MaddHatter

Here's what I know...

WP blows so we replace it and the opti while I'm down there (thing was a bitch to get in) We also removed all the EGR **** and I cut the intake up a little for better air flow. We put everything back in and plugged all the wires back up. All the hoses are good, no leaks, etc. We filled it with 1/2 water, 1/2 anti freeze and bled the air out of the system. We checked the thermo and it looked good (its a 180) but it's still stock and quite old.

Before the WP blew, I was at a constant 180 never more no matter how hot outside, with A/C on High... now, even with heater at full blast, I run a constant 210-230 on the highway and 200-210 idling or on the streets.

How do I get it back down to 160-180? What should I check? I plan on replacing the WP soon with an E-WP and a 160* thermo but didn't have the money right now. Since the install, I've put in another jug of Anti-freeze and bled the system 3 more times. Is it just pockets of air I haven't gotten out? bad thermo? EGR removal throwing off the computer/gauges?

Pleasee Help... TIA!

Red_94Formula

do the fans come on? maybe something got clogged in the coolant system. is there strong flow of coolant?

MaddHatter

The fans do come on but how would I check a clog?

Red_94Formula

its kinda hard. open the rad cap when the car is on you should be able to see a stream of water flowing. the pump is wire correctly right? it can be wire backwards. any GM dealer can flush the system that might help.

MaddHatter

I believe we wired it correctly, are the wires compatible with each other as far as the male/female connections go? Should I do a radiator flush or should I upgrade the radiator to perhaps a 3core system then flush it? Would the WP work at all if it was wired backwards? Should I let hte car idle and pour coolant in and bleed the system again? If I'm bleeding the system should it be with the cap on or off?

FastZinTennessee

Bleed the system with the cap on, and the car hot. That way the system will be under pressure and it will help to push the air out.

Also, you might want to check the operation of the radiator. Find someone with one of those laser temperature guns, you know the ones you point the laser beam at something, and it reads the surface temperature. You might be able to talk a mechanic into borrowing one for a few, or if you want to buy on they aren't that expensive. Basically you want to check the two big hoses, one on each side of the radiator. You should notice a fairly large diference in temperature between the two. When my radiator went bad, I only got a 12* drop between the hoses. Put a new radiator in and problem fixed.

MaddHatter

I'll check the radiator and add more coolant when I leave work then bleed the system when I get home... should be plenty warm by then. Thanks and I'll post up if it helped... if not any advice?

FastZinTennessee

Make sure you check the radiator with the car running, fully hot and both cooling fans on.

Good luck.

MaddHatter

How large a capacity does the stock radiator/coolant system have? I've emptied 2 jugs of coolant and it's still low every time I open it back up... I filled it to the top then capped it off, started the car, then bled the system... I then drove home, opened the hood with the car still running @ 210* opened up both lines and got only coolant... shut both off after bout 10 seconds and the car was still running 210* ... bad radiator? bad thermo?

Formula_one

First off... I converted to an electric waterpump and it was the worst mod I've done. My car runs hot with it. I have yet to convert it back because the car has been sitting for 4 months.

Anyway, I would check your oil and see if there is coolant in it (or vice versa).. It is possible you blew your head gasket and that is why you keep having to refill the coolant. Also, how full is your overflow bottle? Are you SURE the hoses are in the correct places? I had a friend mix up the 2 smaller hoses by the cap (overflow and regular coolant passage) and wondered why it ran hot (maybe you mixed up the others? just a thought)... I would also try getting a new thermo, they are cheap enough(but that doesnt explain the loss of coolant)... Lemme know what ya find...

Mtrhds94Z

I believe we wired it correctly, are the wires compatible with each other as far as the male/female connections go? Would the WP work at all if it was wired backwards?
*************************************8
You are posting conflicting info?
Do you have an electric WP or not?
If you DO[it seems you DO?]
then yes wired'backwards' would run it in reverse...
DC motors rely on polarity for 'direction'?

Maybe it's backwards...

MaddHatter

it is NOT Electric... The guy above said it could be wired backwards and I assumed it wasn't b/c I didn't remember any wires other then the sensor

Kraest

Not to be a dick, but if you improperly install anything, it'll malfunction.

Since the install of my Meziere Electric WP, my 396 with 11.8:1 compression runs at a constant 175 F.

At one point when my car was running hot, I replaced the radiator with less than 75000 miles on the car. It fixed the problem perfectly.


Mike

MaddHatter

I'm gonna look into a new thermo first, then if that doesn't fix it, a new radiator. Hoses are all in the right spots and There's no oil in the coolant as far as i can see

Red_94Formula

oh sorry I got everyone confused. I figured it was electric from the start.

when you fill it up the first time bleeding alone cant get all the air out. the best way it to drive it around on some turns. keep on fillin it up.

if it was a head gasket and he was loosing that much water he would def notice a miss fire. is there a miss fire at idle? motor not running smooth at idle? we can rule out that one right there.