It sounds like your PCM is getting a false load signal from a sensor. Check the following sensors:
02
MAF
MAP
Restricted exhaust
Vacuum leak
Any of these items will cause the car to die because the PCM is not understanding the current conditions because the sensor(s) have a false condition. If you have fuel, you have spark. I don't believe your problem is caused by fuel or spark.
Ray

 

I just replaced the maf with an unported one and cleaned it off with electrical parts cleaner and gently brushed everything off so it was clean. At the moment it is unplugged, as for the rest of the sensors how do I check if they are bad... I hooked datamaster up to the pcm (even swapped pcm's) and there are no trouble codes... ?

 

If there are no DTC's, then you most likely have restricted exhaust or a vacuum leak.

 

FYI, Carb cleaner is mostly water and doesn't burn. It will kill a running engine.

You need to use some gas, or a small amount of Ether starting fluid.

You might have already solved the problem by now, but If you haven't you may want to revist the fuel issue.

 

I guess Ill drop the exhaust, my friend had the idea of taking off the plugs I have in the headers for the air system but I dont think it would do much through those tiny holes so Im gonna try and drop the exhaust next. I dont think its a vacuum leak but ill triple check all the lines and such. Thanks again for all teh help guys

ALSO I would like to know how to tell if one of the o2 sensors is bad since I did blow out the cats, or really how to tell if any of the sensors listed are bad? I think it was running very lean since the plugs were getting a little snowy if that could have done it...

 

Well I dropped the exhaust and nothing changed, so damnit. Ill try to jack the car up and pull all the plug wires down so I can accurately test them, anyone know what gap the spark should jump as a minimum for the LT1's igniniton system, the back of the box the tester came in only listed the distributorless like northstar and ls1 and the HEI system. Also say I had an HEI setup and the minimum gap it should consistantly jump was 1", if it would only jump 3/4" would that make the car totally not run at all? Also would the opti have any effect on spark strength?

 

Try a new opti.

 

I might try a delteq in the end but can anyone answer the questions I just posted about the post before?

 

My car was in a similar situation.
Car wouldnt start but I had fuel and spark.
No SES light.

Turns out the bearing inside the opti was messed up.
Changed the opti and it starts up fine.

 

So do you think a delteq would have helped your situation? I didnt know there were bearings in an opti either, man Im glad I live with my girlfriend or Ide be screwed for transportation lol. Thanks for the advice/guidance everyone!

 

The delteq still use the optical part on the optispark.
That was the part that's messed up.
So I don't think changing to a delteq would've helped me.

 

oh so your optical part of the opti was messed up, well Im sure a timing light would tell me if that was messed up.

 

About to order an opti and came up with a new possibility, what about a bad ground, would it cause all of the exact symptoms I described? I checked them and they all look clean and are tight atleast the couple I saw, mainly the one coming off of the coil, any others I should look at?

 

Whatever I ordered a new opti and gaskets, so Im going to start putting it on but im wondering if I just need to take the crank pulley off or if the damper has to come off too? It also came with 2 gaskets is that all I will need, seems like there will be more..? Also does anyone know any good write-ups on how to replace it?

 

here's a pretty good write up: http://www.streetillusionsracing.com.../opti/opti.htm

What gaskets are you talking about? Water pump gaskets?