Just got new 4.10s in and was wondering what you should do to properly break in the gears

 

30 min/ mile drive NO BEATING, cool completely. repeat, and let the smoke fest begin!

 

Install correct oil and friction modifier and DRIVE IT LIKE YOU STOLE IT.

 

For Drag Racing Only on a new set of gears jack up car warm up rear for about 3 minutes and pull to line.

For Street Use just do some heat cycles on it a few times and it's ready pretty much what CarNutz said.

 

about 50 miles then drain the fluid & take the cover off & spray it out with brake cleaner to get ALL the little metal fragments out & refill with good gear oil !!!

 

no no you all got it wrong take it to the line rev up to 7800 and drop it thats the only way to seat the gears lol

 

your safest best it just to call Moser yourself. I know a couple guys that work there they will be more than glad to answer a few questions.

http://www.moserengineering.com/mose...icalassist.htm

(260)726-6689

 

moser has a procedure on there web site.

M/E Ring & Pinion Gears Break-In Procedure
A new ring and pinon installed with new bearings will initially generate higher than normal operating temperatures. It is advisable to use whichever of the following break-in procedures that matches your application.

Street
1) With car still on jack stands and rear end filled with proper amount of Non-Synthetic lube, run in forward and reverse for approximately 2 to 3 minutes. **
2) Drive vehicle approximately 10 miles at normal operating speed. Accelerate and decelerate several times conservatively, then let cool for one hour.

Drag Racing
1) With car still on jack stands and rear end filled with proper amount of Non-Synthetic lube, run in forward and reverse for approximately 2 to 3 minutes. **
2) Pull to line.

Oval Track
1) With car still on jack stands and rear end filled with proper amount of Non-Synthetic lube, run in forward and reverse for approximately 2 to 3 minutes. **
2) Run several laps at slow to medium speeds; let cool.
3) Run several hot laps; let cool.

 

If the gears are installed correctly, you can back the car off the hoist and go for it. No break-in. If they are not properly installed, no amount of pansy heating and cooling cylces will help. And the idea that a "new" set of gears will make metal and require cleaning with Brake-clean is nuts. Any set that makes metal is toast, period. The tiny amounts of wear metal are picked up by the magnet. Most of the metal in these diffs is created by the stupid Auburn limited slip unit, and that mechanism alone makes enough metal to mangle every bearing in the diff anyways. Change the oil once a year as a result. Don't worry about break-in. It's breaking itself from the word go anyways.

 

WHats the difference between synthetic and non-synthen and why should you not use it in a differential?

 

you need friction for the clutches in the eaton posi unit that Moser uses. without it the clutchs will not engauge correctly. Syntyhetic oil has smaller molicules and will not grab as well so All aftermarket posi units that I have ever seen says not to use synthetic.

 

EDIT: Actually not ALL posi units require regular oil and additive. Only clutch-type posi units require that. Gear type units such as Torsens actually work better with synthetic and no additive is required.