brand new motor. Broke it in on the dyno, and I drove it about 80 miles up until last night.
First pass out at the 1/8 mile track in Denton.
I launched and hit 2nd gear and as I was about to put it in 3rd it went pop 4-5 times kinda like a nitrous back fire or something, but I dont have nitrous. It pretty much died after that and I shut it down and coasted.
It will now no longer start. It's turning over but will not start. It will back fire out the intake every now and then when i try to start it.
There was a mechanic out there looking at it and he thinks it could possibly be the opti??
Sound right to you guys?
I had to leave it out there over night until I figure out what im going to do.

 

could very well be a opti.

 

yes, doing a search and seems it could be.
had 85,000 up to the re-build, and I only did a MSD cap & rotor swap.
should have done the whole thing.

 

I would take the opti off and take it apart and see. I would have taken it easy for more than 80 miles and the dyno before i hit the track. Thats just me though. I would have it towed to the builders location and let them figure it out.

 

Motor is broke in. Rings are seated, and I was told she was good to go. If it's the opti, it would have went out sooner or later. and I prefer now than later on if that makes sense.
The builders "Port Pro's" are now shut down, and were located 4 hours away.

 

I've had optis do very similar things when going out. Just remove the spark plug and check for spart at the plug. If its not sparking, then its either your coil or opti.

 

Opti

 

yea i had an opti that was timed wrong and it was shootin flames out of the intake and refused to start. A new opti fixed the problem. Check your grounds to.. i just had a ground break on my ICM and was having similar issues.

 

Be certain that your Opti vent system is connected and functional. If it isn't venting the Opti adequately, the life of the unit can be dramatically reduced.

 

Did you use washers for the screws that hold the cap on and use loctite on them?

 

That's all that matters. Any hint of backfiring or "hiccuping" on the drive there?

 

well as we were taking off the belt we noticed the harmonic balancer moving. NOT GOOD. as we took the balancer off the key was competely melted into the hub.
What do I do from here. Tell me I dont have to have the crank taken out . No bad grooves anywhere just not exactly smooth like it used to be.
a few shaving here and there.
Im guessing that could mess up the timing chain as well?

 

its the opti if everything is broken in. hey man how often do you go the sanger dragway? have you ever seen a green lt1 z28 and white lt1 ta up there?

 

the key is Melted? A pic would help, if you can get the key out, without the groove that it slides in being messed up a new key and balancer should fix it. if the groove is distured then the crank is junk.

And as for driving it "easy" on newer engines, their isn't really break in time anymore. generally by the time it gets to operating temp for the first time, its "broke in" the last one I did, i was racing 50 miles after it was together, started it, warmed it up, let it cool, checked everything, took it for a 50 mile drive to the track, and was racing, over 20k on engine now. Chromoly rings require a little more time, but after dyno and 80 miles he was fine.

 

I looked at your site, nice work the car looks amazing.

Did you install a key and get your hub machined for it? Stock was just a press fit(no key)