okay here it is .... I have a CC305 cam with Com. Motorsport springs ( good to .600) and pro-form 1.6 RR's.... I broke #5 exhaust rocker stud, replaced all with new ARP's 75 miles later the proform RR pops of the #4 intake, shreds the rocker up on each side, so I buy new Stainless 1.6 RR ( pro-mag knock offs ) another 75 miles or so go buy and the #3 intake RR pops off and does the same thing.

Any Ideas??????

I have tried the #1/#6 top dead center RR adjustment only.I took my time and went step by step all times I have adjusted them.

I don't know the poundage on the springs, but a guy said it sounds like a spring problem ??? or something internal since it happened on different areas of the valves

 

I think you just are adjusting them wrong.

Do it with the engine running and the valve cover off.

Lossen each rocker arm one at a time until they start to clack. Slowly and evenly tighten it until the "Clacking" stops. Once this stops you are at zero lash. Now go your preload. Since you are having problems with it, I would say go a little further than normal on your lifter preload. I would crank each one another at least 1/2 turn past zero lash. And once you do it, tighten the poly lock. With the poly lock tightened down ( The middle allen screw) then turn the adjuster nut back to ensure that the poly lock is TIGHT. Maybe yours are just comign undone. If you dont really crank the poly locks down and then back the adjuster nut off to snug it up, they CAN come loose.

 

I was going to try to do them while running last time but with Loudmouth exhaust and my throtle body i cant hear a thing clacking

 

With this old farts hearing I can hear the clacking with it uncapped.

 

screw doing it with the engine is running....lt1's have limited space to the back 2 cylinders and that gets hot under there. I've done the #1 and #6 TDC methods probably 20 times with the engine off and have never been more than a minor adjustment off on just a couple occasions.

 

So do you guys think its all in the adjusting or do you think it is in the springs??

 

Have you checked the spring installed height?

 

Same thing happened to me and it caused a valve to drop and almost toast a brand new short block. I'm running Crower RRs---had to get a couple new ones to replace the chewed up ones. These are Self Adjusting and I believe that the risk is greater with the SA ones if you don;t have them adjusted correctly or your valve traion is out of contro.

Had the mechanice do three things to----hopefully---resolve the problem:

1. I was using +.050 push rods, which the original mechanic apparently didn't have any problems with, but my subsequent mechanic replaced them with the stock length, saying that the geometry was off.
2. Had my spring replaced---my other springs were finne for the 1.6 RRs, but apparently were marginally strong enough for my baby cam---replaced them with the ones recommmeded by the Cam Spec Card.

3. I requested a 1/2 turn past 0 lash, but my mechanic wound up turning them closer to 1 full turn to quiet them down.

So I don't know what happened for my RRs to loosen up and move off the stems--including beating the valve stem keepers off the stems causing the vavle to drop on the pistionl, but I have a whole new respect for gettinng the valve train controlled which includes the "correct" springs, and geometry.

So if your spring pressures and installed height are marginal, I woul make certain that you take care of that situation pronto---and then make sure your adjustment is done correctly. JMHO

 

And...when you post make sure your spelling is close before you submit.