Need help on some lt1 engine building
Need help on some lt1 engine building
I just recently bought a 93 z28 that has a 97 lt1 engine in it . Motor already has headers on it and the stock aluminum heads on it . I'm going to rebuild the engine but need so help on some good combination . Was thinking about a 355 at first but now I'm thinking more like a 383 with a 200 wet shot . I'm aiming towards 7.0 or 6.80 in the 8th mile on 93 octane . If anybody has all ready reach these goals or no exactly what it will take to get my car to such a achievement please feel free to send me some info . Or if any parts for sale I'm interested in gears , engine parts and many more . Thanks
Re: Need help on some lt1 engine building
To achieve 6.8 in the 1/8th with a full weight car you're going to need about 650 flywheel horsepower. And then you'll need all the supporting chassis upgrades to get that power to the ground. Start by doing a search to see what folks are already doing and also consider giving Llyod Elliot a call for a heads/cam package that will set you up for your goals. Here's a link: http://elliottsportworks.com/
Good luck!
Good luck!
Re: Need help on some lt1 engine building
A 383 with 200 shot will easily do 6.8-7.0 if the rest of the car is sorted. The key that level is more about traction than raw power.
Auto or manual? If auto, you'll need a new converter at minimum. If manual you'll need a good clutch and 12 bolt rear axle at minimum.
200 shot, you could probably get away with a cast stroker crank, but I'd certainly do forged rods and pistons. A heads and cam package to take advantage of the extra cubes is also smart. And dont forget about the machine shop costs (2 bolt or splayed 4 bolt, clearancing for stroker, recip. assembly balancing, hone, align hone, etc).
And you'll need an upgraded torque arm, sticky tires, and any number of suspension upgrades if you want it consistent.
Auto or manual? If auto, you'll need a new converter at minimum. If manual you'll need a good clutch and 12 bolt rear axle at minimum.
200 shot, you could probably get away with a cast stroker crank, but I'd certainly do forged rods and pistons. A heads and cam package to take advantage of the extra cubes is also smart. And dont forget about the machine shop costs (2 bolt or splayed 4 bolt, clearancing for stroker, recip. assembly balancing, hone, align hone, etc).
And you'll need an upgraded torque arm, sticky tires, and any number of suspension upgrades if you want it consistent.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
isimplyexist
Car Audio and Electronics
2
Mar 25, 2004 08:06 PM



