a die grinder with a grinding burr in it instead of a cut off wheel. I meant ot say tack welded. as in spot welded. or, as in not welded all the way around. if I remember right, it was spot welded at each end. is the counterweight between the flexplate and the oil pan, or the flexplate, and the trans? if it faces foward, then you should be able to take the starter off and have more access to it. if it faces back, then it depends on what size your convertor is. Im goin to guess fuddle's conv. is 9.5" diameter right? should have lots of room if thats the case.

 

I just started the car for the first time today and it ran horrible it sounded like it was misfiring and stumbling, but as soon as it warmed, took about 30 sec, it was running fine. I am stumped. The engine is shacking a little, not that bad but the funny thing is that the car shacks mostly between 1100 and 1300 rpms the rest of the time it is not bad. I opened the throttle a little bit with the screw on the side of the t/b since i have not drilled that hole and the car started right up the first time, but then when i tried to start it again it needed gas. Any ideas

Also do you guys think it has any thing to do with either me not installing the fuel pump yet or the tuning? Isn’t engine stumbling at start up an incorrect fuel/air mixture

 

I noticed something else. The car hesitates when i hit the gas. And when it hit the gas and released really fast over and over the car stalled. Also i forgot that on the ECU tune that i had it set up for premium octane use only. Will that have any effect here you think?

 

If you haven't installed the fuel pump how are you getting gas to the injectors? The injectors have to be under pressure.

 

i have not installed the new fuel pump...

 

Just a thought. I purchased a 383 kit from a fella who told me the kit was balanced. I recieved the total rotating assembly along with a block and heads. Had the machine shop machine the block and do the head work. After having assembled the whole thing I was doing some reading and I called eagle and asked if the rotating assembly was balanced. They told me NO it was not balanced. needless to say I disasembled everything and took it down to a shop and had it balanced. I also brought them my flex plate and they removed the weight and rebalanced the flex plate to 0.

 

The haynes manual states for a fluid CHANGE you need approx 5 quarts (just dropping the pan) To fill an empty trans you need 10-12 quarts depending on converter and cooler size.

 

yea i was getting that feeling. eaither way im getting a significant leak from the drive axle seal even though i replaced it. doing things twice is realy getting anoying.

 

finished swaping pump to 255 LPH. No change in performance. stumbles only at start up

 

Im done working on the car for the day. I dont know what is wrong with the car but it still needs gas on start up and stumbles for a min. For about 5-10 sec after i start up I need to tap the gas a couple times then the car will run on its own fine.
Any other ideas will be helpful

 

any ideas?

 

I was able to use a scanner and i have these clips of information when the car was spuddering. Take a look. This is when the engine is close to operating temp and it has just been started and is sputtering. I will try to post some info of the car when its not sputtering so we can see the difference. sry about it being hard to read but the forum wont let me space them. It looks like the first 02 on the second bank is runing lean. what do you guys make of it.

Fuel sys 1 OL
Fuel sys 2 OL
Calc load % 0 0 3.5 6.6 4.7
ECT (F) 206 206 206 208 210
STFT B1 % 0 0 0 0 -1.5
LTFT B1 % 0 0 0 0 .7
STFT B2 % 0 0 0 0 .7
LTFT B2 % 0 0 5.4 8.5 9.3
MAP (INHG) 25.1 21.8 20.3 12.6 17.7
ENG RPM 0 1377 970 1475 888
SPARK ADV 0 28 31 39 17
IAT (F) 141 141 140 138 136
MAF (LB/MIN) 0 1.291 2.261 1.978 1.301
TPS % 0 0 5 1.9 0
02S B1 S1 V .03 .8 .375 .760 .275
STFT B1 S1 % 0 0 0 0 -1.5
02S B1 S2 V .85 .905 .840 .865 .9
02S B2 S1 V .04 .2 .725 .870 .535
STFT B2 S1 % 0 0 0 0 .7
02S B2 S2 V .87 .915 .88 .9 .885