That low at idle would confirm what they told you.

I recommend a short block or complete engine as apposed to either you or someone else rebuilding it.

Here's a good choice.
CHEVY 350 96-01 LT1 SHORT BLOCK: High Performance Engines | ATK Custom Built Crate Engines

You could contact a Jasper engine retailer.

 

25psi at hot idle I would not consider to be low, especially with thinner weight oil. GM says 10 psi per 1k rpms so at 700 rpms 25 is more than enough with the mileage on it. My 2 LTx motors haven't had that much in years or the past 100k miles. The GN has never had more than 15 at hot idle. Do you have a sound clip posted of the tap/tick/knock?

 

25 psi at hot idle is not low at all. matter of fact i dont remember the last LT fbody i was in that had more than that

 

I agree, 25lbs with a hot engine at idle is normal. The Haynes manual states the oil pressue minimum as:

6 psi min @ 1000 RPM
18 psi min @ 2000 RPM
24 psi min @ 4000 RPM

 

Huh? 25psi at idle is low?

 

That link would have me worried, they list the LT1 as 96-01 for starters, and the compression ratio is lower than stock, so you install their short block and have less hp than a stocker even though it is a 355

 

They don't actually list a compression ration, they just state what it would be with various combustion chamber volumes. Our heads are 55cc stock so it's higher than their listings.

The picture is a gen 1 small block so don't bother looking for clues on the piton heads.

 

I found a regular sbc motor. Its a 327 freshly rebuild intake to pan for 1400. What is all involved in putting a regular sbc motor in place of an lt1. Does trans fit up, do you need another wiring harness, do they bolt in using the same motor mounts. Is there a link telling all about this or what. Im not worried about inspections I just know older motors are easier for me to work on and easier to find. Price wise I know they can run you about the same price. Any help would be nice at this point.

 

1400 will buy you a crank kit, bearings, rings, gaskets, oil pump and the minimum machine work if you shop around. I suggest building the lt1.

 

aftermarket cast cranks are weaker than stock and $200piston no better than stock.

If you need an engine on a budget then a junkyard or used engine from a fellow enthusiast would be better than a cheap rebuild.

 

If you're worried about your engine grinding itself up, you can always do an oil change and see how much glitter comes out the drain hole and cut the filter open and inspect that. You can have your oil analyzed to see if the bearing material is in it.

 

I agree with caprice. Lt1's are all over craigslist and eBay and Mautofied. It would be easier on you and your wallet. But I would atleast plasti-gauge a rod and main. Just by inspecting the bearings alone you will know if the engine is worth anything. I kinda wished I had gone this route instead of building mine.

 

Way more headaches than you are probably willing to deal with.

 

Just have a quick question. I was told I have a bad rod bearing. Can I tear motor down and just replace bearings or no. I was told I could get crank checked and if its still good just replace the bearings. Is this true. and what makes a bearing go bad. I was going to replace the rod bearings, the pickup, oil pump and pan gasket. Im trying to do this as cheap as possible cause we dont have the money for what I want. I found a lt1 motor on craigslist for 500.00. He said it has 69,000 miles on it and he pulled it out of the car and it was sitting for 3 years.