Not sure what to do next?
04-16-2010, 12:00 AM
#1
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: Montreal, Quebec
Posts: 885
Not sure what to do next?
Ok so I'm kind of at a crossroads with my project, I'm not sure what I should do next. I have a dynotune nitrous kit in my garage with ALL the extras and I'm itching to get it on. The problem is I've got a feeling there might be a problem with the motor... I just received another oil report last season before putting away for winter from Backstone labs and they found some copper in the oil in the past few samples I've sent them. And it keeps increasing. The car still drives smooth with no knocking and good oil pressure but it may just be a matter of time right??
so that has me wondering what to do? Just slap on the nitrous and see what happens? That's probably a bad idea right? I was thinking of spraying a 75-100 shot at most. The car already has a cam kit from combination motorsports with mild head porting, makes just over 340 hp to the wheels on the dynojet.
Or on the other hand do you think should I slowly start getting the parts together for a rebuild and go from there? This is what I'm leaning towards.
And then, as far as rebuilding the motor I'm not all that sure what to do?? 355? 383? I would want something with good power, decent street manners, and not too costly. I was figuring that since I already have the nitrous kit, A .030 overbore with some good forged nitrous pistons, a refreshing of the bottom end with all new main/rod bearings, would be a good start. Was thinking of maybe spraying a 175-200 shot after the rebuild. btw I have a dynotune single nozzle wet kit. Do you think this is a good idea? It shouldn't break the bank TOO much and give the car some extra power
With a 175-200 shot I should be making close to 500 WHP right??
What do you guys think?
And for those that have done 355's before, can you tell me about other things I need to consider?
-What other parts will I need for the rebuild?
-What are the best pistons for nitrous??
-What CR should I be aiming for??
-How much will machinework cost?
-Can I keep stock rods and crank (ie are they strong enough and suitable for handling 200 hp shot of nitrous)?
-the 94 LT1 in the f-body has 2 bolt mains, I've heard of ppl upgrading to 4-bolt main caps for strength, is that what I should do??
-What is a good nitrous cam for my mildly worked stock heads? I heard the 224/236 is better than mine b/c of the difference between intake & exhaust duration?? But is it worth swapping out my current cam for this?
-There are a couple of other things I will need to change on the heads like valvesprings and PR's & guideplates so am I better off getting a set of aftermarket heads while I'm in there? Obviously that would add significantly to the total cost though... I'm not too crazy about re-doing the top end to be honest. I would rather just do the 355 and spray.
I know this is a truckload of questions but I am hoping to have them answered a bit at a time. I'm in no rush LOL.
Thanks again for the help guys it's always appreciated.
PS. My current set-up is in my sig, for detailed info on current mods you can check the cardomain link (page 4) if needed.
so that has me wondering what to do? Just slap on the nitrous and see what happens? That's probably a bad idea right? I was thinking of spraying a 75-100 shot at most. The car already has a cam kit from combination motorsports with mild head porting, makes just over 340 hp to the wheels on the dynojet.
Or on the other hand do you think should I slowly start getting the parts together for a rebuild and go from there? This is what I'm leaning towards.
And then, as far as rebuilding the motor I'm not all that sure what to do?? 355? 383? I would want something with good power, decent street manners, and not too costly. I was figuring that since I already have the nitrous kit, A .030 overbore with some good forged nitrous pistons, a refreshing of the bottom end with all new main/rod bearings, would be a good start. Was thinking of maybe spraying a 175-200 shot after the rebuild. btw I have a dynotune single nozzle wet kit. Do you think this is a good idea? It shouldn't break the bank TOO much and give the car some extra power
With a 175-200 shot I should be making close to 500 WHP right??What do you guys think?
And for those that have done 355's before, can you tell me about other things I need to consider?
-What other parts will I need for the rebuild?
-What are the best pistons for nitrous??
-What CR should I be aiming for??
-How much will machinework cost?
-Can I keep stock rods and crank (ie are they strong enough and suitable for handling 200 hp shot of nitrous)?
-the 94 LT1 in the f-body has 2 bolt mains, I've heard of ppl upgrading to 4-bolt main caps for strength, is that what I should do??
-What is a good nitrous cam for my mildly worked stock heads? I heard the 224/236 is better than mine b/c of the difference between intake & exhaust duration?? But is it worth swapping out my current cam for this?
-There are a couple of other things I will need to change on the heads like valvesprings and PR's & guideplates so am I better off getting a set of aftermarket heads while I'm in there? Obviously that would add significantly to the total cost though... I'm not too crazy about re-doing the top end to be honest. I would rather just do the 355 and spray.
I know this is a truckload of questions but I am hoping to have them answered a bit at a time. I'm in no rush LOL.
Thanks again for the help guys it's always appreciated.
PS. My current set-up is in my sig, for detailed info on current mods you can check the cardomain link (page 4) if needed.
04-21-2010, 12:38 PM
#3
Registered User
Join Date: Mar 2000
Location: Muncie Dragway (Indiana)
Posts: 197
What you have described is pretty much what I am in the process of building right now. I am reusing the stock crank, Scat h beam rods with ARP bolts, and Mahle forged pistons. I have the AI 200cc package with the ported and corrected intake and I will be getting a custom cam from them when the engine is closer to being complete. I am shooting for 430 to the wheels and mid 11s before the nitrous and spraying a 150 to 175 shot on a plate after that to put me in the 10's. All while making a 50 mile round trip to the drag strip and with somewhat decent street manners.
04-21-2010, 12:58 PM
#4
Registered User
Join Date: Mar 2008
Posts: 261
355 is much cheaper than a 383 over all. You can use studs for the main caps on the 2bolts. I would spend the money in the heads, a set of le3 will set up back around 1800 (not sure if that includes the intake). You'll also need some rocker. In addition a larger tb would be a good idea. On the 355 change to forged rods and pistons. On a street car, I would do a 11cr and call comp cam for their selection of cams. In the price add gasket kit, pushrods, and motor mounts. Machine shop will charge you around $50 for the bore,$300 for assembly with cam degree, from intake to oil pan, and new bearings around $50.(usd)
04-27-2010, 09:53 PM
#6
Registered User
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: central Arkansas
Posts: 147
I'd put it on, keep your rpms low, watch your oil pressure and you may be alright. I was in the same situation as you and my factory engine still might be going but I drove the car over an hour to the track, ran back to back to back and blew a head gasket. Put it on and save for a rebuild.
