new valves?
11-09-2007, 08:35 AM
#1
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Location: lowry crossing, tx
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new valves?
i need new valves in my stock heads, im doing a mild\small sr cam and porting the heads my self im going to take the heads in to get bronze guides and the new valves installed...
what valves are good? where can i order them? how much longer should i get? .100? i was told to get a stainless steel one piece valve, is that a good choice?
im all about doing the best parts i can without breaking the bank, aren't we all... just want to hear what other guys are doing.
-doug
what valves are good? where can i order them? how much longer should i get? .100? i was told to get a stainless steel one piece valve, is that a good choice?
im all about doing the best parts i can without breaking the bank, aren't we all... just want to hear what other guys are doing.
-doug
11-09-2007, 09:56 AM
#2
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Location: PORTLAND, OR, MULTNOMAH
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I use Manley 2.00/1.56 race-flow valves with undercut stems (for lightness). You can get some serious strength ones if you are going aggressive, but the race-flows work well for street strip.
You, of course can stay with the stock sizes.
As far as brands, there are many to choose from--Summit has some for $127.00--stainless, undercut, swirl polished.
As far as porting yourself, you will get the most out of your job by porting the pockets because that is where the biggest restriction is.
If you are going with a cam, I suggest building your valve train up to support the cam, including non-sa adjusting 1.6 RRs, gmp quide plates, hardened push rods and dual-springs. JMHO
You, of course can stay with the stock sizes.
As far as brands, there are many to choose from--Summit has some for $127.00--stainless, undercut, swirl polished.
As far as porting yourself, you will get the most out of your job by porting the pockets because that is where the biggest restriction is.
If you are going with a cam, I suggest building your valve train up to support the cam, including non-sa adjusting 1.6 RRs, gmp quide plates, hardened push rods and dual-springs. JMHO
11-09-2007, 03:28 PM
#3
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BTW: if you are going with new valves you might consider getting bigger stems rather than going with new guides. I believe Manley provides different sizes, .015 probably being the most used. Messing with the valve quides on an aluminum head might be trouble, and just going with a larger valves stem may be your best bet. Less labor mean less $$. JMHO
11-10-2007, 12:31 AM
#4
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If you are going with a cam, I suggest building your valve train up to support the cam, including non-sa adjusting 1.6 RRs, gmp quide plates, hardened push rods and dual-springs. JMH
-i have non sa rr, dual springs, ti ret., going to match pushrods and guide plates last... the cam is comp and lifters are comp as well, 'enduro' i think.
Manley provides different sizes, .015 probably being the most used
-sounds great, how do i know which one? what would i do to install? hone hole to fit valve? or measure hole to pick valve?
Messing with the valve quides on an aluminum head might be trouble
-how so? isnt going to bronze guides a good plan, or is the factory guide good enough? what is the factory guide?
Less labor mean less $
-very true but, how much is it to have new guides installed? how about new valves? would bigger valves (2.00-1.56) require new seats or would the factory seat be cut for the bigger valve?
sorry if im to inquizative i want to learn how this right. i like doing every part of the build.
-doug
-i have non sa rr, dual springs, ti ret., going to match pushrods and guide plates last... the cam is comp and lifters are comp as well, 'enduro' i think.
Manley provides different sizes, .015 probably being the most used
-sounds great, how do i know which one? what would i do to install? hone hole to fit valve? or measure hole to pick valve?
Messing with the valve quides on an aluminum head might be trouble
-how so? isnt going to bronze guides a good plan, or is the factory guide good enough? what is the factory guide?
Less labor mean less $
-very true but, how much is it to have new guides installed? how about new valves? would bigger valves (2.00-1.56) require new seats or would the factory seat be cut for the bigger valve?
sorry if im to inquizative i want to learn how this right. i like doing every part of the build.
-doug
Last edited by blackgold84; 11-10-2007 at 12:37 AM.
11-10-2007, 06:55 AM
#5
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Posts: 4,800
2.0/1.56 is a pretty good fit on the stock valve seats, bigger and you need to have new seats put in.
Keep and eye on the titanium retainers, have seen cheap ones crack under street use, the surface finish is not that good and leaves places for cracks to start.
Keep and eye on the titanium retainers, have seen cheap ones crack under street use, the surface finish is not that good and leaves places for cracks to start.
11-10-2007, 12:34 PM
#6
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Location: Bay Area, CA
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You HAVE to run bronze guides with stainless valves - cast iron guides with stainless guides causes galling and stuck valves.
I charge 1.5 hours to change over to bronze guides - liners or full replacement, liners being cheaper parts wise $1.0 per vs $3.0per. And then the valve job needs to be done to be concentric to the new guides - 2.5 hour for stock 3-angle, 4.5 hour for radius-comp and bowl blend.
Manley 2.0/1.56 or Ferrea valves are the way to go.
Manley: 11500-8/11501-8
Ferrea: F6165/F6161
I charge 1.5 hours to change over to bronze guides - liners or full replacement, liners being cheaper parts wise $1.0 per vs $3.0per. And then the valve job needs to be done to be concentric to the new guides - 2.5 hour for stock 3-angle, 4.5 hour for radius-comp and bowl blend.
Manley 2.0/1.56 or Ferrea valves are the way to go.
Manley: 11500-8/11501-8
Ferrea: F6165/F6161
Last edited by MachinistOne; 11-10-2007 at 12:36 PM.
11-10-2007, 10:15 PM
#7
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Location: lowry crossing, tx
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is it a good idea to get longer valves to relieve the valve of some stress?
is it something you would do to gain clearance to the seal?
or even to achive the proper installed height?
96capricemgr - how often do you think i should look after every night of thrashing or after a 5k miles or so? my car is thrashed and driven on the street for fun.
is it something you would do to gain clearance to the seal?
or even to achive the proper installed height?
96capricemgr - how often do you think i should look after every night of thrashing or after a 5k miles or so? my car is thrashed and driven on the street for fun.
Last edited by blackgold84; 11-11-2007 at 02:15 AM.
11-11-2007, 02:18 AM
#8
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Longer valves are only used to gain installed height to match the lift of the cam and to meet spring specifications for that cam. Pick your cam and springs, then based off what the required installed height is, you will choose a valve/retainer combination to fit.
Post your cam specs please.
Post your cam specs please.
11-11-2007, 03:19 PM
#9
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Location: lowry crossing, tx
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specs
i bought this set up used...was run less than 10k miles, sold, not used, then sold again, to me.
intake
comp grind number - 4872
duration @ .050 - 230*
lift .553"
exhaust
comp grind number - 4873
duration @ .050 - 236*
lift .565
solid roller on a 112 lsa
when i called comp to get this info by the numbers on the cam itself i was told to use a 918 behive spring.
the springs that came with this cam when i got it are dual springs with a damper, retainers are titainium, roller rockers are comp pro mag 1.52 and 1.6, and the comp solid roller lifters. i dont know what the springs are, so whats a good installed height for them?
i can't wait to hear this thing sing, even tho its kinda small.
-doug
intake
comp grind number - 4872
duration @ .050 - 230*
lift .553"
exhaust
comp grind number - 4873
duration @ .050 - 236*
lift .565
solid roller on a 112 lsa
when i called comp to get this info by the numbers on the cam itself i was told to use a 918 behive spring.
the springs that came with this cam when i got it are dual springs with a damper, retainers are titainium, roller rockers are comp pro mag 1.52 and 1.6, and the comp solid roller lifters. i dont know what the springs are, so whats a good installed height for them?
i can't wait to hear this thing sing, even tho its kinda small.
-doug
11-11-2007, 04:34 PM
#10
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Location: Bay Area, CA
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I would be using 1.6 on both - that's low lift for a solid roller, I have never used one of comp's "Street" solid rollers, but 918 spring pressures seem WAY too low. Solid roller pressures are typically 210-230/500-650.
Take the springs you have in to be checked for seated pressure at a couple different points, and you can extrapolate spring rate from that information.
Take the springs you have in to be checked for seated pressure at a couple different points, and you can extrapolate spring rate from that information.
11-13-2007, 07:36 AM
#12
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Location: lowry crossing, tx
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head gasket
what is the fel pro # for the thinner impala gasket?
im running taller pistons as well, just by a little bit tho. i think 1.55" or 1.56" compression height, i'd love to see this motor @ 11 to 1.
def getting valve job b/c of larger ss valves.
-doug
ps does any on think i should get longer valves?
im running taller pistons as well, just by a little bit tho. i think 1.55" or 1.56" compression height, i'd love to see this motor @ 11 to 1.
def getting valve job b/c of larger ss valves.
-doug
ps does any on think i should get longer valves?
11-13-2007, 09:03 AM
#14
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Location: Elkton, Va
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I don't want you to take us as being mean or harsh but honestly, some things are best left to the pro's or left alone.
11-13-2007, 11:30 AM
#15
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Location: lowry crossing, tx
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for sure
i agree but the lt1 was free, so im gonna learn as much as possible by doing every thing i can my self. some stuff like valvetrain is a little harder to grasp right of the bat. i know i cant do a valve job, i dont have the tools, thats my deal. if i cant do it its cause i cant. [i.e. dont have a the tool] the whole point of my lt1 is to dive in face first and see what i personally can do.