I had my car tuned from ion, ran ran before i sent him the pcm. got the pcm back tuned, started up and shuts off in five seconds, i can start it five times and will still get the same results. got my second pcm thought maybe the first pcm or tun was bad, same results. Starts up, will run and then dies

I had madz28 do the following:

Perfomance heads and cam tuning (premium octane use)
Knock retard desensitizing
Rev limiter set to 6700 rpm
Disable speed limiter
Coolant fans readjusted to 205*F (low speed) and 215*(high)
Disable AIR
Disable EGR
Disable O2's
Disable carbon canister codes
Increase shift firmness
Raised shift points to ~6100 rpm
Idle set at 725/750 rpm for gear/neutral

I didnt run o2's after i did my lt'header install a few years ago, melted the plastic end. So i have ran it with o2s for about 3 years now. Since I had him disable my O2's did this mess up the way my pcm was running on the defualt or "pe" program i think it is? Im thinking Ill send him my pcm again and have him enable my O2's and disable the vats, if thats a chance that it is whats causing this problem.

 

Rear o2s have absolutely no effect on driveability. They are there for checking on the cats. The PCM will set a code if it doesn't like their numbers compared to front o2s, but they do not have any other function. There must be something else going on with your car, since both of the PCMs I sent you were in perfect working order and the program is fine. It is weird that it happened after tuning though.

 

how lovely , a useless car now.

 

You can send both PCMs back and I'll set one back to stock and refund your payment, minus the shipping charges. I've programmed tons of OBD2s. Never had such a problem. I know both PCMs and the program is good.

 

im not doubting your work, im just mad because i just got a new engine spun bearings in the original, replaced the a4 rebuild 4 months ago, really not much else can go wrong now and my parents keep b!tching at me about my car.

 

should i mail my pcm back to ion and have him disable my vats? worth the time or no.

 

Instead of disabling it thru tuning which really doesnt work anyway, just figure out the resistance of that chip in your key and then go find a resistor to splice into the VATS wiring. Im not sure how you go about finding which wires but just do a search and youll be good to go... I believe shoebox actually has instructions on how to do this as well.

 

Go to the last page of the thread by ZKrage about his PCM problem. There youll find how to disable the VATS. Sounds like you guys have the same problem.

 

thank you buddy, ill try to get it all together and try it tomorrow

 

Putting in the resistor for the key pellet will not fix a problem that is only with the fuel enable signal. It only bypasses the need for the key pellet. Re-programming will bypass the need for the fuel enable signal from the VATS. Instead of re-programming, you can buy a bypass module that simulates this PWM ground signal.

Wildwill2855 : any possibiltiy you might have bent a pin on the PCM connector when swapping them? (especially C1, pin 25) (assuming your car is OBD-II by what Ion has said. You don't seem to provide that info.)

 

Im sure Ion disabled VATS but I thought putting in the resistor took care of everything! I sure hope I never have these kinda problems.

 

Yeah you never have any fricken problems.

 

on my order, i didnt ask the vats to be disabled. unless he did it the second tmie on his own, ill ask him. yea its a obd2, 97

 

shoebox, no pens bent, i can get it programed for 20.00 tops all ive got to do is pay shipping, if it will work you think ill try it.

 

should i still try to disable the key pellet then?