LT1 Based Engine Tech 1993-1997 LT1/LT4 Engine Related

No spark!

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Old Aug 31, 2005 | 07:33 AM
  #16  
shoebox's Avatar
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Re: No spark!

Originally Posted by 68C10
I understand. I was mostly wanting to know if seeing tenths of a volt is definatly a problem or if that should trigger the coil.

Thanks.
I would say that is not enough voltage.
Old Aug 31, 2005 | 10:22 PM
  #17  
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Re: No spark!

Just wanted to explain what I found to be the problem for documentation purposes and to help others reading the post in the future or using the Search function like I did.

I tested my computer in another car and it ran fine so I knew that the PCM was fine.
I then swapped the cable from the opti to the pcm from his car (mine was coroded but still had good continuity) to my car and it started right up!

Only thing needing to be replaced is the cap and rotor on the opti and the opti harness.

Hope that helps someone. BTW, I am now seeing between 1-7 volts alternating current at B terminal on the ICM connector.
Old Sep 14, 2005 | 09:45 PM
  #18  
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Re: No spark!

So your problem was really your harness?
Old Oct 5, 2005 | 08:28 AM
  #19  
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Re: No spark!

I have been having a similar problem with mine. It started acting up after a opti swap (attempting to cure a "phantom" rev limiter). It starts occasionally, and I checked the opti harness with an ohm meter and it showed good. It started up when I had the harness unwrapped but then wouldn't after I put it all back together.

Guess I need to try a new harness out and hope it cures the ills. Heck, maybe that is what is giving me a false rev limit all along!
Old Oct 16, 2005 | 01:40 AM
  #20  
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Re: No spark!

Originally Posted by 68C10
I checked continuity from all the plugs at the opti and ICM back to the PCM and everything was fine
OK, been trying to battle this cranks, but no start condition of mine as well. According to Shoebox's site as well as my factory shop manual, my '97 Z28's ICM harness connector gives me 11.0V at the A terminal, and 1.5-3.0V at the D terminal; both require at least 10.0V. The B terminal gives me 2.0-6.0V (AC) cranking; 1.0-4.0V required. Because my D terminal is below spec., according to the shop manual you then proceed to check for an open/grounded circuit. How do I go about doing that? And how do I check for continuity like what he did above? I've already replaced my coil and module with some cheap parts store replacements just for the heck of it and still no starting. I even bought a scanner and no codes have shown. Please help. Thanks.

Last edited by ponchoV8; Oct 16, 2005 at 01:42 AM.
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