I just converted to non-SA rockers with guideplates. There seems to be some valve train noise when the engine is under load. It sounds like a steady ticking. I don't think the rockers are too loose, but I could be wrong. The noise is audible inside the car and its really pissing me off. I adjusted the valves one cylinder at a time, setting the preload at 3/4 turn. The guideplates also appear to be properly aligned. Any suggestions on what I might have done wrong ?

 

The non self aligning rockers are supposed to make more noise if Im not mistaken.

 

SA rockers make more noise. Could just be injector ticking. 1.6 roller rockers will make much more noise then stock rockers, at any rate

 

Also, you could be hearing noise from the lifters if you reused the stock ones. I'd say it's probably the rockers though, my new rockers (Comp Pro Mags, 1.6 NSA) are pretty noisy and they are spot on as far as adjustment.

 

my NSA rockers make noise also and I only have 1/2 turn on the nut with stock lifters. They will just be loud... not much you can do about it besides getting some composite valve covers to help absorb some of the sound.

 

Do it again. Suggest you go 1/4- 1/2 on the preload. Assume that you have hardened push rods with the guide plates.

You shouldn't have too much noise, especially in the car. JMHO

 

I wouldn't try 1/4 to 1/2 turn unless you've got a set of Comp R lifters, mine were loose at 1/2 turn with stock lifters, I reset them to 3/4 turn while the engine was running. Now everything is , except for the darn belts.

 

Yeah, I've always read that the stock lifters require more of a preload than the heavy duty aftermarket units. I'm going to change the lifters as my next step. I'm still running the original stockers with over a 100K on them. I expected some increase in engine noise but something clearly sounds like its out of adjustment or very worn.

 

What method did you use to set the valves?

 

I used the third method listed on Shoebox's website. This is the method in which you adjust the valves one cyclinder at a time. I ran the adjusting nut down until it stopped, taking that point as zero lash, then I cranked the motor until the exhaust valve was in the correct position to adjust the intake valve in the same cyclinder. Then I performed the reverse as described in the directions. Maybe I didn't have the lifters on the heel of the camshaft lobes when I set zero lash. Could this cause the problem ?

 

Ok, so you used the Exhaust Open Intake Close method? That's a very accurate way to get the valves setup to get the engine to fire up. Once it does, you really should adjust the valves with the motor running because the lifters won't really stay pumped up right otherwise.

 

OK, I'll try to adjust the valves with the engine running.

 

Just remember when you set the preload, turn the nuts 1/4 turn at a time and do it slowly or the lifters will bleed down.