I started asking questions in the "how weak is the stock crank" thread and decided to just start my own instead of whoring that one.

My shopping list is...

Callies Dragon Slayer Crank - $767
Howard Powder forged rods - $599 (6.0 " , 585g)
Mahle power pack pistons (comes with their low tension rings) - $570
Renegade 4 bolt splayed caps - $600 (purchase price, block work, installation and align boring)
Clevite H bearings - $135
Powerbond 8" balancer - $150 internal balance
stock flywheel

Total cost including freshening up the block = $2900

My goals are 400+ RWHP NA and 600+ n2o spraying a 200 wetshot

But if I could save $800 (not buy the crank) and spend that somewhere else without worries, that would be great.

Preceeding info woul be....I bought a 383 setup from some one, dropped a valve and since the heads were off, I sent them out to be ported. In addition the previous owner used an Eagle cast crank, I dunno about the rods, and KB hyper pistons (which the valve dropping did a number on).

In
.100---68.2
.200---135.1
.300---192.4
.400---231.1
.500---263.3
.550---278.0
.600---275.0

Ex
.100---59.4
.200---107.0
.300---138.0
.400---160.6
.500---180.2
.550---185.2
.600---190.1

Also, currently have the 306 cam, but am thinking about getting a custom grind.

What do you guys think? Overkill? Would the Eagle cast crank be ok.

Any other pointers?

 

I wouldn't use an eagle cast crank with that much power, the callies is not that expensive considering it's a qulity forged crank which should live a long life if all the clearances are good.
One thing you could revise is the rod length. you want more compression height than the 1.125 to be able to place the top ring lower on the piston to handle the 200 hp shot.

 

IMO, an aftermarket cast steel crank will hold-up just fine with occasional nitrous use, even with a 200 shot.

My scat 9000 was still in great shape after 5 years with a two stage kit 150/150, and the last year with approx 14 psi - all with 2 bolt mains.

 

I have the callies dragon slayer crank and not trying to talk you out of it but there is 1 minor problem. You said that you where going to use the stock flywheel but you cant with callies because it is a 2 piece rear main crank so the flywheel wont work on it and also is requires that you use a block adapter to convert from a 1 piece to a 2 piece and still run the stock oil pan and gasket. So you will have to buy a new flywheel and the block adapter which is allot the fidanza aluminum flywheel to mount a six speed to a 2 piece rear main is $429 and that adapter is like $100 I think. So good crank but allot more money to get it to work.

 

I have the callies dragon slayer crank and the stock flexplate and it's 1 piece rear seal. Dragon slayer is the series name and it can be had in 1-piece or 2-piece for small block, big block and even mopar. One bad thing about callies is that it takes for ever well 3 month in my case to get a crank.

 

yeah, the dragon slayer I listed is a 1 piece rear. I'm still wondering if that cast crank would hold....I'll be N/A 95% of the time. The spray will only be for the track (well atleast 99.9% of the time)

ssalah - what was your comment about the 1.125? I'm not getting what you wrote. Related to the crank being 5.85 instead of 6.0?? I actually am wondering if I have the wrong part #.

 

I'm refering to the compression height of the piston, that's the distance from the centerline of the pin to the piston top. It would have to be 1.125" for the 6.0" rod, comparing with a 5.85" the compression height (CH) would be 1.275". With the small CH pistons the piston ring must be place high near the combustion chamber where it's subjected to more heat.
On FI and N2O engines it's not recommended to have the piston ring up high.
As for the 5.85" or 6.0" for the crank, I think it's the clearencing of the crank throws to allow usage of such sizes. shorter rods require more clearance on the crank.

 

Those are all great parts... I totally agree with the piston choice but I wouldn't spend that kind of coin on rods and crank for that much power. I'd stick with the eagle you have, get some H beams from Scat or Eagle and run that 4 bolt since you are already planning on it.

Bret