ok here's the deal, I am in process of doing heads, intake and cam and my question is I have just replaced my water pump about 6 months ago, the guy thats doing my install says that i need to go with a electric water pump and a get a cheaper timing chain, but i wanted to know everyones thoughts was. so please give mr some options......

 

you can run the 87-up roller block timing set with EWP......its a win win so go for it.

be sure to grind the inside of the cover so the chain doesent rub

 

That decision should be up yo you, not the guy who is doing the install. There are some horsepower gains to be made with the use of an E.W.P. and you can then use a non-LT1 timing set, but it obviously will cost you some additional money, not to mention you typically need to machine or grind the inside of the T/C cover to clearence it in order to make it fit as mdacton stated. There's nothing wrong with running the standard LT-1 timing set and the mechanically driven W.P. except that it takes a few HP to turn it.

 

Looks to me in the long run would be cheaper since the lt1 timing chains are so expensive? Couldnt you run a Meziere water pump and also free up 5-8 hp?

 

The stock timing set is SOLID and cheaper than the gen 1 chains most people recommend.

IMO get a new stock set and keep the mechanical WP. Yes the electric free up some power and provide adequate cooling but the sudden total failure mode of them IMO is a little risky on the street especially if you are not real comfortable doing your own wrenching.

 

So your saying that I just need to buy a new stock timing set..........

 

I would get the LT4 roller chain.It is expensive,but I feel its worth it.It is a quality piece.You are spending a lot and want good parts.The stock piece is kind of loose fitting.I dont recommend a electric WP.

 

This is basically what I did with a Cloyes Hex-A-Just, I didn't have to grind the Timing cover though, Maybe I was lucky or maybe it depends on the manufacturer of the timing set. It really is the best setup IMHO!

 

Don't forget the 96 has the crankshaft position sensor / reluctor wheel combo.

You'll have to take that into account when you do the timing chain.

 

with the cam swap....I would get the to tune that out when tuning the computer. Just imo you really don't need it......if you have a car at that level of performance you should be able to keep up with it, I think the crank sensor is only good to detect misfires

 

if your asking for opinions then mine is stock/stock

there was a thread a while ago about the stock timing set breaking and i dont remember one person with a failure that was not due to normal wear and tear, i debated this myself when doing my rebuild and this is what i decided

 

Everybody says the LT4 chain is so much better but then when those of us who pay attention to FACTs start asking about broken stock chains the replies are VERY VERY few given the shear number in use. I have heard of more LT4/ED timing set failures than I have stock chain failures.

If you want the stock chain too fit tighter Cloyes makes an oversized crank sprocket for about $20 and the stock chain and cam sprocket are each available seperate too for about $20 apiece last I checked.

The myth of the stock timing sets weakness is just that a myth.

 

So you say basically stay with the stock set right

 

Yes, works fine for me.

 

Back from the dead, but can you find me these parts at those prices? I'm having a helluva time locating the correct pieces for a decent price!

93 Camaro