NEED INFO on Reliability of Stroker motors
#1
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Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: Rancho Cucamonga, California
Posts: 696
NEED INFO on Reliability of Stroker motors
Hey F-bods wass up Its me again Chris.
I have a ROD knock in my 94 Ram Air. Time for a rebuild. motor has 125K. I have done alot of research on LT1 rebuilds. ANd they all stick out. My plan is to use the nitrous again. So forge pistons is a for sure thing. Im stuck Between.
STOCK REBUILD.w/Forge internals
355 30 over with Forge internals
383 with forge INternals. <--the rebuild im leaning more towards cause im a Torque Lover
or
396
Now heres the question. WHICH rebuild IS THEE best Rebuild to Go.? and I want to know which rebuild is a better Motor for longivity. ONce the motor is rebuild. I do not want to go back in the motor.
PLease I NEED info to better MAKE my decision
Thanks
Chris
LT1CST@aol.com
I have a ROD knock in my 94 Ram Air. Time for a rebuild. motor has 125K. I have done alot of research on LT1 rebuilds. ANd they all stick out. My plan is to use the nitrous again. So forge pistons is a for sure thing. Im stuck Between.
STOCK REBUILD.w/Forge internals
355 30 over with Forge internals
383 with forge INternals. <--the rebuild im leaning more towards cause im a Torque Lover
or
396
Now heres the question. WHICH rebuild IS THEE best Rebuild to Go.? and I want to know which rebuild is a better Motor for longivity. ONce the motor is rebuild. I do not want to go back in the motor.
PLease I NEED info to better MAKE my decision
Thanks
Chris
LT1CST@aol.com
#3
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: Rancho Cucamonga, California
Posts: 696
ttt
Hey Thanks for that Reply. ALSO
I was thinkin about goin with 355 forge internals. And thinkin about a ATI BLower. IF I were to go with a 10-14psi Blower. what does my COmpression have to be at. ANd what kinda of BOttom end set up SHOULD I get done to withstand the power.
Thanks
CHris
Hey Thanks for that Reply. ALSO
I was thinkin about goin with 355 forge internals. And thinkin about a ATI BLower. IF I were to go with a 10-14psi Blower. what does my COmpression have to be at. ANd what kinda of BOttom end set up SHOULD I get done to withstand the power.
Thanks
CHris
#4
Blown motors are not as reliable as NA motors.
They dont last nearly as long because of the piston rings wear down faster.
My old motor had 95K miles on it and the compression was still alright.
They dont last nearly as long because of the piston rings wear down faster.
My old motor had 95K miles on it and the compression was still alright.
#5
well since you're going to use dope and you want to have a forged bottom end you could go 396 and it would cost the same as a 383 BUT you would have short pistons with a 6" rod. which is bad for dope motors. but if you used a 383 and a 6" rod you could have taller pistons but not much and use a 6" rod. if you wanted to go 396 you could get away with a 5.85 rod i'm pretty sure and still have a little room to play around with the rings. if it was me i'd go 383 but i'd probably use a 5.85 rod and a fairly tall piston with the rings set lower. but like i say its up to you. and get pistons made for dope is my other piece of advice along with the best bearings you can get your hands on(nitrous beats them silly, at least the amounts i would use do).
#6
For bottom internals i would get 4 bolt main spalyed, as for cr I would run some where in the 9 because of all the boost. But if this car is a daliy driver I would not boost that much. I would not have a boost more that 9psi with 9si you could run stock or near stock cr.
#7
i'd get a motor from www.cmotorsports.com
they are definatly the best at what they do IMHO.
and you cant argue with the price at all.
if you want to do it yourself,
they have a nice GP going right now.
I would go with a 383 for cost effectiveness...
I'd get either of their packages.
you need forged rods and pistons.
you dont need a forged crank.
a scat9000 will be fine.
good luck
Email/IM me if you need any help.
they are definatly the best at what they do IMHO.
and you cant argue with the price at all.
if you want to do it yourself,
they have a nice GP going right now.
I would go with a 383 for cost effectiveness...
I'd get either of their packages.
you need forged rods and pistons.
you dont need a forged crank.
a scat9000 will be fine.
good luck
Email/IM me if you need any help.
#8
that forged crank thing depends trey at least imho. when he says he wants to build a stroker and he's going to use dope on it i automaticly think 300hp pills or bigger and a direct port system, i mean why not build if for it even if you dont have the rest of it setup for it or even have the dp system yet. better to do it while its easy than tear it apart later. also a forged scat crank is only $200 more than a cast one and a 383 crank is the same as a 396 when it comes to pricing for forged from what i've seen.
on a side note they owe you a big check over there at cmotorsports because you are their top salesman:P
on a side note they owe you a big check over there at cmotorsports because you are their top salesman:P
#9
Originally posted by WS6T3RROR
that forged crank thing depends trey at least imho. when he says he wants to build a stroker and he's going to use dope on it i automaticly think 300hp pills or bigger and a direct port system, i mean why not build if for it even if you dont have the rest of it setup for it or even have the dp system yet. better to do it while its easy than tear it apart later. also a forged scat crank is only $200 more than a cast one and a 383 crank is the same as a 396 when it comes to pricing for forged from what i've seen.
on a side note they owe you a big check over there at cmotorsports because you are their top salesman:P
that forged crank thing depends trey at least imho. when he says he wants to build a stroker and he's going to use dope on it i automaticly think 300hp pills or bigger and a direct port system, i mean why not build if for it even if you dont have the rest of it setup for it or even have the dp system yet. better to do it while its easy than tear it apart later. also a forged scat crank is only $200 more than a cast one and a 383 crank is the same as a 396 when it comes to pricing for forged from what i've seen.
on a side note they owe you a big check over there at cmotorsports because you are their top salesman:P
:::crosses fingers and runs to mailbox looking for 12 bolt:::
i think hes spraying a 100 shot
#10
I think you should look at your budget and then decide what to go with.
If you have the budget for a killer rebuild, why not go for the gusto? If you are on a VERY tight budget either stick with a 355 with stock (turned) crank and forged H-beams and pistons. If you are on a tight budget, why not try a 383 with cast crank (Check out the GP section, cmotorsports has a great deal on a 383 rotating assembly for just over $1K)
If you have a bigger budget you might want to look at a fully forged 383/396 and everything that is going to have to go with a strong stroker buildup.
If you have the budget for a killer rebuild, why not go for the gusto? If you are on a VERY tight budget either stick with a 355 with stock (turned) crank and forged H-beams and pistons. If you are on a tight budget, why not try a 383 with cast crank (Check out the GP section, cmotorsports has a great deal on a 383 rotating assembly for just over $1K)
If you have a bigger budget you might want to look at a fully forged 383/396 and everything that is going to have to go with a strong stroker buildup.
#11
Originally posted by GhostZ
I think you should look at your budget and then decide what to go with.
If you have the budget for a killer rebuild, why not go for the gusto? If you are on a VERY tight budget either stick with a 355 with stock (turned) crank and forged H-beams and pistons. If you are on a tight budget, why not try a 383 with cast crank (Check out the GP section, cmotorsports has a great deal on a 383 rotating assembly for just over $1K)
If you have a bigger budget you might want to look at a fully forged 383/396 and everything that is going to have to go with a strong stroker buildup.
I think you should look at your budget and then decide what to go with.
If you have the budget for a killer rebuild, why not go for the gusto? If you are on a VERY tight budget either stick with a 355 with stock (turned) crank and forged H-beams and pistons. If you are on a tight budget, why not try a 383 with cast crank (Check out the GP section, cmotorsports has a great deal on a 383 rotating assembly for just over $1K)
If you have a bigger budget you might want to look at a fully forged 383/396 and everything that is going to have to go with a strong stroker buildup.
seriously though
those guys helped me sooooo much, i cant help but speak well about them. I do the same for PCMforLess.com. Thunderacing too- I've only placed one order with them, but when someone asks about them or asks something like "where should i get OVC wires" i say TR.
PCMforless has spread like wildfire here. I would always drop their name when they were less popular and i saw a HTPP or Ed Wright post. I dont even get a chance to drop their name anymore, 8 bazillion people will say PCMforless 3 sec after the post was made, no need to add i'm sure they got the point.
Lloyd too, he helped me so much. he sent me pics and advice when my buddy was porting my heads for me. I never paid that guy a dime for anything and he talked to me for an hour on the phone giving advice.
Likewise, i badmouth SLP and racenet every chance i get
stupid Racenet
$850 order, they send me fuct $30 rocker studs and stiff me on them and call me a liar!
Last edited by treyZ28; 02-20-2003 at 11:00 PM.
#12
I have a side deal with cmotorsports....had to send them an email and tell them you were slacking.
I'll do the same thing...Bryan at www.pcmforless.com, Midwest torque converters, Hooker LT's, etc....
I'll do the same thing...Bryan at www.pcmforless.com, Midwest torque converters, Hooker LT's, etc....
#13
Originally posted by GhostZ
I have a side deal with cmotorsports....had to send them an email and tell them you were slacking.
I'll do the same thing...Bryan at www.pcmforless.com, Midwest torque converters, Hooker LT's, etc....
I have a side deal with cmotorsports....had to send them an email and tell them you were slacking.
I'll do the same thing...Bryan at www.pcmforless.com, Midwest torque converters, Hooker LT's, etc....
#14
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