is this:

The car is a daily driver, I have no time pull the exhaust manifold and catalytic converter out in one piece (considering the broken bolt is holding them together). I could try, but I can already see myself beating myself up with frustration. But it has to be done, so after I get that out in one piece (if possible) I am sure with all the help you guy's have provided, i'll get it done right.

Thank you all,