First off...Im not trying to step on any toes. Im really just curious bc Im at the point in the game where this is my next mod, and I want to be happy with my decision.

What Im looking for is bang for buck+reliability. This has to be a DD!!! As far as budget goes....lets not be too crazy...I am just your regular Joe.

Every one says that boost = $$$$ but I want to know is it really that much more for what your gonna get?

Assuming you have the option of purchasing used parts....like the heads, the supercharger and intercooler, and the nitrous kit.

However I would buy parts like these new: the crank, pistons, connecting rods, pushrods, bearings, oil pump etc...new

Valvetrain: RR, Springs, locks, retainers, etc....I would purchase either way....new or used

Which would be the better build...a supercharged/forged 350 or 355, or a n/a 383 h/c, or why not...whatever stoke/forged plus spray. Now keep in mind the bottle has to be refilled and at 3.5-4.5 a lb.... it adds up quick. Also by Better, I mean performance+reliability

used heads: 750-2000

used supercharger+intercooler: 1500-2800

used nitrous (wet): 450-750 includes nitrous kit, purge, heater, wot, window switch, and bottle pressure guage

have not seen to many direct ports used...and I know some of you guys are gonna forge and put like a 300 shot on it, so I will let this be up to you on price. But I would assume around 900-1200 used with same accessories as listed above.

Also we are assuming that you need some one to install the h/c, build the stroker, and tune.

You can put on supercharger and nitrous kit. But you still need someone to tune for both, and to put in any internal parts.

Rest of car is finished...tranny, rearend, rims/tires


Just build me a motor...Give me the estimated price....dont skimp on parts to make the price look good, and rank the reliability.

Currently the car runs 12.4 in the 1/4

For reliability assume that the car see the track once a week (3-5 1/4 mile passes), is a daily driver (travels 400 miles a week), and when driven its not tortured but its not grannied either....so i guess normal driving.

I hope I put this in the Right section...I dont want it to get really technical, but I would like some reasoning behind your opinion.

Thanks,

Pride

 

Personally, I'd go with a forged 355 N2O motor with a decent (not crazy) heads/cam package on a daily driver. I'd keep the nitrous to a 100 shot for 2 reasons. First off, it'll put less pressure on the motor, and secondly, you'll have to refill it less. With a decent combo you should see high 11's on motor and low 11's, maybe even a high 10 on the spray. Also, when you're not using it the N2O isn't putting any extra strain on your motor and you can still get on it whenever. (I'm only picking the 355 over a 383 because I'm assuming it'd save a bunch of money. If not, then go with an N2O 383.)

This is just my suggestion and not necessarily the best option. Let us know what you route you take!

 

Used heads 750-2000 that's a big price range and for 2K you can get a new set of heads.

 

all the above!! its what i did i love every minute of it.

 

yeah the price range was broad....I guess I should have added a disclaimer...that the 2000 include the cam...and these were also a really nasty set of heads.

But yes these are the prices Ive seen on here for used heads.

great....keep it coming,

Btw...on a 100 shot I was getting about 14 1/8th mile passes so thats about 5-7 1/4's I guess....Thats still almost $35 a week....almost....but I like the idea.

Thanks,

Pride

 

I've never built one before but I'd think a blower motor and blower setup will run you 10k+ to be done right. If you have the cash thats the way I'd go. You can have great drivability and stupid power when you hit the gas.

 

Yeah, the nitrous cost will depend on how much you hit it. If you're one of the guys who sprays on the way to pick up a pizza then it may get expensive

 

Unless you're running a motor set up for a serious shot of nitrous the motor shouldn't be sluggish off the bottle.

 

this question can not even begin to be answered without knowing your budget

 

Z28Roxy, he's building a daily driver, so I'm guessing that he's not gonna be running a huge shot. He won't lose alot of power due to tuning, he won't need a nitrous specific stall that'd kill an NA motor, and he'll be able to run high compression. Obviously a streetable boosted motor will beat a streetable NA motor, but that doesn't mean that an N2O street motor will be sluggish compared to an NA motor. I agree that it's a yes and no topic.

 

Make it easy..do all three.

 

Nitrous would be the best bang for your buck in my opinion especially for a daily driver. Keep in mind though you will still have to fill the bottle depending on useage; heavy foot/racing the more you will have to replenish etc.

 

okay, i will tell you boost all the way, and this is how I would do it.
Heads, get a set of LE1 or LE2 heads and use the stock cam
Get a set of JE pistons (760)
Scat H-beam rods (400)
Forged crank (650)
then the cost of machine work (1000 or so)
Then either a supercharger, or a turbo setup from lt1boost.net
Fuel pump (100)
injectors (60# for 350)


you could do a setup for around 7500 i'd say

 

I've heard that these stock cranks are pretty tough.

Could I just use stock crank, stay w/ my hotcam, stock heads, upgade: pistons, rods, fuel pump, and injectors. Get a used supercharger and intercooler, and run like 8-10 of boost.....reliable?

I talked to the guy who put my cam in...and he said that even with a really nice set of heads that most likely I would only pick up 35-45 rwhp....thats not alot for $1700....heads, install, and tune

As far as budget...I was looking in th 5K range but I also wanted to know cost to gain to reliablity data.

Thanks,

Pride

 

yes, you could do that. There are plenty of people runnign stock cranks in forced induction applications. If you are only looking for like 400-450 RWHP, you could even use stock rods with ARP rod bolts, but 8-10 PSI your looking around the 500 RWP mark