Hey, you LT1 guys are pretty smart about upgrades.... what do you think would be the best upgradefor my car? I got a 1995 Z28 A4 with hooker super comp. cat back, Moroso CAI, motorvation UD pully... any help will be GREAT!!!!!!

Casper thorottle response calibrator (89.89)go to.... summitracing.com...then online store > ingintion&electronics> computer chips and modules> casper electronics throttle enhancher

B&MAutomatic Hammer Shifter (199.95) go to.... summitracing.com...then online store>transmission>shifters>B&M hammer Automatic shifter

and will these be difficult to install? HOw long will it be/difficult, i put my other mod's on myself.... will i need ot buy anything else with these parts? ANY HELP WILL BE GREAT!!!!!

 

I'm pretty sure you can't install any other shifter on our auto's. So unless something new came out you can pretty much ax that one. And as far as the other thing, I don't even know what it is, so sorry I can't help ya. I'd start looking to invest money in gears/torque converter. They won't give you any hp increase but they'll give you a hell of a lot of seat of the pants increase. Not to mention much better track times(if you can get traction).

 

lts...
or gears if you've got 2.73s right now...

 

Gear's huh? i was thinking about possibly doing this. What do you recomend? with my mod's. It is a A4 with stock gearing (not sure what it is stock, think 2.73?) What would eb the best bet? i am going to be using street tires, so i want to make sure i hook up, but feel a diffrence. Any suggestions?

 

Well what rpms do you run at 60 in OD. I've got 3.23s and its just over 1900. Don't really know about 2.73s, but if you've got those, I would suggest 3.42s or 3.73s, depending on how much time you spend on the highway. If you've already got 3.23s then I wouldn't waste my time with those and get some headers first. I'd go for longtubes, but if you're intimidated by those, Arizona Speed & Marine has some great intermediates that come coated inside & out w/ y-pipe.

Oh yeah, you should be able to check in your glove box to see if you've got 3.23s, just look for GU5. If it's not there, you've got 2.73s, and you should really get something else.

 

I originally saw the Hooker Super Comp. thing you had on your first post and thought you meant you had headers. Yeah Long Tube headers would be a very very nice improvement. Just think you could get the Hooker Y-pipe and have a complete Hooker exhaust system. It would sound great and you'll have a very nice hp increase. Also if you do have 2:73's get some gears. If you only plan on staying on street tires and still want to get decent gas mileage and most of all get traction I'd stay with 3:42's. Definately will feel it but it won't completely eliminate your traction until later on in the mod list. By then you'll wanna upgrade anyway, trust me. I went with 3:73's and I have a 3000rpm Vigilante stall converter. I basically have no traction ever. Which is fun, but definately not good in a race or when I want to get up and out from a street corner or something. I don't wish I went with 3:42's instead, it was actually my first choice, I just had to opt for stickier tires to stay on the road. If you do decide 3:73's are what you want, you'll probably just end up buying a lot more tires instead of going faster. Your gonna have to either decide to atleast get Drag Radials on the back or stay with a lower gear ratio. You'll probably even need Drag Radials with 3:42's.

 

My vote would be to go with a set of MAC headers if you are on a budget. If not I would recommend going with Hooker long tube headers.

 

If I had your car my next upgrade would be to sell the neons.

 

big 10-4 on that one lol j/k its your ride....
IMO next would be headers or some drag radials and a tune up, plugs, wires, all fluids etc.
then after that a stall converter
how much money you gonna spend?

 

Well first of all non of that stuff you were thinkin about buyin, it wont do anything but make you a 290 bucks poorer, worry about power first then one day you might need that shifter....Hooker Long Tubes, and 373's if you do have 273's...Might wanna change your sig to "hooker catback" cause the way you have it written sounds like you have headers also

 

I just went to look and i do got GU5 in that list in the gloove box, so i guess i do have 3.23. Just learned something new to day, thats cool. So do you think i should just keep these gear's ? or go with something else? I also need to get tires for the spring, what is a pretty good high performance all season street tire?I think i am going to hold on the shifter cuz i relized today that i can upshift without pushing in the button which is also pretty cool. So header's is prolly the best upgrade to do next right? by the way i got 46,000 miles, should i still get all new plugs,wires and all that stuff? and if so what is the best to get and what all do i need? any info would be awsome!! i am learning a lot jsut by reading what everyone says, thanks

 

I don't really have a spending limit, whatever i can afford basically, so basically whatever is the best thing for the car with the lowest price tag. I know this is a really stupid question, and someone will prolly make a smart comment and make fun of me, but oh well i don't know......what exactly is a stall converter? i heard of it but ahs no idea what it really is or what is does? can somone fill me in? thanks

 

I think your probably alright with your gears for awhile. They are much better than 2:73's so no need to get to them yet. My vote is for either LT's or a Stall. I bought a Vigilante 3000rpm used for the same price I bought my Jet Hot LT's for. So your probably gonna spend about the same for either if you shop around. To answer your question. I'll try to keep this short(I have a hard time doing that). A stall converter, say a 3000rpm one, allows your car to stall out(hold the brake and hit the gas) up to 3000rpms before it allows power to the drivetrain. Very similar to a manual transmission if you pushed in the clutch and reved the motor up to 3000rpms then released the clutch. It allows us to leave right in the middle of our powerband and makes a world of difference. I think the stock stall speed is around 1200rpm's which is basically just higher than idle. It's really no good for out of the hole performance. Most peole lose .4-.5 tenths in the quarter mile with just this modification alone. I originally had 2:73's in my car. I went from hardly even being able to spin my tires, if at all. To lighting them up for a smoke show anytime I wanted. With your stock gears you'll be even better off. Once I got sticky tires I screamed outta the hole like crazy, now with 3:73's you can't even imagine. It's crazy how I launch now when I can get traction, which isn't often.

 

Longtubes or 3.73's.

 

Hey thanks a lot Jay-Roll!!!!!! that really help out. i know what it is now, so like when you sit at a complete stop, hold the brakes in and push the gas it will let the RPM's go up higher so you gett a better launch. Makes a whole lot of sense now. What is a good stall converter? is that hard to install or is it better to get a shop to do that? thanks