LT1 Based Engine Tech 1993-1997 LT1/LT4 Engine Related

Need to replace A/C.. info needed

Old Jun 27, 2004 | 10:35 PM
  #1  
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Need to replace A/C.. info needed

My compressor and clutch are definetly gone. Its making horrific noises and clicking sounds. I had the a/c checked a couple weeks ago and it was full, but was still making noises just not as bad.

The clutch wont engage at all anymore and the noises are embarrasing lol...

What all do I need to replace if my compressor sent metal into the a/c system?

I want to do all this myself except recharging the system since I cant pull a vacuum.
Old Jun 28, 2004 | 05:32 AM
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You need to replace the compressor, orifice tube and dryer. The system must be flushed, vacuumed, oil refilled and of course recharged. The orifice tube, compressor and dryer need not be purchased at the dealer. However, don't waste your time with compressors from cheap auto parts stores like advance or autozone.
Old Jun 28, 2004 | 08:43 AM
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..... or just rip it all out and sell it like im going to do eventually
Old Jun 28, 2004 | 09:23 AM
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Not advisable in Texas in the summer but then I wouldn't do it in Georgia either
Old Jun 28, 2004 | 10:38 AM
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Thanks for all the info. Can I flush the system my self? What all is needed to flush the system?
Old Jun 28, 2004 | 11:53 AM
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There is a fluid that must be pressurized in one of those refillable cans that are pressurized with a compressor. Not sure if you could just pour it in and then blow through the system (with the dryer off of course). The flushing fluid is HIGHLY flammable though and best left to an expert.

I have learned there a some jobs that should be paid to experts so there is a warranty. The home mechanics take it in the shorts (sometimes) when they didn't do it right and then have to redo it. The AC components like compressors are expensive when you get the good ones and therefore they are expensive to replace.

If I were you I would remove the orifice tube (I have no idea where it is), remove the dryer and blow through every hose there is with no more than 40PSI compressed air. Once done, seal the all the hose ends with plastic and tape. Then take it somewhere and ask them exactly what they recommend. Ask them if they warranty the work and for how long. Find out if they have a policy of warrantying the parts they provide like compressors but they won't warranty any components brought in by the customer. Ask them if you having done some of the work, saves you any money like having already removed the compressor, dryer and or orifice tube.

Hope that helps
Dave
Old Jun 28, 2004 | 07:18 PM
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Not sure how different your car is from my 95 but my car doesnt have a orifice tube it has an expansion valve. I plan on replacing the compressor, dryer, and expansion valve. Going to figure out how to flush it myself and flush all the lines and condensor. I may replace the condensor too.

Dave, have you flushed your system once before or did u have a pro do it?

Anyone with personal experience in flushing out an a/c system?
Old Jun 28, 2004 | 08:56 PM
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Well I just learned something new. He is correct. Cars with thermal expansion valves do not have orifice tubes and vice versa. Our cars have thermal expansion valves. It is a good idea to change it when you do the system overhaul but be aware that they are attached to the evaporator.

I flushed my system when I replaced the compressor on our long since gone Amigo, since the compressor only blew its front seal. It did not eat itself and put metal bits in the system. I used a quick evaporating solvent at the time called Tricoroethane. I also blew out the evaporator of all it's oil and replaced the compressor and dryer. This was after I had done the stupid move and just replaced the seal in the compressor and replaced the dryer. The TXvalve was sticking and had to be replaced. When it stuck, the pressure went up so high, it blew the seal in the compressor that I had replaced.

Do it right and replace the TXvalve, the dryer and the compressor.
Old Jun 29, 2004 | 12:05 PM
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to reiderate. remove the freon. remove the compressor, drier and expantion valve. to flush the system you can use a good rubber end blow gun and a can of brake cleaner. the most important thing to clean is the condensor. if you wanna isolate it then remove both hoses going into it and spray brake cleaner in it and pump air tjrough it and hold a rag over the other end to catch teh crap. as you do this a few times hold your finger over the opening to biuld a little pressure then realease it to really pop the stuff out. repaeat utill it comes out clear and then flush in the opisite direction. then blow through the lines from the compresor to the drier and condensor while they are off to get them clean. then do the same thing to the evap core as you did the condensor.


after everything is clean start by pouring about 8 oucnes of PAG oil into the suction port (large) of the compressor. the bolt the compressor on using new seals. then repace the lines to the condensor using new seals and o rings making sure that you use a little compressor oil on the o rings. then bolt up the H valve (expantion valve) and finaly making sure it's last and has been sealed untill your ready for it, install the drier.

once you have everything bolted up take the compressor clutch and tun it clockwise by hand about 5-10 times (it might be hard to turn and will need a socket or a large pair of pilers.

Then you can have a shop do a vacuum rechagre and you should be all set.

expantion systems are harder to clean since there is no orifice tube to trap the metal and all you have to do is replace it and clean the condensor.

if you have any questions let us know. just remember to be carefull cause it's very easy to damaged the AC components as well as get hurt when dealing witha full system
Old Jul 2, 2004 | 02:10 AM
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Just finished up my A/C replacement about an hour ago. Took a good 5 hours for me alone to replace the compressor, expansion valve, and drier. Also flushed out my evaporator, condensor and all lines.

Man this was no doubt a PITA job lol... I just hope and pray that when i go get it recharged it does not leak!!! Owell after all the parts and utilites needed to replace my A/C im looking at under $300 so thats pretty damn good compared to $1000+

I'll give you guys an update if I saved a bunch of cash, or if I wasted a bunch of money with a leaky A/C job

-Robert
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