New 383 Major Engine Problem
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Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 953
From: S. Ontario, Canada
Re: New 383 Major Engine Problem
When the valve covers were off - did you check the valvesprings closely to make sure that they were all intact? A broken valve spring could cause the symtoms that you're experiencing.
The SES light coming on and flashing indicates a missfire. Have your car scanned and see which cylinder is missfiring... then you'll at least know where to look.
The SES light coming on and flashing indicates a missfire. Have your car scanned and see which cylinder is missfiring... then you'll at least know where to look.
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Joined: Jun 2001
Posts: 3,737
From: waterford, MI - USA
Re: New 383 Major Engine Problem
yeah, a flashing light only means one thing, misfire. broken valve springs is a god possibility, but only if you have double springs. do you know what springs are in there?
Thread Starter
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Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 101
Problem Found!
Well got under the car today to inspect other areas for knock. When I got under the car I noticed the harmonic balancer was vibrating badly, and moving several cm in all directions. Turned the car off, inspected it with the belt tensioner loose and noticed that it was very loose and wobbly even though the bolts holding it to the hub were secure.
I have since pulled off the harmonic balancer and the hub, the piece sticking out (yet again pardon my ignorance) is what has been making the knocking sound. It is loose and would be the cause of the problem. Is this the crankshaft and if so, would it be safe to say it is broken?
I have since pulled off the harmonic balancer and the hub, the piece sticking out (yet again pardon my ignorance) is what has been making the knocking sound. It is loose and would be the cause of the problem. Is this the crankshaft and if so, would it be safe to say it is broken?
Thread Starter
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Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 101
Re: New 383 Major Engine Problem
No I already removed that......the harmonic balancer, then the hub or the y piece you are referring to have been taken off. I am referring to the piece after that......
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Joined: Jul 2000
Posts: 88
From: PORT ARTHUR, TEXAS, US
Re: New 383 Major Engine Problem
You're talking about the metal shaft the Y piece bolts onto?? That would be bad....that would be the crankshaft. You can grad it with your hand, and wiggle it around??
Don't try to turn that thing over again, definitely check your oil for metal.
Don't try to turn that thing over again, definitely check your oil for metal.
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Joined: Aug 1998
Posts: 334
From: Flower Mound, TX USA
Re: New 383 Major Engine Problem
Originally Posted by TUNDRKYS
You're talking about the metal shaft the Y piece bolts onto?? That would be bad....that would be the crankshaft. You can grad it with your hand, and wiggle it around??
Don't try to turn that thing over again, definitely check your oil for metal.
Don't try to turn that thing over again, definitely check your oil for metal.
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Joined: Feb 2001
Posts: 1,450
From: Belleville, IL
Re: Problem Found!
Originally Posted by ZKrazed
Is this the crankshaft and if so, would it be safe to say it is broken?
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Joined: May 2005
Posts: 36
Re: New 383 Major Engine Problem
ok since your tank was under 1/4 tank, ever consider you damaged your fuel pump? my Impala ss has eaten 2 pumps due to low fuel levels, it stumbled stuttered and then just died prior to having to replace it. now think of it as a possible fuel starvation problem if it isn't internal in the engine, your new 383 needs lots more fuel than stock and even though you upgraded your pump, still you can damage your pump alot faster that way with it being "higher performance", the banging and vibration? lean fuel air ratio problems? just a new way to think of things.
Thread Starter
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Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 101
Re: New 383 Major Engine Problem
No I would prolly go with the other guys with the (Eagle Cast Steel)crankshaft being broken. I can not turn the crankshaft by hand. However, there is enough play in it to wiggle it up and down and side to side. Not like a few inches but def several centimeters. (The rest of my engine specs are on the 3'rd page of my site in my sig)
Chad said that he has never had this happen, but will not know if it is the crankshaft being broken until Monday. I am taking pictures of the inside of the hub, the end of the crankshaft, draining the oil, and opening up the oil filter tomorrow. I have to go to work currently.
For those who would like to help, I will post the pictures on my cardomain site in my sig, and go from there.
Chad said that he has never had this happen, but will not know if it is the crankshaft being broken until Monday. I am taking pictures of the inside of the hub, the end of the crankshaft, draining the oil, and opening up the oil filter tomorrow. I have to go to work currently.
For those who would like to help, I will post the pictures on my cardomain site in my sig, and go from there.
Last edited by ZKrazed; Jun 20, 2005 at 04:02 PM.
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Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 2,724
From: Oklahoma where trees are made of wood.
Re: New 383 Major Engine Problem
Eagle cast crank again eh, I had one eat my thrust bearing pretty good. If you buy another one have the journals and the thrust surface polished.
I replaced my crank with another eagle cast steel crank and when I took it in to have it balanced my machinist noticed the thrust surface was not smooth but rough. He polished it and I havent had any problems "cossing fingers"
I replaced my crank with another eagle cast steel crank and when I took it in to have it balanced my machinist noticed the thrust surface was not smooth but rough. He polished it and I havent had any problems "cossing fingers"
Retired
Joined: Oct 1999
Posts: 3,166
From: Inside Uranus
Re: New 383 Major Engine Problem
Man, that sucks. Personally, when I did my 396 buildup, I went with a Callies forged crank, forged rods, and JE forged pistons. IMO, there's no reason to save a small amount of money and buy a cast crank. Honestly, the cast one should have worked fine with your setup especially with the power you're producing... which brings us to the next question... Why are you so down on power? A ported LT1-headed 383 with a decent sized cam like you have shouldn't be anywhere close to 400hp on the engine dyno.
Mike
Mike
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Joined: May 2003
Posts: 6,661
From: LA (lower Alabama)
Re: New 383 Major Engine Problem
Originally Posted by ZKrazed
No I would prolly go with the other guys with the (Eagle Cast Steel)crankshaft being broken. I can not turn the crankshaft by hand. However, there is enough play in it to wiggle it up and down and side to side. Not like a few inches but def several centimeters. (The rest of my engine specs are on the 3'rd page of my site in my sig)
Chad said that he has never had this happen, but will not know if it is the crankshaft being broken until Monday. I am taking pictures of the inside of the hub, the end of the crankshaft, draining the oil, and opening up the oil filter tomorrow. I have to go to work currently.
For those who would like to help, I will post the pictures on my cardomain site in my sig, and go from there. Is this really something that should not have happened period???????
Chad said that he has never had this happen, but will not know if it is the crankshaft being broken until Monday. I am taking pictures of the inside of the hub, the end of the crankshaft, draining the oil, and opening up the oil filter tomorrow. I have to go to work currently.
For those who would like to help, I will post the pictures on my cardomain site in my sig, and go from there. Is this really something that should not have happened period???????
The crank broke plain and simple.
It probably broke at the edge of a main journal. If the crank was turned it did not have a large enough radius at the edges of the journals. If it is an after market crank the same thing,either way it is the mistake of whoever machined the crank. Be thankful it wasn't a rod journal and ruined your cam,block,and possibly one or both heads.
If ya can wiggle the crank snout,start pulling it and get a RMA number,and take it far enough appart to see what it is-pan, timing cover,front main cap and possibly the front two rods.That way ya will know and no BS on the RMA.Take PICTURES when ya find it.
Last edited by 1racerdude; Jun 17, 2005 at 08:53 PM.